Glass Beads

by Bina Shaji Kurup

One way to ensure your beads last for a longer while is to confirm that they are Fire-polished. This is a technique whereby beads are first encrusted with the required coating and then they are pulled through high temperatures, melting the surface of the glass bead ensuring the coating bonds with the glass making it permanent.

Glass beads are colorful , vibrant and have a history dating back to more than 5000 years. The tiny ray of light captured and reflected by glass makes for eye-catching vibrancy. They are usually available in all the colors one can imagine. Since glass is malleable, these beads come in dozens of different shapes – from perfect round to long ovals to animal shapes. Glass beads come in every size and several finishes like metallic polish, lacquered, iridescent and more. There are even imitation pearls made of glass and glass beads which look like stone beads. And while one may think that glass beads are cheap – there are glass beads which are expensive too – especially the crystal beads.

Glass Beads Treatments

In order to give glass beads attractive colors, they are treated to different coatings to achieve distinctive looks. Some beads have surface coatings – where colors are sprayed onto the beads after the beads are made, these polishes can be metallic, plastic or even fluorescent. Other beads are coated with colors in the centre of the bead (called Lined Beads) – the centre coating in the bead can be erased by the thread used to string the beads after a period of time. Glass beads which have silver lining at the centre too, after a while becomes black. Since glass measures low on the MOHS scale, it can easily be scratched leaving the beads ugly and ruining the effect of the piece.

Fire Polishing of Glass beads

One way to ensure your beads last for a longer while is to confirm that they are Fire-polished. This is a technique whereby beads are first encrusted with the required coating and then they are pulled through high temperatures, melting the surface of the glass bead ensuring the coating bonds with the glass making it permanent (although some coating materials can still be removed easily just by peeling it with your fingernails) This method is also used to add shine to plain glass beads. The disadvantage of using Fire-polished beads is that the melted bead may not be smooth and will have a grainy finish, which can give a unusual look to jewellery or make it look absolutely amateurish – this will largely depend on what design and what ornament you are planning to make. In fact fire-polished glass beads should be used for making economical beaded jewellery, which you wear for a while, get bored and make a new piece.

Formulated glass beads

Several types of formulated glass which are heavier, more resistant to heat, are used to make glass beads – Dichroic glass, Furnace Glass, Borosilicate glass (glass used to manufacture microwave safe containers) lead glass (used to manufacture crystal glass beads with facets and high brilliance), rod glass, sheet glass, even small fine colored rods, dots and glass dust etc. Regular glass you see on windows is not normally used to make glass beads because it does not have any additives to make it strong enough to withstand the entire process of making beads.

Choosing glass bead jewellery can be a mind-boggling task since there are dozens of different beads – right from crystal, lamp worked, seed, Dichroic etc. Made of sand and soda mixed with lime, glass has captivated the imagination of artisans all over the world – Asian countries, Italians and more recently the Americans. Although the essential ingredients are the same, there are several techniques and types of glass to make the beads. The method, type of glass and the finish determines the final look of the bead and its price.

Glass seed beads, extremely common, are made by several countries – Czech, Japan, India, France and Italy to name a few. These beads are usually tiny and come in a range of sizes ( all small sizes usually less than 6mm) and different shapes. The Japanese variety is more expensive than the ones from India since the finish is superior, beads are uniform and the colors are durable. Czech beads are slightly imperfect and this flaw gives jewellery a look that bespeaks character. Seed beads are great for delicate beaded jewellery and are widely available both at stores and on the web.

Dichroic Glass beads

Dichroic glass beads are essentially beads made of Dichroic glass. Here glass is coated with several thin layers – either metal coatings or others in a vacuum. These beads have the ability to reflect and transmit light giving rise to a beautiful play of colors. These beads are more expensive than the regular fire-polished beads because the Dichroic glass manufacturing process is more complex and requires specialized machinery to achieve the reflecting ( colors seen in front ) and transmitting (the mirror-image or opposite colors of the reflected colors) effect on glass.

So how does glass become into beads ? First the glass is heated till it becomes malleable. Then it is either wound around a metal wire (Wound Glass Beads) or the molten glass is drawn out with a bubble at the centre to serve as the hole (Drawn Glass Beads – Seed beads, Chevron beads are made in this method). Others have moulds with needles at the centre to make the hole, hot glass rods are pressed into them and the needles make the hole at the centre (Pressed or Molded Beads). Pressed beads can have different shapes depending on the molds. The most difficult method is the blown glass method, where hot glass is placed at one end of the blower and then manually blown into to make the bead.

Lampwork beads

The popular Lampwork beads are made by the wound glass method – so called because traditionally lamps were used to heat the glass surface – are glass beads which are first made by winding molten glass around metal wires and then fine shards of colored glass are fused onto it either during the winding process or later by re-heating the glass beads. Other examples of Wound Glass beads are Mosaic beads (several small pieces of colored glass are fused together to get beautiful, exotic look glass beads) Millefiori beads have layers of colored glass coated in sections over the bead giving rise to unusual patterns.

The hot beads are then rolled in hot sand to make them even or re-heated to coat them. Sometimes metallic dust or even enamel powder is used to coat the hot beads and even paint is applied as a coating to make the beads eye-catching.

Whether you like them smooth like silk or with uneven edges, glass beads are great when you need a casual look without spending too much

Metal Beads

by Bina Shaji Kurup

Metals beads are extremely popular in creating beaded jewellery. They can be segregated into precious metals – gold, platinum and silver and the cheaper non-precious metals like brass, copper and pewter or cast. Although the beads themselves can be plain, carved, with inlay work and in myriad shapes, the metal beads can be either hollow or solid and plated or non-plated beads.

Both Brass and Copper beads are available in several finishes – bright, matte, dull, and slightly tarnished for a rustic effect. Varnish is applied to metal beads to give them an antique, oxidized look.

Base metals are cheaper than the precious metals and have a distinct look of their own. Electroplating, gilting, and other techniques are often applied to coat the base-metal beads with gold and silver. Some base metals are able to take coatings easier than the other and although plated beads are cheaper than the pure gold or silver beads, knowing what metal is under the plating will help you make a decision whether you want to buy nickel-silver gold plated beads or pewter gilted beads. Each metal has its unique appeal and it is better to buy beads which are plated with a metal matching the color of the base bead, so when some beads lose their coating sooner than the other beads in the strand only close examination will show the difference.

Beads are mostly electroplated with gold or silver. The thickness of the plating determines the price of the bead and the plating thickness is measured in mils. Gold or silver overlay (also called Filling) work is also used to coat the beads. This is normally a thicker layer than plating and uses 14 karat or lesser gold for coating. Gilting is a process where gold polish or gold color is applied like paint onto the metal bead leaving a very thin layer of gold color on the bead..

Plated beads are cheaper than regular precious metal beads but their life is shorter and plating are never permanent. Most plated beads lose their color after a while and some even turn black due to the oxidization of the base metal bead. Brass, Copper and pewter take on coatings easily whereas nickel, steel, aluminum do not take on the coatings very well – meaning that a nickel bead which is gold plated will lose its shine faster than a Brass gold plated bead.

A little care in choosing beads can help your metal beaded jewellery last a little longer. For example, a brass gold-plated bead will not look too bad even after the gold plating wears off since the metal under the gold is a bright yellow. Similarly, a silver coated pewter bead will look like tarnished silver since pewter has a silvery color.

Another exciting metal plated jewellery option is the attractive Cloisonné beads – metal coated with glass or enamel and sometimes coated again with gold. These pretty beads are available as transparent, opaque, matte and several other finishes.

Plated bead jewellery looks genuine but needs care. Pewter, Brass, Copper, Silver with the exception of gold – all metals tarnish and blacken over time and the environmental conditions contribute to a faster or slower oxidization process. Care should be taken while polishing too since a rough hand can remove or chip the plating or gilt. And ammonia can dull the finish of plated beads. Metal beads are great for the antique look and manufacturers often darken parts of the bead to give an authentic look. Brass, copper and pewter allow for even plating unlike the other metals which maybe left with a patchy surface (that shows up in natural and sometimes artificial light) and these beads will lose their gold or silver appearance faster. Some plated beads are coated with varnish which slows the tarnish process considerably.

Be sure to check all the beads on your plated beaded jewellery regularly as some beads may lose their shine, be chipped or show the tarnish after a period of time. Most important, if you are allergic to metals like nickel then it is best to stay away from plated or metal beaded jewellery since most non-precious metal beaded jewellery contains some amount of nickel or make sure you inform the manufacturer of the allergy and buy products that are safe for you to use.

Crystal Beads

by Bina Shaji Kurup

Crystal is a term with dual meanings – one crystal refers to the naturally occurring colorless quartz (also called a semi-precious stone), which is termed as crystal quartz and the other is man-made crystal which is the subject of this article.

Crystal, sparkling with the effervescence of light dancing at its surface and a crystal bead captures this sparkle beautifully, flashing as light strikes its surface. Crystal is a term with dual meanings – one crystal refers to the naturally occurring colorless quartz (also called a semi-precious stone), which is termed as crystal quartz and the other is man-made crystal which is the subject of this article.

Crystal beads few facts

Crystal is mostly glass mixed with lead – the magic ingredient that gives crystal its sparkle. Lead makes the glass heavier and allows the glass to be cut and given facets, making it glint and twinkle – like a diamond. The sparkle of crystal is due to its higher refractory index which refers to the ability of a surface to bend light and the refraction index differs for each gemstone and other reflecting surfaces. Crystal beads reflect light from outside as well as from the inside of the crystal, making light refract more times so the crystal surface appears flash when it is moved even a little. Ordinary glass has a lower refractory index but when lead or lead oxide is added to it the refraction index of the glass increases and gives crystal its spark.

Crystal beads History

Crystal was made for the first time in the late 1600’s by George Ravenscroft and after much trial and error, he discovered the magic ingredient – lead which when added to glass made it stronger, harder, more malleable and of a much better quality than ordinary glass. Thus crystal came into being. It is used to manufacture not only jewellery but also plenty of home décor accessories and crystals decorate clothes too. Crystal beads (called Rhinestones) have been popular even before the Victorian times and were sometimes more expensive than real gemstones. The nobility wore crystal jewellery set in gold and good crystalware was a sign of good breeding. Even today, crystals are synonymous with class and elegance.

Swarovski Crystals

Of course, the price of crystal beads is considerably higher than ordinary glass beads but it is a small price to pay for the sparkle and luminescence of authentic crystal beads. Earlier, crystal beads were made manually but after Daniel Swarovski (of the famed Swarovski brand of crystals) created a machine to cut crystal, the company became the most well-known crystal manufacturer in the world. Although Crystal beads are manufactured by several companies throughout the world, the best crystal beads, the most popular and possibly the most expensive are made by Swarovski. And rightly so, since the crystal beads from Swarovski are the most perfect and accurately faceted beads – making every bead dance and shine like a diamond.
The revolutionary machine created by Daniel Swarovski ensures crystal beads are cut or faceted so that each facet is perfect. Each design has different facets, giving beads various shapes. The crystals can be cut, just like diamonds and each crystal bead is an exact duplicate of the other, this is a big advantage for designers who create jewellery and can be assured of uniformity throughout the piece. Computers are used to calculate statistics like the light reflection, slope, and other factors which give the beads their perfection and beauty. Other than Swarovski, Czech machine cut crystal beads and beads from Austria too are of a high quality but flaunting genuine Swarovski crystals makes a classy fashion statement.

How crystal beads are manufactured?

Each manufacturer has a recipe for making crystal and the amount of lead oxide added differs from as low as 10% (Fine Crystal) to more than 25% (Fully leaded crystal). Swarovski mixes almost 34% – making it the heaviest crystal bead. A couple of medium sized crystal beads of Swarovski can often weigh almost one gram. So, the easiest way to identify a genuine crystal bead would be to weigh it and the real crystal beads are sure to be heavier than the fakes.
Dyes or chemicals are added to glass to give crystal its colors and there are beautiful color palettes which make crystal beads look just like real gemstones – Purples to look like Amethysts, Green to match emeralds, yellows, pinks and plenty more. Swarovski especially has replicated actual gemstone colors in crystal beads which look like real gemstones from afar. Crystal beads have several finishes and the prices vary depending on the finish and color and manufacturer of the beads.

Crystals – Buying tips

Some rules to remember while buying crystal beads is to make sure there are no bubbles inside the bead, the bead should be heavy, the rim of the hole should be clean and preferably thin and the bicone area should be more transparent than the rim. Good quality beads should have a uniform color without scratches or patches on the surface and most important, when you turn the crystal beaded piece it should flash and glint as a sure sign of superior crystal beads.

Caring Tips

If your crystal jewellery becomes dull, polish it with a soft cloth and avoid using strong detergents, chemicals or hot water to clean your crystal beaded jewellery. Store your crystal jewellery separately and remember it is after all glass and can break if dropped or treated harshly. Crystal beaded jewellery is for occasional use and extreme heat, body sprays, perfumes etc can damage the delicate crystal.

Crystal beads add a touch of panache to any piece of jewellery, so go out and buy yourself some shining, glinting pieces of glass which will flash like diamonds!

Jewelry Manufacturing

by Ms Nandita Ray

Today jewelry is crafted using the traditional method of simple tools and skilled fingers to modern tools and hi tech means. The flow of ideas and the wide range of designs offer this choice. Mass production or made to order is the other factor in choosing a particular method of production. Here is an attempt to bring to the reader a comprehensive idea about jewelry manufacturing.

I am sure many marvel at the beauty and workmanship of their favorite piece of jewellery. Many questions might spring to mind, wondering how the delicate design was created or the gem set? What makes the jewellery strong? Who are these artisans who wield their art with such aplomb creating intricate piece de resistance’ with impudence? Making jewellery is definitely not a cake walk. Time, technology and experience have contributed to strengthening the art of jewellery manufacturing. When early man began wearing jewellery fashioned out of stones, bones or any attractive material that caught the eye he hammered, pounded, chiseled and rubbed to get the required shape and size. As man matured and ideas grew, new techniques developed to capture his imagination in a world of gold, gems and glitter. From simple discs to 3D designs were woven with the help of tools and technology. Skill still remains the most important tool and no goldsmith worth his salt and valued for his craftsmanship lacks in this department!

Today jewellery is crafted using the traditional method of simple tools and skilled fingers to modern tools and hi tech means. The flow of ideas and the wide range of designs offer this choice. Mass production or made to order is the other factor in choosing a particular method of production. Here is an attempt to bring to the reader a comprehensive idea about jewellery manufacturing.

Methods used in Jewelry manufacturing

Methods that are typically used to make jewellery from gold and silver and its alloys are Investment Casting, Die casting, cuttle fish casting and hand fabrication. Many jewelers use CAD/CAM to make jewellery. CAD computer aided designs and CAM i.e. computer aided manufacturing to reproduce a model piece of jewellery that can be mass produced. Making jewellery requires knowledge and expertise in gold smithing, stonecutting, engraving, mold making, fabrication, wax carving, lost wax casting, electroplating, forging, and polishing. These are the various steps needed to make jewellery. The first step in making a detailed piece is making of a mold.

Mold

Jewellery making begins with a mold. A mold is the exact and perfect replica of the piece to be made, copied either from a design or a piece/object. A mold is shaped around the shape/figure with the help of casting process. The casting process involves a number of steps. There are two methods of casting, investment casting or die casting each with its own advantages.

Investment Casting

Investment Casting is also called ‘lost wax casting’ since the wax is removed by heating in a kiln or in an autoclave. It is the earliest metal technique evolved by mankind and has a history of 4,000 years. Believed to have been developed by the Mesopotamians, it remains the most popular process of making gold (metal) jewellery and forms the basis of modern investment casting process. This process involves dipping a mold into a ceramic mix. Sometimes new materials like plastic or polystyrene foam is used instead of wax. This process has a number of steps involved.

• A primary model is made in hard alloy like nickel silver or just silver.
• A rubber model is made by surrounding this primary model, using sheet rubber in a mold frame. It is then vulcanized by placing it in a heated press. On cooling, it is cut with a scalpel into halves or more and removing the primary model.
• This rubber mold is used to make many copies of the primary model on wax.
• Molten wax is then introduced into the mold cavity by using a wax injector. On cooling the wax is removed to get an exact copy of the primary model in wax.
• After the desired number of models has been made the waxes are arranged in a tree all around a central feeder in the casting machine. The central feeder is also called sprue. The tree placed in a metal cylinder called flask.
• A special mixture called investment plaster is mixed with water to form a thick liquid and poured over the tree covering the wax models. Low vacuum removes air bubbles and then this is allowed to cool and harden to form stiff and sturdy molds.
• Then the flask is inverted and placed in a kiln/furnace. The wax is melted by steam or air to remove all the wax. The furnace is set in stages and the maximum temperature reached is 750 degrees centigrade. The melting process takes about 12 to 16 hours. This melting down of the wax is called the ‘lost wax process’.
• The wax is slowly melted and drained out completely and all that is left behind is the investment plaster mold and this will now be used to pour the required molten metal (to be cased) into.
• The casting process begins by putting the flask in a casting machine. The gold metal or its alloy is melted and then cast into the investment mold. Then it is allowed to cool and solidify.
• After it has cooled down completely it is immersed into cold water which breaks off the investment mold, leaving the casts in the tree. The casting are cut off and then made into jewellery pieces which will then be polished into completion.

Two types of casting machines are used the centrifugal casting machine which is the older technique or the modern technique of static vacuum assist machines.

Advantages of investment casting

It is an age old proven method. It allows the jeweler flexibility to create complex designs. The details can be copied perfectly. The control of color is better. The finished product can be highly polished. It results in very fine surface finish. The metallurgical properties are also excellent.

Disadvantages of investment casting

This process can result in porosity. Also the dimensions may not be as accurate as the die struck method. This process can and is used for almost all gold jewellery and remains a favorite with jewelers even after 6,000 years later!

Die struck method

Die struck method is a casting method where the metal to be cast is forced under pressure into a mold which is usually made out of metal. This is a bona fide method of producing complex shapes. The earliest recorded history of die casting by pressure occurred in 1800’s. Using a plunger or compressed air, molten metal is forced into a metallic die and the pressure is maintained until the metal settles and solidifies.

The pressure reaches 25 tons per square inch. The intense pressure causes the atoms in the metal to move closer together and solidify to form dies or molds. Using compressed sheet metal and steel dies mountings are formed with metal parts mechanically stamped out. Each part is matched and fitted into the correct portion of halved die and stamped and shaped. A hydraulic press is used.

Silver metal beads

by Binasaji

Silver has been used to create jewelry since time immemorial. The Navajos combined silver with turquoise to make gorgeous jewelry pieces like the Squash Blossom necklaces and silver bracelets with inlay work. These are popular even today. Silver is cheaper than gold but is equally attractive; with men and women, both wearing silver jewelry.

Available in a range of finishes – dull, bright, oxidized and a tantalizing choice of designs, silver beaded jewelry is versatile and economical – purchasing several pieces is affordable and the ornaments can be funky, traditional or formal. Silver chunky beaded jewelry often teamed with darker colored gemstones like navy blue, dark green or deep reds are now sported by men – not just as rings but also chains, bracelets and amulets. Dull or tarnished silver beads complement the tough exteriors of stylish men and make great gifts – different from the traditional clothes and perfumes. Oxidized silver jewelry can be bought off the streets at dirt-cheap prices (although the purity of the metal is questionable).

Other than silver, gold is the other precious metal popularly used to make beaded jewelry. Platinum being highly priced is also used but is available at select premium outlets which cater to an exclusive clientele.

Silver Facts

Silver shining beads have an allure that makes jewellery sparkle and liven up the dullest outfits. Pure silver is extremely malleable and lends itself to making very thin sheets and wires. Silver can be made into sheets so thin that they are almost transparent and allow light to pass through. In fact, over one hundred thousand such sheets placed over each other will equal only one inch! Thin wires finer than a human hair can be drawn out of pure silver easily. Although good quality silver stays bright for a long time eventually, it starts to blacken as the pollutants in the atmosphere react with it.

For jewellery making purposes, silver is mixed with other metals especially copper to form an alloy which gives it strength, the addition also makes it possible to craft the silver into desired shapes and sizes.

Types of Silver beads

While all silver used for crafting jewellery is not 100% pure, it helps to know the common terms referred to while buying silver beaded jewellery. Silver is marked as per its purity – pure silver jewellery will refer to a minimum mix of copper ranging from 1% to 3% in pure silver.

Sterling silver beads have at least 7.5% of copper mixed and are approximately 92.5% pure. Sterling silver is stronger than pure silver and it is easier to carve and mold sterling silver beads. These beads usually have a dull finish and the niches are tarnished giving them a vintage appearance. In some countries, sterling silver is not called sterling but is marked .925 indicating the purity of the silver is 92.5%.

Nickel silver or German silver is so called only because it resembles silver beads. These beads have no silver in them and are actually an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc.

Handmade silver beads can make heads turn with their beautiful designs and carvings. Some of the most popular handmade silver beads come from the island nations of Bali and Thailand . The former is known as Bali Silver and the latter as Hill Tribe Silver. These gifted silver artisans create tiny works of art with their hands and usually it is impossible to find two pieces which are alike. These beads have very distinct designs – mostly depicting images from nature (animals, trees, birds, flowers etc.) and are usually tarnished or oxidized. Most of these beads are sterling silver in order to achieve the traditional effect.

Manual techniques and very few implements are employed by the artisans in these island nations to create interesting designs which have found acclaim throughout the world. Silver is melted and then either made into sheets and wires or poured into moulds. The wires or sheets are cut to create various shapes and sizes of beads. Some beads are made by poking holes in the sheets and fusing wires onto it creating gorgeous filigreed beads. Designs are sometimes engraved onto the beads giving it the distinct appearance of Bali Silver and Hill Tribe silver. The last part of the process is oxidization, where the beads are dipped into various liquids to highlight the images on the bead.

Buying & Caring tips

Hollow silver beads are lighter than the solid ones and care should be taken while using beaded jewellery with hollow silver beads as they can dent easily. Solid silver beads should be bought from reliable stores since they could easily be pewter beads with just a silver plate on top. Compare prices – solid silver beads will be more expensive than silver plated beads and will weigh lesser than them since pewter is heavier than silver. .

Always check the purity of the silver before buying beads – the price of sterling silver beads will be cheaper than pure silver although the amount of effort and time spent in carving or finishing the bead will also determine the price. Handcrafted beads will usually cost more.

Many manufacturers now machine make beads and call them Bali Silver and Hill Tribe Silver since the designs are the same as the authentic Bali and Hill Tribe silver beads. Make sure you check the authenticity of the origination on the beads before purchasing handcrafted beaded jewellery.

Buy your silver jewellery after deciding the purpose, if you require it for daily wear, buy beads which have the least amount of metals added – the silver should be at least 98% to 99% pure. Higher purity will ensure no tarnish for a longer time although the design of the beads should be such that it can tolerate the stress of daily usage.

Over a period of time, silver tarnishes. Pure silver tarnishes slowly and silver mixed with other metals has a quicker rate of blackening. This is also a test to check the purity of your silver beads.

Many silver beaded jewellery carry a tarnished appearance to give the piece depth and an antique look. One needs to be very careful while cleaning (if required) such silver beaded ornaments. The tarnish can be removed with anti-tarnish polishes, or even lemon juice or toothpaste with a soft cloth.

Cleaning silver beaded jewellery embellished with crystals or enameled beads or any other beads treated with coatings need special care. Remember the anti-tarnish polish or lemon juice will react with the coatings and normally expose the bead under the coating ruining the complete piece.

Store your silver beads away from pollutants in a soft cloth bag or airtight plastic covers. Remember to wipe the silver after use and avoid spraying harmful chemicals on it. Unless, you like the tarnished look, don’t wear your silver beads while swimming or in the shower.

Delicate filigreed beads, carved by the tribal artisans, wound around semi-precious stones, chunky large stand alone beads as pendants – silver beads are always in vogue.