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    Jewellery Manufacturing

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    Jewelry Manufacturing

    by Ms Nandita Ray

    Today jewelry is crafted using the traditional method of simple tools and skilled fingers to modern tools and hi tech means. The flow of ideas and the wide range of designs offer this choice. Mass production or made to order is the other factor in choosing a particular method of production. Here is an attempt to bring to the reader a comprehensive idea about jewelry manufacturing.

    I am sure many marvel at the beauty and workmanship of their favorite piece of jewellery. Many questions might spring to mind, wondering how the delicate design was created or the gem set? What makes the jewellery strong? Who are these artisans who wield their art with such aplomb creating intricate piece de resistance’ with impudence? Making jewellery is definitely not a cake walk. Time, technology and experience have contributed to strengthening the art of jewellery manufacturing. When early man began wearing jewellery fashioned out of stones, bones or any attractive material that caught the eye he hammered, pounded, chiseled and rubbed to get the required shape and size. As man matured and ideas grew, new techniques developed to capture his imagination in a world of gold, gems and glitter. From simple discs to 3D designs were woven with the help of tools and technology. Skill still remains the most important tool and no goldsmith worth his salt and valued for his craftsmanship lacks in this department!

    Today jewellery is crafted using the traditional method of simple tools and skilled fingers to modern tools and hi tech means. The flow of ideas and the wide range of designs offer this choice. Mass production or made to order is the other factor in choosing a particular method of production. Here is an attempt to bring to the reader a comprehensive idea about jewellery manufacturing.

    Methods used in Jewelry manufacturing

    Methods that are typically used to make jewellery from gold and silver and its alloys are Investment Casting, Die casting, cuttle fish casting and hand fabrication. Many jewelers use CAD/CAM to make jewellery. CAD computer aided designs and CAM i.e. computer aided manufacturing to reproduce a model piece of jewellery that can be mass produced. Making jewellery requires knowledge and expertise in gold smithing, stonecutting, engraving, mold making, fabrication, wax carving, lost wax casting, electroplating, forging, and polishing. These are the various steps needed to make jewellery. The first step in making a detailed piece is making of a mold.

    Mold

    Jewellery making begins with a mold. A mold is the exact and perfect replica of the piece to be made, copied either from a design or a piece/object. A mold is shaped around the shape/figure with the help of casting process. The casting process involves a number of steps. There are two methods of casting, investment casting or die casting each with its own advantages.

    Investment Casting

    Investment Casting is also called ‘lost wax casting’ since the wax is removed by heating in a kiln or in an autoclave. It is the earliest metal technique evolved by mankind and has a history of 4,000 years. Believed to have been developed by the Mesopotamians, it remains the most popular process of making gold (metal) jewellery and forms the basis of modern investment casting process. This process involves dipping a mold into a ceramic mix. Sometimes new materials like plastic or polystyrene foam is used instead of wax. This process has a number of steps involved.

    • A primary model is made in hard alloy like nickel silver or just silver.
    • A rubber model is made by surrounding this primary model, using sheet rubber in a mold frame. It is then vulcanized by placing it in a heated press. On cooling, it is cut with a scalpel into halves or more and removing the primary model.
    • This rubber mold is used to make many copies of the primary model on wax.
    • Molten wax is then introduced into the mold cavity by using a wax injector. On cooling the wax is removed to get an exact copy of the primary model in wax.
    • After the desired number of models has been made the waxes are arranged in a tree all around a central feeder in the casting machine. The central feeder is also called sprue. The tree placed in a metal cylinder called flask.
    • A special mixture called investment plaster is mixed with water to form a thick liquid and poured over the tree covering the wax models. Low vacuum removes air bubbles and then this is allowed to cool and harden to form stiff and sturdy molds.
    • Then the flask is inverted and placed in a kiln/furnace. The wax is melted by steam or air to remove all the wax. The furnace is set in stages and the maximum temperature reached is 750 degrees centigrade. The melting process takes about 12 to 16 hours. This melting down of the wax is called the ‘lost wax process’.
    • The wax is slowly melted and drained out completely and all that is left behind is the investment plaster mold and this will now be used to pour the required molten metal (to be cased) into.
    • The casting process begins by putting the flask in a casting machine. The gold metal or its alloy is melted and then cast into the investment mold. Then it is allowed to cool and solidify.
    • After it has cooled down completely it is immersed into cold water which breaks off the investment mold, leaving the casts in the tree. The casting are cut off and then made into jewellery pieces which will then be polished into completion.

    Two types of casting machines are used the centrifugal casting machine which is the older technique or the modern technique of static vacuum assist machines.

    Advantages of investment casting

    It is an age old proven method. It allows the jeweler flexibility to create complex designs. The details can be copied perfectly. The control of color is better. The finished product can be highly polished. It results in very fine surface finish. The metallurgical properties are also excellent.

    Disadvantages of investment casting

    This process can result in porosity. Also the dimensions may not be as accurate as the die struck method. This process can and is used for almost all gold jewellery and remains a favorite with jewelers even after 6,000 years later!

    Die struck method

    Die struck method is a casting method where the metal to be cast is forced under pressure into a mold which is usually made out of metal. This is a bona fide method of producing complex shapes. The earliest recorded history of die casting by pressure occurred in 1800’s. Using a plunger or compressed air, molten metal is forced into a metallic die and the pressure is maintained until the metal settles and solidifies.

    The pressure reaches 25 tons per square inch. The intense pressure causes the atoms in the metal to move closer together and solidify to form dies or molds. Using compressed sheet metal and steel dies mountings are formed with metal parts mechanically stamped out. Each part is matched and fitted into the correct portion of halved die and stamped and shaped. A hydraulic press is used.

    Silver metal beads

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    Silver metal beads

    by Binasaji

    Silver has been used to create jewelry since time immemorial. The Navajos combined silver with turquoise to make gorgeous jewelry pieces like the Squash Blossom necklaces and silver bracelets with inlay work. These are popular even today. Silver is cheaper than gold but is equally attractive; with men and women, both wearing silver jewelry.

    Available in a range of finishes – dull, bright, oxidized and a tantalizing choice of designs, silver beaded jewelry is versatile and economical – purchasing several pieces is affordable and the ornaments can be funky, traditional or formal. Silver chunky beaded jewelry often teamed with darker colored gemstones like navy blue, dark green or deep reds are now sported by men – not just as rings but also chains, bracelets and amulets. Dull or tarnished silver beads complement the tough exteriors of stylish men and make great gifts – different from the traditional clothes and perfumes. Oxidized silver jewelry can be bought off the streets at dirt-cheap prices (although the purity of the metal is questionable).

    Other than silver, gold is the other precious metal popularly used to make beaded jewelry. Platinum being highly priced is also used but is available at select premium outlets which cater to an exclusive clientele.

    Silver Facts

    Silver shining beads have an allure that makes jewellery sparkle and liven up the dullest outfits. Pure silver is extremely malleable and lends itself to making very thin sheets and wires. Silver can be made into sheets so thin that they are almost transparent and allow light to pass through. In fact, over one hundred thousand such sheets placed over each other will equal only one inch! Thin wires finer than a human hair can be drawn out of pure silver easily. Although good quality silver stays bright for a long time eventually, it starts to blacken as the pollutants in the atmosphere react with it.

    For jewellery making purposes, silver is mixed with other metals especially copper to form an alloy which gives it strength, the addition also makes it possible to craft the silver into desired shapes and sizes.

    Types of Silver beads

    While all silver used for crafting jewellery is not 100% pure, it helps to know the common terms referred to while buying silver beaded jewellery. Silver is marked as per its purity – pure silver jewellery will refer to a minimum mix of copper ranging from 1% to 3% in pure silver.

    Sterling silver beads have at least 7.5% of copper mixed and are approximately 92.5% pure. Sterling silver is stronger than pure silver and it is easier to carve and mold sterling silver beads. These beads usually have a dull finish and the niches are tarnished giving them a vintage appearance. In some countries, sterling silver is not called sterling but is marked .925 indicating the purity of the silver is 92.5%.

    Nickel silver or German silver is so called only because it resembles silver beads. These beads have no silver in them and are actually an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc.

    Handmade silver beads can make heads turn with their beautiful designs and carvings. Some of the most popular handmade silver beads come from the island nations of Bali and Thailand . The former is known as Bali Silver and the latter as Hill Tribe Silver. These gifted silver artisans create tiny works of art with their hands and usually it is impossible to find two pieces which are alike. These beads have very distinct designs – mostly depicting images from nature (animals, trees, birds, flowers etc.) and are usually tarnished or oxidized. Most of these beads are sterling silver in order to achieve the traditional effect.

    Manual techniques and very few implements are employed by the artisans in these island nations to create interesting designs which have found acclaim throughout the world. Silver is melted and then either made into sheets and wires or poured into moulds. The wires or sheets are cut to create various shapes and sizes of beads. Some beads are made by poking holes in the sheets and fusing wires onto it creating gorgeous filigreed beads. Designs are sometimes engraved onto the beads giving it the distinct appearance of Bali Silver and Hill Tribe silver. The last part of the process is oxidization, where the beads are dipped into various liquids to highlight the images on the bead.

    Buying & Caring tips

    Hollow silver beads are lighter than the solid ones and care should be taken while using beaded jewellery with hollow silver beads as they can dent easily. Solid silver beads should be bought from reliable stores since they could easily be pewter beads with just a silver plate on top. Compare prices – solid silver beads will be more expensive than silver plated beads and will weigh lesser than them since pewter is heavier than silver. .

    Always check the purity of the silver before buying beads – the price of sterling silver beads will be cheaper than pure silver although the amount of effort and time spent in carving or finishing the bead will also determine the price. Handcrafted beads will usually cost more.

    Many manufacturers now machine make beads and call them Bali Silver and Hill Tribe Silver since the designs are the same as the authentic Bali and Hill Tribe silver beads. Make sure you check the authenticity of the origination on the beads before purchasing handcrafted beaded jewellery.

    Buy your silver jewellery after deciding the purpose, if you require it for daily wear, buy beads which have the least amount of metals added – the silver should be at least 98% to 99% pure. Higher purity will ensure no tarnish for a longer time although the design of the beads should be such that it can tolerate the stress of daily usage.

    Over a period of time, silver tarnishes. Pure silver tarnishes slowly and silver mixed with other metals has a quicker rate of blackening. This is also a test to check the purity of your silver beads.

    Many silver beaded jewellery carry a tarnished appearance to give the piece depth and an antique look. One needs to be very careful while cleaning (if required) such silver beaded ornaments. The tarnish can be removed with anti-tarnish polishes, or even lemon juice or toothpaste with a soft cloth.

    Cleaning silver beaded jewellery embellished with crystals or enameled beads or any other beads treated with coatings need special care. Remember the anti-tarnish polish or lemon juice will react with the coatings and normally expose the bead under the coating ruining the complete piece.

    Store your silver beads away from pollutants in a soft cloth bag or airtight plastic covers. Remember to wipe the silver after use and avoid spraying harmful chemicals on it. Unless, you like the tarnished look, don’t wear your silver beads while swimming or in the shower.

    Delicate filigreed beads, carved by the tribal artisans, wound around semi-precious stones, chunky large stand alone beads as pendants – silver beads are always in vogue.

    Earring

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    Chandelier earrings are the inimitable jewelry piece that adds a dash of classy glamour to the personality of the lady. It makes her so beautiful and gorgeous that she filches the limelight of the party. These earrings are undoubtedly amazing creation. It is a versatile jewelry item as it suits every complexion; every face cut and every outfit. Female wearing these fashionable earrings certainly catch holds the attention of the people. .. .– Mark

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    Cufflinks Buying Guide

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    Cufflinks Buying Guide

    by RITIKA CHANGRANI

    Believe it or not, cufflinks actually go far back in history. The use of cufflinks can be found in ancient hieroglyphics in King Tut’s tomb. These cufflinks are not like the cufflinks of today. The cufflinks that people wear today were first worn in the late 18th century.

    What is a cufflink? A cufflink is a fastener that is used to fasten or link the two portions of a cuff of a jacket or dress shirt. They can have very simple designs or be very complicated, depending on how much the cufflinks are. Like everything else, cufflinks do back in time.

    Cufflinks History

    cufflinksBelieve it or not, cufflinks actually go far back in history. The use of cufflinks can be found in ancient hieroglyphics in King Tut’s tomb. These cufflinks are not like the cufflinks of today. The cufflinks that people wear today were first worn in the late 18th century.

    No one is sure when the cufflinks of today first arrived. They are originally mentioned in writing pieces in 1788, but they had actually had been worn sometime before that. It just seems that all of sudden people had started cutting cuff-fastening slits into clothing. Tape ties or ribbons had been used in the past to fasten cuffs. These ribbons or ties were replaced with luxurious items, made of gold or silver and set with gemstones. They were a luxury reserved for the aristocratic classes and were hand-made.

    above image courtesy: http://www.cufflinks.com/

    The invention of the steam-driven stamping machine, electro-metallurgy and the Tour a’ Guilloche machine in the 18th and 19h centuries opened up cufflinks to a wider audience. By the 1840s, the French cuff or double-cuff shirt became popular and has never gone out of fashion since. The middles classes were able to afford cufflinks that were replicas of the silver or enamel cufflinks that the rich wore. The replicas would usually have fake diamonds or be made of gold-colored alloys with foil.

    During 1880s in America, a George Krementz invented a device that could mass produce one-piece cufflinks. The device was based on an American Civil War shell-making machine. This enabled US businesses to use cufflinks for advertising purposes or as gift incentives for clients.

    By the 1920s, the most popular style was the enamel cufflink. After the Communist revolution in Russia, the luxury artisans of Faberge fled to Europe and America. These artisans taught their enameling skills to others. Their designs were based on the art movements of the day. The low-cost production of plastics in the 1930s led to the decline of enamel cufflinks. Enamel cufflinks have now become collectors’ items, especially the hand-made ones.

    The peak of cufflink popularity was probably in the mid-1960s. Swank, Inc., a popular manufacturer at the time, was making 12 million cufflinks a year. Today, they probably make about 200,000 a year. Cufflinks are making a comeback and sales have been increasing over the last ten years. The French cuff shirt is still the most formal and prestigious of shirts.

    Reflections of Art

    Cufflinks have often reflected the significant art movement of the day. To see proof of this fact one can visit the Cufflink Museum in Conway, New Hampshire. This museum has over 700,000 pairs of cufflinks.

    Most Expensive Cufflinks

    The most expensive pair of cufflinks ever sold was a pair that was given to King Edward VIII by his wife Wallis Simpson. These cufflinks had diamonds and were made of platinum. They were sold at an auction for $440,000.

    Cufflink Styles

    Today, there are numerous styles of cufflinks. You can buy novelty cufflinks, contemporary cufflinks and humorous cufflinks. Some top designers of cufflinks are Sonia Spencer, Murray Ward, Babette Wasserman and Simon Carter.

    Cufflink Design

    Whatever the style of the cufflinks, they have a very simple design. Cufflinks consist of a post, a short cylindrical portion or a chain connecting two disc-shaped parts, one of these is sized to fit through the button-hole of the cuff. The other disc-shaped part, positioned on the most on the most visible side, is wider. This part is one that is usually monogrammed or engraved.

    For First Timers

    When you plan to wear cufflinks for the first time, you should take your cue from the tone of the event and what the other event goers will be wearing. You should link the cuff with a cufflink, then close the swivel bar and insert the cufflink through the holes from outside. The next thing that you should do is open the swivel bar to secure the cuff.

    Cuff Styles

    You have a choice of at least five cuff styles that you can wear cufflinks with. The cufflinks should be matched with necktie, button cover, ascot or bolo tie / bola tie.

    The Variety of Designs

    Cufflink designs do vary widely. There is almost an unlimited variety of designs and construction details that could appear on a cufflinks. The hidden side of a cufflink could have a portion that swivels on the central post, aligning with the post while the link is threaded through a button-hole, and swiveling into a position at right angles to the post when worn.

    Silk Knot

    In Europe, there is an alternative to cufflinks called the silk knot. They are also known as monkey’s fists. They are cheaper than cufflinks, but they are still considered to be appropriate for formal occasions. French cuff shirts could be accompanied with a set of color-coordinated silk knots instead of double-button cufflinks in Europe.

    As a Gift

    If your friend or your special someone likes cufflinks instead of silk knots, you could get cufflinks as a gift. When you choosing cufflinks as a gift, the most important thing are that the pair of cufflinks reflects the personality of the wearer. One of the best things about wearing a pair of cufflinks is that they are a tiny reflection of a person’s style and taste.

    You should also give some thought to the person’s wardrobe and what their favorite colors are. Do they like to wear gold? Do they prefer metals? Do they like to be flashy? Are they looking more for a quiet understatement?

    You should think about the person’s style of dress, their personality and how they like others to see them. Ideally, you will be able to find a pair that can fit all three areas. You should not worry too much. It is usually the thought that counts anyway.

    History of Navajo jewelry

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    History of Navajo jewelry

    by Binasaji

    Jewellery played an important part in native American lives. Several pieces dating back to over 150 years have been found areas of Arizona and other southwestern states. Shells adorned with images of snakes and frogs (both symbolizing fertility) were used as bracelets. The use of Turquoise is common in most of the jewellery.

    Tall and proud wearing Skin, Leather, Feathers, Silver and Turquoise. Able to communicate with the Air and water. Skilful hunters. The Indians – Hopi, Navajo, Sioux, Zuni, Chippewa, Apache, Cheyenne, Shawnee and plenty more. Scattered all over Mexico and America, with a concentration in Arizona in the Navajo Reservation, these proud people were known for their fighting skills and for their creativity. The Native Americans loved to adorn themselves. Shells, Bones were carved and made into neckwear. Feathers and even Quills were strung together to create headgear. Colorful shells, small stones, flowers and leaves were crushed and used for body painting. The Indians loved color and were one with Mother Nature.

    Jewellery played an important part in their lives. Several pieces dating back to over 150 years have been found areas of Arizona and other southwestern states. Shells adorned with images of snakes and frogs (both symbolizing fertility) were used as bracelets. The use of Turquoise is common in most of the Jewellery. In fact, Native Jewellery has enabled historians to learn a great deal about the life and social culture of the Native Indians. Jewellery was also traded in exchange for brides, goods, food etc. between tribes.

    Jewellery was not only a form of ornamentation but different pieces symbolized various things in an Indian’s life. It indicated the position of the person in the clan – the richest, the healers, the hunters etc. Different tribes had distinctive designs and it was possible to know the tribe just by looking at a person’s ornamentation.

    The Indians were in union with nature and believed in signs sent to warn them or inform them about the future. For e.g.. if a snake was sighted it was a sign of fertile times, the bear was a symbol of good luck and bears were rarely killed by the Navajos, except in self-defense. The Bearclaw, bear tooth etc. were harvested from dead animals and worn for good luck and positive energy. The Native Americans were even named after animals and believed that their animal name would protect them from harm.

    The first form of Indian Jewellery is Beads, also called Heishi. Beads were used for creating Jewellery before the Indians learnt to craft silver. Bone, wood, shells were some of the natural items used to make beads, which were freely traded amongst the tribes and used for ornamentation as well. The Indians carved these beads till they were smooth as silk to touch. It is amazing how these skilful people polished the beads to a high gloss and silken finish with their hands and natural materials available to them. The beads were expertly carved with different designs of the Indians – animals, old folklore people etc. They were sometimes also made into beautiful garments for the Chiefs of the tribes and for other special occasions too. These Heishi necklaces are very sought after by collectors of Navajo Jewellery.

    Jewellery made of Turquoise and Silver is the imagery associated with Navajo Jewellery. Mined by the Natives, Turquoise was found in abundance in Arizona, Mexico etc. – the strongholds of the Native American. This pretty blue stone was considered to be a gift from the sky. Carved Turquoise beads were the early form of the prized Navajo Jewellery. This blue stone was also used for good luck and happiness. Turquoise is considered a healing stone, even today. Good gems were used for ceremonial purposes also and have also been found embedded in breastplates of the warrior Indians.

    The Indians learnt the art of using Silver for Jewellery from the Mexicans and soon silversmithing led to the beautiful combination of Turquoise and Silver – the trademark of the Navajos. Although most Indian tribes create Jewellery with Silver and Turquoise, the Navajos were the first to become silversmiths and hence the name Navajo Jewellery. Learnt by an Navajo by the name of Atsidi Sani, from the Mexicans, silversmithing was an art known only to the Navajo’s for almost 25 years (hence the name Navajo Jewellery). Later, the other Indian tribes like the Hopi, Zuni etc, learned this skill. Several varieties of silver are used to make this Jewellery – sterling silver (92% purity silver), coin silver (90% purity, refers to currency melted to make silver) and even some German silver (which is not silver but a combination of metals which give it the silvery look).

    Although the ancient and original Navajo Jewellery has only turquoise, the more recent Navajo pieces use other gems as well in combination with silver – Onyx, Carnelian, Corals etc. Indians who have learnt the art of silversmithing from their ancestors handcraft these pieces even today. Some gems used by them are treated to improve the look of the gems. Designed by the Navajo artist, these Jewellery pieces use Indian designs, historical figures and animals for authenticity.

    The Navajo Jewellery is a piece of history – extremely sought after by connoisseurs of jewellery. Handcrafted jewellery is rare and Indian jewellery is appreciated not just in America, but all over the world. Crafted by hand, each piece is one of its kind and even similar pieces have tiny differences. The range of Jewellery is vast – rings, belts, buckles, earrings, neck ornaments, armlets, bracelets and even some headgear.

    Authentic Native American Jewellery – Heishi (beads), the Squash Blossom design necklace, the Naja set, the Kitohs (bow wrist bands) etc – the jewellery of the Indians have unusual names. Beautiful creations in Silver by a proud people who understood the meaning of being one with nature. Navajo jewellery will always catch the eye of the aficionado.

    Different Navajo jewelry types

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    Different Navajo jewelry types

    by Binasaji

    Wampum Beads , Heishi strings, Naja Sets, Squash Blossom Necklace, Bold Overlay,Inlay work Bracelets , Kitohs. What are they?

    Jewellery plays an important part in all our lives – men and women. The ancient Indians too loved ornamentation and used all kinds of material to fashion jewellery for themselves. In modern times wearing handcrafted, authentic Navajo jewellery has become a trend. The Navajos created designs based on their unique history and culture – Historical figures, animals and other nature symbols like thunder, flowers etc. were the predominant motif in their jewellery.

    So what does Native Indian jewellery comprise of? Mainly it is silver and turquoise jewellery, although contemporary Indian artists also work with various gemstones like coral, carnelians, onyx and of course turquoise. Different tribes have different signature designs and some are common to all the Native American tribes. The Native American jewellery has a range from rings, earrings, necklaces, beautiful belts, wrist bands or bracelets and some websites even offer watches with silver and turquoise inlay work.

    Necklaces are of several types – the Squash Blossom necklace, the Naja set, the Heishi beads, the Wampum beads and Fetishes (which are used as Pendants) etc. The early Native Americans fashioned beads from shells, stones, bones and sometimes even quills and were strung together with string. These bead chains were worn at important religious and ceremonial occasions – shell beads as old as 4000 years have been found. These beads indicated the status of the person- a single girl, a married woman, a hunter, healer, and the leader of the tribe – all had distinctive jewellery to indicate their position in the tribe. Belts, clothing, head gear, weapons were also inlaid or overlaid with beads to give them a more ornamental looks and also for luck.

    Two important beads are a part of the Native American culture – Heishi and Wampum.

    Wampum Beads

    Wampum beads were the earliest form of beads and had great importance in the Native American culture influencing several aspects of the Indian way of life – as jewellery, for religious functions, social, financial and sometimes even political purposes. The Wampum beads of various materials (initially shells and later gemstones and sometimes even coins) were made. These beads were a legacy, handed down from generation to generation as heirlooms. Weapons and clothes were inlaid with Wampum for protection and beauty – even King Philip had a Wampum bead outfit. Colors on the Wampum had different meanings; for example red painted Wampum were a sign of war. Marriages, curing ceremonies and every aspect of the Indian life involved the Wampum.

    Since money was a concept alien to the Native Americans, they made lengths of Wampum, which were initially used for gifting and later for trading between tribes. Later, the Wampum acquired an importance in the economy of the white man also. Scarcity of metal resulted in shortage of coins and the Wampum were used in lieu of currency by the white settlers also. Two colors of beads were utilized for trading – the White beads (Wampum) and the blue, purple or violet ones called “suckanhoch.” The purple beads were twice as valuable as the white Wampum and these beads were widely accepted as currency for several years. Of course, the white men desperately tried to duplicate the handcrafted Wampum through machines but the machine-made crude counterfeits were easily discovered and did not carry the value of the genuine Wampum. Although it may not be a viable form of currency anymore, Wampum beads are highly sought after by collectors of Navajo jewellery.

    Heishi strings

    The Heishi strings are truly a work of art – skilled and patient craftsmanship. A good string of Heishi looks like a snake and feels like silk when you run it through your fingers. The craftsperson takes anywhere from 2 days to 2 weeks to create this wonder. The earlier Heishi strings were made from shell – making a hole in the shell and then making it into beads and finally rubbing it till it became smooth and even. Indian artists now use corals, carnelians, lapis, turquoise etc. to create these lovely Heishi strands. The process of making the Heishi beads requires patience – cutting off squares from the uncut stones/gems, making small holes in each square and stringing them, grinding them so they take on the circular or oblong bead shape, polishing with sand paper and the final polish on a piece of leather. The stones being delicate often break or chip off during the process – depending on the material being used; sometimes almost 50% of the beads are wasted before getting the perfect strand of silken beads. Of course, this flaw is the best way to verify if the strand you are buying is genuine Indian art or not. Most Heishi strands will have at least one bead that is a little chipped or flawed, it is the flaw that lends to the Necklace’s perfection. Wearing a Heishi strand feels like wearing a strand of silk – smooth and even – a masterpiece of patience and craftsmanship.

    Naja Sets

    Borrowed from the Spaniards, the Naja is basically a crescent shape which captured the imagination of the Native Americans. It is possible the Native Indians first spotted the crescent shape on Spanish horses. The Naja design became very popular with the Native Americans and was associated with fertility. Earlier the Naja sets were made of any available metal or even beads or coins, but after the Navajo learnt the art of silversmithing, Naja sets in silver became the trend. Contemporary Navajo artists too create beautiful Naja necklaces in heavy silver with the traditional crescent shape at the center as a pendant. The crescent shape can have designs of Bears, snakes or other floral designs alternatively, some artists make the animal/symbol in a crescent shape to give it the Naja effect.

    Squash Blossom Necklace

    This is an adaptation of the Naja set by the very artistic Zuni tribe. The Navajos who were the first to learn the art of silversmithing created Najas in silver. It was the Zuni tribe (who learnt the art after 25 years) which added turquoise in the Naja set to give rise to the famous Squash Blossom necklaces. These necklaces are a must-have for any serious collector of Native American jewellery. The gifted Zuni added turquoise, shell and other intricate inlay work on the silver to enhance the silver naja. These designs too took on the images of sacred and lucky animals – turtles, buffalo, bear etc. This beautiful traditional Indian piece can be found with both inlay work and overlay work too. A large variety of Squash Blossom necklaces can be found, some with beads in a crescent shape, some may have inlay or overlay animal motifs in silver. It can a pleasure choosing the one (or several) which appeals to you.

    Other jewellery

    Bold Overlay and Inlay work Bracelets / bangles and Kitohs (wristbands worn while stringing bows), Belts, Earrings and Finger rings are also available – made by contemporary Native American artists. These beautiful works of art are in demand by avid jewellery collectors from all over the world.

    Some pieces are delicate while some pieces reflect the raw energy of the Native Americans. Both are equally desirable and are suitable for most ensembles. The greatest advantage is Navajo jewellery is unisex – most pieces can be worn by men and women both.

    Browse the net and surrender to the charm of handcrafted Navajo jewellery.

    Buying and caring tips for Navajo Jewelries

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    Buying and caring tips for Navajo Jewelries

    by Binasaji

    The majority of American Indians too use readymade Sterling silver to craft their designs although there are some artists who use other silver like coins or german silver which are also acceptable (but make sure you are informed if the silver is not sterling).

    Wonderful! So you have decided to invest and enjoy wearing handmade jewellery created by Native American Indians. But before you make the purchase, be sure you are buying authentic handcrafted jewellery and not machine made or Navajo jewellery made by artists who are not Native American Indians – which is often sold as the real thing. Learn a little about the jewellery you are planning to buy -browse the internet and if possible stop by at some stores selling Indian jewellery – to get a feel of what authentic Indian jewellery should look like. Visiting stores selling imitation or poor quality Indian jewellery can be advantageous too – for tips on how Indian jewellery should not appear! The more research you do, the better informed your purchase will be and the chances of getting cheated will be diminished.

    A little about the materials required to create Indian jewellery – mainly Silver and sometimes even Copper along with gemstones go into making Navajo jewellery. Most Indian jewellery with the exception of Heishi beads and Wampum beads utilize silver As per law, silver jewellery has to be Sterling grade silver, which is 92.5 percent purity silver. Most metals used in jewellery are not of 100% purity (the metals used are always alloys) because a pure metal can bend easily and the ring or bracelet will loose its shape just after one use. The majority of American Indians too use readymade Sterling silver to craft their designs although there are some artists who use other silver like coins or German silver which are also acceptable (but make sure you are informed if the silver is not sterling).
    The silver in Navajo jewellery enhances the beauty of turquoise. Most turquoise available in the market today is treated. Stones are sometimes treated (with stabilizing/coating or dying agents) to make them stronger or to enhance their appearance. For eg. good quality untreated turquoise is very expensive, which will increase the price of the jewellery. If the stones have been treated, the seller must let you know in detail the kind of treatment the stone has undergone.

    The beauty of silver and turquoise are enchanting and it has captured the interest of millions worldwide. Contemporary Indian artists are re-creating the beauty of Navajo jewellery with gemstones other than traditional Turquoise – corals, onyx, lapis and carnelians are also being used in making Indian jewellery. These present-day Indian artists have learnt the art of making Navajo jewellery from their ancestors. Along with traditional designs, they also offer more contemporary pieces like Watches with the traditional silver and turquoise work. The price of most authentic Indian jewellery is high, in comparison to the value of the materials used – the patience, skill and hours that go into creating a handcrafted piece are much more than imitation or machine-made jewellery, hence the higher price. In fact, if the seller is offering the jewellery at a lower price, it may be imitation or machine-made or pawn jewellery. Browse around to get an approximate idea of what each jewellery piece should cost.

    The American Indians sell a piece of their ancient culture through their jewellery. Their creations imbibe their age-old beliefs into each piece of handmade jewellery. The Heishi strands, Squash Blossom necklaces, Naja sets, Kitohs etc are all traditional Navajo concepts. Good quality genuine handmade pieces have clear designs on them; the cut and setting of the stones are impeccable. Poor quality or Imitation pieces will not have the clarity in the designs and the cut and setting of the stones will be poor – sometimes even the glue will be visible between the silver and the stones – an indication the piece is imitation.

    Most American Indians like all artists hallmark their jewellery. This means that the pieces created by them are signed by a symbol or a letter. A hallmarked piece is a sure sign that the jewellery is authentic. Some pieces like Heishi strands have a distinct silken feel that cannot be imitated by inferior pieces. Almost always, a Heishi strand will have one flawed or chipped bead – this is proof that the strand is handmade.

    The safest course is to look for documentation that the piece is genuinely made by American Indian artists (most of who are registered with different societies, recognized by the Government like the “Indian Arts and Crafts Association”). Later if you plan on reselling your jewellery, you can get a better price than if the jewellery has no certificate. Buy from a reputed seller who will provide accurate information about the piece. Also if a seller has duplicates of the same piece, it is not authentic handcrafted jewellery. All handcrafted jewellery (even similar pieces) has some differences – big or small.

    Caring for your Navajo jewellery is as important as making the purchase. Store the piece separately to avoid scratches on the stones. Turquoise is a brittle stone; a slight blow can break the stone. This is the same for other stones like corals, carnelians too. Keep your Navajo jewellery away from extreme temperatures and to clean the stone just rub with a cloth. The silver in Navajo jewellery should never be polished to a high finish. Always leave some area tarnished; this will enhance the beauty of the piece. Tender loving care will make your Navajo jewellery look beautiful for years.

    Some collectors invest in antique Navajo jewellery – made in the 1900’s, these pieces are referred to as Dead Pawn or Old Pawn. These pieces are antiques and may even be heirlooms of families that have been sold, stolen or pawned for money in order to feed the family. Some Indians sell their heirlooms to gratify their alcoholism or drugs. Whatever the reason for parting, these Dead Pawn do not normally have a good vibrations, therefore it is advisable to stay away from them. However, there are some antique pieces gifted by the Indians to others with a grateful spirit and carry positive vibrations – however these are relatively rare and one must delve into the past to verify the truth.

    The revival of interest in Navajo Jewellery has given a profitable livelihood to the present American Indians. There are plenty of Indian artists offering beautiful handcrafted traditional Navajo jewellery. Some can even take orders or help you decide which Animal symbol will bring you luck!
    Knowledge is power. And in learning about the culture and history of the American Indians, you will be able to appreciate the beauty, skill and potency of wearing authentic Navajo jewellery.

    Dog Necklaces

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    A post by Ardamun

    You need to buy dog necklaces that suit your dog. Just for this very reason, there are different types of dog necklaces available with the jewelers. There are dog necklaces available to match with the color of your dog, and with its size. For big and massive dogs there are heavy necklaces, and for small dogs and lapdogs, delicate necklaces are what are required. ….

    EMERALD NECKLACE JEWELRY

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    by Nalink Naik

    Emerald is a gem with many excellent features and has very unique and special characteristics. Knowledge about this very special gemstone will not only make sure you get value for your money but also gives you the conviction required to make the right choice.

    A most stunning and versatile range of jewelry made out of both precious, as well as semiprecious stones is available today. Jewelry, both modern and traditional, and sometimes a combination of both, is well within the range of most everyone.

    Emerald NecklaceEmerald, the gemstone with the rich green color, has always been much coveted and very popular, in the form of jewelry, from ancient times to today’s modern world. Necklaces, crafted out of emeralds, are no exception to the rule. These not only look stunning but also add class to the wearer. The rare natural beauty of the emerald, lends itself to be crafted into a stunning collection of necklaces. A wide variety of designs, that are not only intricate and tasteful but also appealing to both young and old.

    Emerald is a gem with many excellent features and has very unique and special characteristics. Knowledge about this very special gemstone will not only make sure you get value for your money but also gives you the conviction required to make the right choice. Like all other precious gemstones, the color, clarity, cut and carat decide the worth of the emerald. A fair knowledge of each of these characteristics will go a long way in ensuring the authenticity and quality of the jewel.

    Color: The most important and a very unique characteristic of this stone is the rich green color it has, because of which, it is popularly known as the gemstone of spring. Emerald belongs to the family of Beryl’s and owes its brilliant green color to the presence of chromium and vanadium. This rich green color is what determines the value of the gem. The more saturated and rich the color, the more value it has. In fact, the emerald with a darker hue and more inclusions is without any doubt more precious than an emerald with less inclusions and a lighter shade of green.

    Clarity: Emerald, with a hardness rating of 7.5 to 8, has the most inclusions and fissures as compared to other gems. These inclusions and cracks are clearly visible when the emerald is viewed through a microscope. These fissures in the emerald are known as the gardening effect and another unique feature of this stone. In fact, these inclusions are what help identify a genuine natural emerald from a fake one. The richness of the color in the emerald makes up for these flaws. Even though the emerald has many inclusions, it is a hard and durable gemstone. This gem is treated with oil and resin to minimize the flaws and to strengthen it.

    Cut: Due to the many inclusions and the brittle nature of the gem, the process of cutting, polishing and setting is very problematic indeed. In order to overcome this problem, a special cut was developed called the emerald cut. This cut is mostly square and rectangular in nature and the beveled edges in this cut not only enhance the beauty of the emerald but also protect the gem. This does not mean that the emerald is cut only in this shape. Emeralds are cut into many other beautiful and classical shapes. The round diamond cut, oval and trillion cut and the princess and marquise cut are most popular. The rounded pearl cut is also becoming very popular now.

    Carat: The carat or the measure of the size of the gem is what adds to the value of any gem. This is so with the emerald too.

    With all these very unique characteristics the emerald is much coveted and very, very popular in the form of various jewelry items. Necklaces crafted out of emeralds have been much in demand from times immemorial. Even today emerald necklaces in an array of exquisite styles and settings are available to the consumer. Styles and settings ranging from the classic to the contemporary, crafted most intricately and tastefully, to suit any occasion, any age group, are all available. Designs both ethnic and modern and sometimes a combination of both, the range in emerald necklaces is unlimited. The ethnic designs, influenced by the rich heritage of the bygone eras, are much in demand especially for formal occasions. For those partial to modern and more elegant designs, a truly beautiful and sophisticated array of designs in emerald necklaces are available. From chokers to long necklaces or even simple strands of emerald s cut in pearl shapes, there are designs to suit any age group, any occasion and to compliment any ensemble you may wear.

    As far as designs go, they may be floral or pertain to nature or plain geometrical. Weather a choker or a long necklace, the choice is absolutely individualistic. Whatever the pattern, whatever the length, emerald necklaces look most breathtaking when set in a metal that compliments the green color of the gem. White gold or platinum enhances the rich green color of the emerald most. Emeralds look good all on their own, but in combination with diamonds the effect is truly stunning. Emerald necklaces, offset with precious stones like rubies, sapphires and diamonds, are in a class of their own. Traditionally, the whole set, i.e. the necklace with matching earrings, bracelet and ring was usually bought and worn as a whole. Today the modern designs are such, that a single piece of jewelry is stunning enough to make a style statement of your own.

    Whatever the style or design, the clasp of the necklace is very important. A clasp with a good design and quality not only adds to the beauty of the necklace, but also ensures the safety of the jewel. Care of emerald necklaces is very important. As emeralds have a lot of inclusions and are treated with oil or resin in order to strengthen the gem, never clean the emerald necklace with ultrasonic jewelry cleaner or with harsh detergents. This may dissolve the resin or oil and weaken the stone. Even though the emerald has many cracks and fissures, it is a hard gem and does not scratch easily.

    All in all, emerald necklaces not only look very chic, but also very beautiful to behold, especially when set in the right metal, with the right cut and an appropriate design. Emerald necklaces make wonderful gifts especially for anniversaries, as this gemstone symbolizes enduring and eternal love. Emerald necklaces are beautiful and stunning and this is a piece of jewelry anybody would be proud to own.

    Amethyst perfect 6th anniversary gift

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    Amethyst perfect 6th anniversary gift

    by Debjani Banerjee

    Amethysts have a scintillating range of color. A wide range of purple characterizes this gemstone. The crystals as they occur in nature are in the form of sparkling clusters growing amidst chunks of quartz and other kinds of rock. The mineral manganese in quartz gives amethyst its special hue.

    Summary: Amethysts have a scintillating range of color. A wide range of purple characterizes this gemstone. The crystals as they occur in nature are in the form of sparkling clusters growing amidst chunks of quartz and other kinds of rock. The mineral manganese in quartz gives amethyst its special hue.

    Amethyst is commonly known as the official birthstone for the month of February; it is also the birthstone for the Zodiac sign Pisces. Amethyst is usually gifted on the 4th, 6th, 17 Th, wedding anniversaries. Amethyst has been a very popular gemstone through thousands of years owing to its almost miraculous powers!

    This lovely gem is not very expensive as it is freely available in nature, but its loveliness of color and clarity is unparalled; other violet gemstones are compared to Amethyst to make a comparison. Amethysts are very much the favored choice of stone for jewelry of various styles. It is also used for ornamentation purposes.

    Let us get acquainted with the salient features that distinguish its peculiar composition. Amethyst or SiO2 is transparent purple colored quartz. It is the most important among all varieties of quartz. Amethysts occur mostly as long prismatic crystals; in layman’s terms it resembles a six-sided prismatic pyramid like structure
    on one side and ends in a pointed ending on the other. Amethyst has a hardness of 7 on Mho’s scale of hardness.

    Amethysts have a scintillating range of color. A wide range of purple characterizes this gemstone. The crystals as they occur in nature are in the form of sparkling clusters growing amidst chunks of quartz and other kinds of rock. The mineral manganese in quartz gives amethyst its special hue.

    The lighter amethysts are known as rose de France variety, the deeper ones with dense color and deep rose flashes in-between are the expensive varieties. Darker hued amethysts have no need to be further enhanced or heat-treated; the lighter ones are sometimes heat treated to citrine color. Most of the Amethysts that are commercially available nowadays are normally heat treated to get a deeper colors.

    The color of the pure and expensive amethyst is a clear purple, but the normal range of color in amethyst can vary from lilac, lavender, and mauve to even deep purple and its intermediate colors. An” Amethyst geode ” can be one of the most arresting sights in nature for its sheer beauty. A huge piece of quartz studded with sharp violet crystals with deep pink flashes in their hearts remind one of nebulae ready to give birth to a million new stars! Top quality amethyst is a deep purple stone with pink flashes.

    No wonder the Amethyst has been a popular choice for the ” Royals” of all ages, its purple color echoing the colors of royalty. Amethysts paired with diamonds, or set in platinum with other precious stones like emeralds and rubies have been extensively used in the crown and state jewelry of all European royalty and have similarly found pride of place in the huge jewelry collections of our Indian princes and Maharajas.

    There are various types of Amethysts like all other minerals. Experts, geologists can distinguish varieties by shape and color. The” types of clusters” are also pointers to the place of origin. Experts can identify localities from where the amethyst specimen originated by its tint and hue.
    The color, shape, cluster are key factors in determining the place of origin. Amethysts are found extensively in many countries of the world. Vera Cruz from Mexico, Guiro from Brazil and Mexico are prismatic crystal varieties. South America boasts even larger crystals; Africa has smaller stones of deeper and more intense colors whereas Australia has only smaller varieties. The Minas Gerais from Brazil, Maraba from Brazil, Thunder Bay from Canada are other popular varieties of this gemstone.

    This gem is mined from South America, Africa, Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, Bolivia, Zambia, and Namibia.

    The origin to the name of this stone is the stuff of fable and legend! Greek mythology is full of tales stranger than life. Amethyst’s folklore and origin of name has a fascinating story to it! The goddess Diana to save her from Bacchus the Wine God’s raging anger turned “Amethys” into a quartz statue. Bacchus shed tears of remorse, when he saw the statue, and his tears stained the stone transforming the statue into “Amethyst,” a new stone! The word “Amethustos” in Greek means, “not drunk”, this could also be the origin to the name Amethyst. The stone was therefore believed to have miraculous powers and ward off intoxication. Curiously wine goblets were often fashioned out
    of amethyst to keep the drinkers merrymaking for a while longer, and not be lost to the world in a drunken haze!

    The Amethyst is believed to transform lower negative energies to positive ones. Religions of the world have vouchsafed for the stone’s magical efficacy. The church has used amethysts in rosaries; Bishops wear the stone in their church regalia and rings to gain from its beneficial and healing, vibrations. The Tibetans believe amethysts play a
    significant part in their religious rituals.

    No wonder this stone’s popularity has frog leaped from being an exclusive item used only by the rich and the famous to becoming an important fashion accessory for our time.

    Amethysts can be set in rings, bracelets, chokers, bracelets or any other creative way, like embellishing lamp stands, jewelry watches, paperweights, the sky being the limit to the innovative ways it can be used!

    Last but not the least, Amethysts have become very popular for a very specific reason. Amethyst’s metaphysical properties have in recent times augmented its use in meditation and healing sessions in gem crystal therapy. Its clear nature causes
    energies to flow easily through it aiding one to attain serenity, gain inner peace and balance. It aids intuition and is considered the stone of wisdom. It sharpens thinking, and is also believed to be a common aid to relieving headaches, cure sugar imbalance, transform all lows and blues to a more positive and constructive state of mind. Its almost magical efficacy in reversing the negative emotions of anger and violence would make everyone wish to wear this gem birthstone or not!