Beaded jewelry

by Bina Saji

Whether your style is hip-hop, casual, trendy or formal. There is myriad scope for beaded jewellery which appeals to people in every age group. Doesn’t matter whether you are six years, sixteen, in your thirties or even sixties – beads belong to everyone. Depending on the occasion and your style – beads are suited for everyone.

Whether it is the silky, smooth, handcrafted original native American Heishi necklaces or the rare, high-priced black pearl strings or the pretty colorful glass bracelet, which costs just 2$ – they all have one thing in common – they are all beads! Beads are beautiful, exciting and come in several shapes and sizes ranging from large beads to tiny seed beads (like the seed pearls). Different shapes too – oblong, oval, round and everything in between sometimes even rounded square shapes. Beads are in vogue – from fashion magazines, offices and beaches- everyone is sporting beaded jewellery.

Beaded Jewelry some facts

Whether your style is hip-hop, casual, trendy or formal. There is myriad scope for beaded jewellery which appeals to people in every age group. Doesn’t matter whether you are six years, sixteen, in your thirties or even sixties – beads belong to everyone. Depending on the occasion and your style – beads are suited for everyone. For office wear, team a grey suit with pink pearls or co-ordinate your favorite cut-offs with a glass bead anklet – any style, any event – you can’t go wrong with beads! Now even men can be seen wearing chunky bead neck pieces or bracelets at the beach or even at fashion events – beads as accessories are fast becoming favorites and very much in vogue right now! Even body-piercing jewellery are beads.

Beaded Jewelry history

Beads are not new to the world of jewellery. In fact the oldest form of ornamentation was beads. Man picked up stones, bones and shells – smoothened the edges to give it shape; pierced it and threaded it with string to make it a neck piece. Pretty, colorful necklaces were worn by women and the men preferred wearing the bones of animals hunted by them. The native Americans smoothened and polished the beads to make the beautiful heishi strands that feel like silk. Beads have always been in fashion – beads were bartered and even used as money by the native Americans.

Black beads are said to ward off the evil eye and in India , the first piece of jewellery a child – as young as 3 months wears is a black bead bracelet or necklace. This is said to protect the child from negative vibes. The traditional mangalsutra (or the wedding necklace) in India – is specially designed with small black beads on gold wires. In some regions of India , corals are beaded to make the mangalsutra chain. In many other cultures beads are worn as talismans – sometimes a single bead is strung and tied as an armlet for protection.

Beads can be affordable or expensive, this could be a part of the reason they are liked by the masses and the classes. Since beads are available in a variety of materials from paper, glass to precious metals like silver and gold – it is possible for people to buy beaded jewellery depending on their budget. Beaded jewellery is the first piece of jewellery most children learn to make at school with paper balls or readymade beads. Prices of beaded jewellery range from a few dollars to several thousand dollars. There are beaded options for all price ranges and to suit all incomes.

Beaded Jewelry – Many designs

Beaded jewellery can be handcrafted, machine-made or even natural beads (such as pearls) strung together on a thread. In fact , making beaded jewellery is so easy that many creative people wear their own handcrafted beaded jewellery which gives them two advantages – it is cheaper than buying from a store and they get one-of-a kind pieces – which no one else probably has! Creating your own beaded jewellery requires just your imagination and simple items like clasps, string and readymade beads. Plenty of designs and tips are available on the internet.

Beads can be made from a variety of materials – both natural and man-made to create interesting, attractive and unique bracelets, armlets, anklets, necklaces etc. Most designers prefer to use beads to enhance the look of the main pendant or the centerpiece, especially in necklaces. Beads can be made of almost any material – paper, wood, stone, semi-precious gems, metals like brass and precious metals like gold and silver.

Machine-made or handcrafted – beaded jewellery in both, is widely offered for sale. Machine-made beaded jewellery is much cheaper since it is mass produced and is mainly acrylic, wood, plastic, glass and some cheaper colored gemstones which are churned out of the machines in large quantities. The advantage is that all are identical, cheap and great for home projects. The handcrafted beaded jewellery is mainly in silver, gold, precious and semi-precious gems. Silver beaded jewellery combined with red, blue green stones is often more affordable and can be bought off the street (although the silver used may not be 100% pure) and looks great with casual wear.

The higher priced handcrafted beaded jewellery is available in pure silver with precious gems, gold (18K or 22K) with precious gems or gold pendants. These are intricately beaded and some are even carved to make each piece unique. Designers of handcrafted jewellery also claim that no two pieces are ever alike, since absolute perfection is impossible in handcrafted jewellery. Also highly priced are the rarer natural pearl strands in uncommon colors like pink, lilac, silver, black etc.

So, whether you are young or old, man or woman, rich or not-so-rich, beads are for everyone. Get some beads and add to your style!.

An array of Beads

by Bina Shaji Kurup

Buying beaded jewellery, like buying any other jewellery is a joy and it can be great fun deciding what beaded jewellery will suit and reflect your personality. The choice available in beaded jewellery is vast, there are glass beads, crystal beads, wooden beads, plastic beads, precious and semi-precious stone beads and much more.

Organic Beads

Beaded jewellery is the oldest form of ornamentation and clay, bone and shell beads were among the earliest found forms of beads. Bone beads are, as the name suggests, made from bones of animals like camels and cows. They can also be carved and made into different shapes easily. The antique look bead is a finish on the bead which makes it look old and used. Most bone beads are handmade and getting uniform bone beads is difficult. Sometimes, the beads are made from artificial bone-resin also. One can find bone beads which are painted and it is possible to change the color of natural bone beads at home with the help of dyes or bleach to darken and lighten the colors of the bead. The horns of animals such as sheep, buffalo, and goat too are used to make beads -bone and horn beads can be a little expensive and have a hip-hop appeal.

Shells can be made into beads – in fact pearls too are beads. The mother-of-pearl, inside which the pearl grows, is also used to make beads as is the shell of the mollusk. Since shells come in a variety of hues, the beads too have colors depending on the shell used. These shells and mother-of-pearls are sometimes dyed to get beautiful pastel shades which do not occur naturally. The translucent mother-of-pearl is a symbol of good luck in Feng Shui, bringing prosperity and wealth. So if you have a friend who follows Feng Shui, then a mother-of-pearl bead bracelet or earrings can be the perfect gift.

Wood Beads

Carved or plain, painted or natural, wooden beads have a unique allure. Combine wood beads with clay for an ethnic design or with colored glass or rock beads for a casual look. Natural wood beads are made from all kinds of trees from the scented sandalwood to the cheap bamboo. Long lasting as they are, some wood beads are used to make rosaries and other spiritual neckwear, armlets and bracelets. The Rudrksha bead is a naturally growing bead which is believed to have religious and health benefits as well. The beautiful grains of Teak or Rosewood are brought out by polishing the beads and coating them with varnish. Some beads are left unpolished for a raw look and others are artificially colored.

The Egyptians used clay to make beads and till date the trend of making clay beads and baking them in a kiln continues. Polymer clay beads (artificial clay) are easy to make – even at home. Just make the required shapes or carve it and pop it into the oven to bake, but remember to make the holes for stringing them before you bake it! Remove and paint the surface if required. But these are quite heavy, so string them on a strong material like metal wire or leather.

Ceramic Beads

Bright blues with green designs, round, flat and plenty of other shapes – are the ceramic and porcelain beads. These are made with clay but with chemicals added for harder beads with a better finish. An assortment of clay, ceramic and porcelain beads are available on the internet. Coated with a range of colors and finishes from metallic, matte and even enamel, these are very versatile and some ceramic / porcelain beads can even be worn for formal occasions. Whereas the clay beads are earthier in nature, fragile and are great for a rustic or exotic look teamed with gypsy skirts.

Natural Beads

Natural beads can also be crafted from stone. Semi-precious stones and rock stones are both made into beads. Stones like Jasper, Hematite, Rhodonite, Onyx etc. are found in gorgeous colors and some have several colors spilling into each other – making the beads a visual delight. Minerals like calcium, iron, magnesium, copper etc in quartz, color the stones in a range of hues – blue, gold, pink, red, green and even black. Soapstone is a very soft stone that can be easily broken if handled roughly and soapstone beads should be worn carefully. Stone beads can be carved into various shapes – geometric, animal, abstracts and plenty more. They have a higher durability due to their inherent hardness as compared to clay, ceramic, shell or glass beads.

Plastic Beads

Plastic or Acrylic beads are normally used by kids, one would think. But the attractive plastic beads with different metallic colors or the pretty birthstone symbol acrylic bead or even the Japanese acrylic, handmade beads can be great for casual wear for people of every age. The advantage of plastic beads is that the colors are almost permanent since the dye is mixed into plastic material used to make the beads and plastic beads, which are not coated from the outside can be washed too. Lightweight and colored brightly in yellows, reds, blues and plenty of other single and multi-colors, plastic beads can be strung on regular thread unlike the heavier glass, metal or stone beads.

Alphabet Beads

Alphabet or Letter beads are great for projects which need names or any words. Alphabet beads come in several materials from silver to ceramic and most of these beads have larger holes than other beads, making it easier to string them to make special occasion name chains or bracelets.

Beads are extremely versatile and can be made from every possible material – natural and man made. Right from shells, wood, paper, seeds to precious and semi-precious gemstones, gold and silver and even fiber optic or artificial Cat’s eye which are man-made to create the same effect of chatoyancy as the cat’s eye stone.

The choice is never-ending and manufacturers of beaded jewellery and beads constantly conjure up new creations to lure everyone – man, woman and child into the fascinating world of beads.

More Bead resources
Bead And Button

Glass Beads

by Bina Shaji Kurup

One way to ensure your beads last for a longer while is to confirm that they are Fire-polished. This is a technique whereby beads are first encrusted with the required coating and then they are pulled through high temperatures, melting the surface of the glass bead ensuring the coating bonds with the glass making it permanent.

Glass beads are colorful , vibrant and have a history dating back to more than 5000 years. The tiny ray of light captured and reflected by glass makes for eye-catching vibrancy. They are usually available in all the colors one can imagine. Since glass is malleable, these beads come in dozens of different shapes – from perfect round to long ovals to animal shapes. Glass beads come in every size and several finishes like metallic polish, lacquered, iridescent and more. There are even imitation pearls made of glass and glass beads which look like stone beads. And while one may think that glass beads are cheap – there are glass beads which are expensive too – especially the crystal beads.

Glass Beads Treatments

In order to give glass beads attractive colors, they are treated to different coatings to achieve distinctive looks. Some beads have surface coatings – where colors are sprayed onto the beads after the beads are made, these polishes can be metallic, plastic or even fluorescent. Other beads are coated with colors in the centre of the bead (called Lined Beads) – the centre coating in the bead can be erased by the thread used to string the beads after a period of time. Glass beads which have silver lining at the centre too, after a while becomes black. Since glass measures low on the MOHS scale, it can easily be scratched leaving the beads ugly and ruining the effect of the piece.

Fire Polishing of Glass beads

One way to ensure your beads last for a longer while is to confirm that they are Fire-polished. This is a technique whereby beads are first encrusted with the required coating and then they are pulled through high temperatures, melting the surface of the glass bead ensuring the coating bonds with the glass making it permanent (although some coating materials can still be removed easily just by peeling it with your fingernails) This method is also used to add shine to plain glass beads. The disadvantage of using Fire-polished beads is that the melted bead may not be smooth and will have a grainy finish, which can give a unusual look to jewellery or make it look absolutely amateurish – this will largely depend on what design and what ornament you are planning to make. In fact fire-polished glass beads should be used for making economical beaded jewellery, which you wear for a while, get bored and make a new piece.

Formulated glass beads

Several types of formulated glass which are heavier, more resistant to heat, are used to make glass beads – Dichroic glass, Furnace Glass, Borosilicate glass (glass used to manufacture microwave safe containers) lead glass (used to manufacture crystal glass beads with facets and high brilliance), rod glass, sheet glass, even small fine colored rods, dots and glass dust etc. Regular glass you see on windows is not normally used to make glass beads because it does not have any additives to make it strong enough to withstand the entire process of making beads.

Choosing glass bead jewellery can be a mind-boggling task since there are dozens of different beads – right from crystal, lamp worked, seed, Dichroic etc. Made of sand and soda mixed with lime, glass has captivated the imagination of artisans all over the world – Asian countries, Italians and more recently the Americans. Although the essential ingredients are the same, there are several techniques and types of glass to make the beads. The method, type of glass and the finish determines the final look of the bead and its price.

Glass seed beads, extremely common, are made by several countries – Czech, Japan, India, France and Italy to name a few. These beads are usually tiny and come in a range of sizes ( all small sizes usually less than 6mm) and different shapes. The Japanese variety is more expensive than the ones from India since the finish is superior, beads are uniform and the colors are durable. Czech beads are slightly imperfect and this flaw gives jewellery a look that bespeaks character. Seed beads are great for delicate beaded jewellery and are widely available both at stores and on the web.

Dichroic Glass beads

Dichroic glass beads are essentially beads made of Dichroic glass. Here glass is coated with several thin layers – either metal coatings or others in a vacuum. These beads have the ability to reflect and transmit light giving rise to a beautiful play of colors. These beads are more expensive than the regular fire-polished beads because the Dichroic glass manufacturing process is more complex and requires specialized machinery to achieve the reflecting ( colors seen in front ) and transmitting (the mirror-image or opposite colors of the reflected colors) effect on glass.

So how does glass become into beads ? First the glass is heated till it becomes malleable. Then it is either wound around a metal wire (Wound Glass Beads) or the molten glass is drawn out with a bubble at the centre to serve as the hole (Drawn Glass Beads – Seed beads, Chevron beads are made in this method). Others have moulds with needles at the centre to make the hole, hot glass rods are pressed into them and the needles make the hole at the centre (Pressed or Molded Beads). Pressed beads can have different shapes depending on the molds. The most difficult method is the blown glass method, where hot glass is placed at one end of the blower and then manually blown into to make the bead.

Lampwork beads

The popular Lampwork beads are made by the wound glass method – so called because traditionally lamps were used to heat the glass surface – are glass beads which are first made by winding molten glass around metal wires and then fine shards of colored glass are fused onto it either during the winding process or later by re-heating the glass beads. Other examples of Wound Glass beads are Mosaic beads (several small pieces of colored glass are fused together to get beautiful, exotic look glass beads) Millefiori beads have layers of colored glass coated in sections over the bead giving rise to unusual patterns.

The hot beads are then rolled in hot sand to make them even or re-heated to coat them. Sometimes metallic dust or even enamel powder is used to coat the hot beads and even paint is applied as a coating to make the beads eye-catching.

Whether you like them smooth like silk or with uneven edges, glass beads are great when you need a casual look without spending too much

Metal Beads

by Bina Shaji Kurup

Metals beads are extremely popular in creating beaded jewellery. They can be segregated into precious metals – gold, platinum and silver and the cheaper non-precious metals like brass, copper and pewter or cast. Although the beads themselves can be plain, carved, with inlay work and in myriad shapes, the metal beads can be either hollow or solid and plated or non-plated beads.

Both Brass and Copper beads are available in several finishes – bright, matte, dull, and slightly tarnished for a rustic effect. Varnish is applied to metal beads to give them an antique, oxidized look.

Base metals are cheaper than the precious metals and have a distinct look of their own. Electroplating, gilting, and other techniques are often applied to coat the base-metal beads with gold and silver. Some base metals are able to take coatings easier than the other and although plated beads are cheaper than the pure gold or silver beads, knowing what metal is under the plating will help you make a decision whether you want to buy nickel-silver gold plated beads or pewter gilted beads. Each metal has its unique appeal and it is better to buy beads which are plated with a metal matching the color of the base bead, so when some beads lose their coating sooner than the other beads in the strand only close examination will show the difference.

Beads are mostly electroplated with gold or silver. The thickness of the plating determines the price of the bead and the plating thickness is measured in mils. Gold or silver overlay (also called Filling) work is also used to coat the beads. This is normally a thicker layer than plating and uses 14 karat or lesser gold for coating. Gilting is a process where gold polish or gold color is applied like paint onto the metal bead leaving a very thin layer of gold color on the bead..

Plated beads are cheaper than regular precious metal beads but their life is shorter and plating are never permanent. Most plated beads lose their color after a while and some even turn black due to the oxidization of the base metal bead. Brass, Copper and pewter take on coatings easily whereas nickel, steel, aluminum do not take on the coatings very well – meaning that a nickel bead which is gold plated will lose its shine faster than a Brass gold plated bead.

A little care in choosing beads can help your metal beaded jewellery last a little longer. For example, a brass gold-plated bead will not look too bad even after the gold plating wears off since the metal under the gold is a bright yellow. Similarly, a silver coated pewter bead will look like tarnished silver since pewter has a silvery color.

Another exciting metal plated jewellery option is the attractive Cloisonné beads – metal coated with glass or enamel and sometimes coated again with gold. These pretty beads are available as transparent, opaque, matte and several other finishes.

Plated bead jewellery looks genuine but needs care. Pewter, Brass, Copper, Silver with the exception of gold – all metals tarnish and blacken over time and the environmental conditions contribute to a faster or slower oxidization process. Care should be taken while polishing too since a rough hand can remove or chip the plating or gilt. And ammonia can dull the finish of plated beads. Metal beads are great for the antique look and manufacturers often darken parts of the bead to give an authentic look. Brass, copper and pewter allow for even plating unlike the other metals which maybe left with a patchy surface (that shows up in natural and sometimes artificial light) and these beads will lose their gold or silver appearance faster. Some plated beads are coated with varnish which slows the tarnish process considerably.

Be sure to check all the beads on your plated beaded jewellery regularly as some beads may lose their shine, be chipped or show the tarnish after a period of time. Most important, if you are allergic to metals like nickel then it is best to stay away from plated or metal beaded jewellery since most non-precious metal beaded jewellery contains some amount of nickel or make sure you inform the manufacturer of the allergy and buy products that are safe for you to use.

Crystal Beads

by Bina Shaji Kurup

Crystal is a term with dual meanings – one crystal refers to the naturally occurring colorless quartz (also called a semi-precious stone), which is termed as crystal quartz and the other is man-made crystal which is the subject of this article.

Crystal, sparkling with the effervescence of light dancing at its surface and a crystal bead captures this sparkle beautifully, flashing as light strikes its surface. Crystal is a term with dual meanings – one crystal refers to the naturally occurring colorless quartz (also called a semi-precious stone), which is termed as crystal quartz and the other is man-made crystal which is the subject of this article.

Crystal beads few facts

Crystal is mostly glass mixed with lead – the magic ingredient that gives crystal its sparkle. Lead makes the glass heavier and allows the glass to be cut and given facets, making it glint and twinkle – like a diamond. The sparkle of crystal is due to its higher refractory index which refers to the ability of a surface to bend light and the refraction index differs for each gemstone and other reflecting surfaces. Crystal beads reflect light from outside as well as from the inside of the crystal, making light refract more times so the crystal surface appears flash when it is moved even a little. Ordinary glass has a lower refractory index but when lead or lead oxide is added to it the refraction index of the glass increases and gives crystal its spark.

Crystal beads History

Crystal was made for the first time in the late 1600’s by George Ravenscroft and after much trial and error, he discovered the magic ingredient – lead which when added to glass made it stronger, harder, more malleable and of a much better quality than ordinary glass. Thus crystal came into being. It is used to manufacture not only jewellery but also plenty of home décor accessories and crystals decorate clothes too. Crystal beads (called Rhinestones) have been popular even before the Victorian times and were sometimes more expensive than real gemstones. The nobility wore crystal jewellery set in gold and good crystalware was a sign of good breeding. Even today, crystals are synonymous with class and elegance.

Swarovski Crystals

Of course, the price of crystal beads is considerably higher than ordinary glass beads but it is a small price to pay for the sparkle and luminescence of authentic crystal beads. Earlier, crystal beads were made manually but after Daniel Swarovski (of the famed Swarovski brand of crystals) created a machine to cut crystal, the company became the most well-known crystal manufacturer in the world. Although Crystal beads are manufactured by several companies throughout the world, the best crystal beads, the most popular and possibly the most expensive are made by Swarovski. And rightly so, since the crystal beads from Swarovski are the most perfect and accurately faceted beads – making every bead dance and shine like a diamond.
The revolutionary machine created by Daniel Swarovski ensures crystal beads are cut or faceted so that each facet is perfect. Each design has different facets, giving beads various shapes. The crystals can be cut, just like diamonds and each crystal bead is an exact duplicate of the other, this is a big advantage for designers who create jewellery and can be assured of uniformity throughout the piece. Computers are used to calculate statistics like the light reflection, slope, and other factors which give the beads their perfection and beauty. Other than Swarovski, Czech machine cut crystal beads and beads from Austria too are of a high quality but flaunting genuine Swarovski crystals makes a classy fashion statement.

How crystal beads are manufactured?

Each manufacturer has a recipe for making crystal and the amount of lead oxide added differs from as low as 10% (Fine Crystal) to more than 25% (Fully leaded crystal). Swarovski mixes almost 34% – making it the heaviest crystal bead. A couple of medium sized crystal beads of Swarovski can often weigh almost one gram. So, the easiest way to identify a genuine crystal bead would be to weigh it and the real crystal beads are sure to be heavier than the fakes.
Dyes or chemicals are added to glass to give crystal its colors and there are beautiful color palettes which make crystal beads look just like real gemstones – Purples to look like Amethysts, Green to match emeralds, yellows, pinks and plenty more. Swarovski especially has replicated actual gemstone colors in crystal beads which look like real gemstones from afar. Crystal beads have several finishes and the prices vary depending on the finish and color and manufacturer of the beads.

Crystals – Buying tips

Some rules to remember while buying crystal beads is to make sure there are no bubbles inside the bead, the bead should be heavy, the rim of the hole should be clean and preferably thin and the bicone area should be more transparent than the rim. Good quality beads should have a uniform color without scratches or patches on the surface and most important, when you turn the crystal beaded piece it should flash and glint as a sure sign of superior crystal beads.

Caring Tips

If your crystal jewellery becomes dull, polish it with a soft cloth and avoid using strong detergents, chemicals or hot water to clean your crystal beaded jewellery. Store your crystal jewellery separately and remember it is after all glass and can break if dropped or treated harshly. Crystal beaded jewellery is for occasional use and extreme heat, body sprays, perfumes etc can damage the delicate crystal.

Crystal beads add a touch of panache to any piece of jewellery, so go out and buy yourself some shining, glinting pieces of glass which will flash like diamonds!