Chain Making

by Ms Nandita Ray

As with all jewelry, chain making is not a simple process. It too involves a number of stages and it’s a long way from the raw material to the final finished product. Invention of the wire helped the goldsmiths to craft chains from gold and its alloys. Neolithic men found gold very pliant, soft and supple and they hammered and pounded it to take any form and shape and also stretch its length. Perhaps this was the birth of chain and chain making. Till the 18th century chain was handcrafted, laborious and time consuming. It still is. By twisting and turning the wire different shapes are formed and linking one link with the other forms the most basic chain.

Rousseau’s famous statement, “man is born free but everywhere he is in chains” is apt today, literally speaking! Chains around necks, around wrists, around waists on boots dangling from hip pockets, it has inundated the world of fashion. From bikers, to muscleman to fashion models sport chains, queen size to princess length, flashing and clanging all over. Chains form the core of jewelry dressing adding flavor and spice to the attire worn.

History of Chain Making

As with all jewelry, chain making is not a simple process. It too involves a number of stages and it’s a long way from the raw material to the final finished product. Invention of the wire helped the goldsmiths to craft chains from gold and its alloys. Neolithic men found gold very pliant, soft and supple and they hammered and pounded it to take any form and shape and also stretch its length. Perhaps this was the birth of chain and chain making. Till the 18th century chain was handcrafted, laborious and time consuming. It still is. By twisting and turning the wire different shapes are formed and linking one link with the other forms the most basic chain. Romans and Persians were adept at chain making. They used chains on bridles of horses, on vests for protection in war, on doors, in anchors and jewelry; chain making was a well practiced art. The wires were made into loops and connected to each other to form chains which were used to especially on armor. The loops were sown on vests worn by soldiers. Chains constructed in this fashion with interlocking links are called chain maille /mail or chain armor. This was the common term used in the medieval times to indicate flat chains.

Before machines took over, goldsmiths used to hand make most chains.
They would hammer the metal, gold or silver into flat strips. Then they would draw or pull these strips of metal through a number of dies to form wires. The wire which was reduced to the diameter or thickness required. The wire was then wound around a mandrel forming loops. Mandrel is used to shape metal into a desired size or shape by using a tiny hammer. Then it was cut through the looped wire. Then they would interlock the loops; bend each link to close it.
Then use heat to solder each joint. And this process was continued till the desired length is completed.

Such chains and many even today, are handcrafted. Hand fabrication is indispensable in any form of jewelry making. Delicate touches, mounting difficult settings or attaching beads need skilled fingers. Therefore hand crafting cannot be totally discontinued. However demand requires mass production. Mechanization was the obvious answer and this led Jacques de Vaucanson, a French man in 1750, to invent a machine which made U shaped wire for mesh chain. This progressed into a chain making machine in 1782. Pedaling generated power and this machine was highly sought by goldsmiths and craftsmen. By the 1800’s different types of chain making machines were designed, all based on this basic model. In 1870, this method of chain making caught the eyes of Europeans and Americans. In 1893 in Chicago World Exposition, Americans for the first time exhibited their model of chain making machine which was decidedly better. It was based on better technology, possessed speed and was sophisticated. During the sixties Italians became and still remain masters of chain making and chain making machines.

Chain making machines

There are two main types of chain making machines. The cable machine and the curb chain making machine.

Cable machine Process

The first step is to feed/introduce wire into a set of straightening rollers.  It then passes into a guide and a gripper section.This chamber guides it into a chamber called ‘stop’. In this section the wire length is measured and the size of the link established. This is the first link of the chain. The next pierce of wire is measured and is passed through this first link to form a part of the chain. In this way links are measured and made and interlocked.  A cutter cuts the wire from the feed stock a forming tooth slides out and pushes on the wire to shape it into a U. After the U is formed, a set of jaw like clamps holds the wire in place and closes the link to complete the shape. The link is given a complete 90 degrees turnabout and the next link making process starts.

Curb Making Machine

At first the wire is introduced into a loop like tool. Ii is twisted and coiled into a spiral. As the loop revolves the spiral wire is put through the previous loop.
The loop is closed and a set of jaw like scissors snap and cuts off the spiral. This link is rotated and the next spiral is made and this process continues till the desired length is acquired.

Snake Chain Making Machine

This machine makes chains from flat stock.

Ball Chain Making Machine

This machine is capable of making ball chains from both wire and flat stock.

Firago Chain Machine

This machine is able to make two sizes of link since it has two heads.

Platinum Chain making

Platinum chain making was not easy since it is a hard metal which is not easy to work with. For many years only pliant metals like gold, silver, copper were made into chains. To full fill the need for white metal was filled with white gold, rhodium plating or silver. During the nineties, the demand for high end products like platinum was greatly desired and hence manufacturers started finding ways to make platinum chains. Some started plating the wire with copper to make it greasy and slippery as it passed through the machine. This was done so as not to hurt the tools. After this the copper was laboriously stripped off the wire. It was time consuming and not very profitable. So some manufacturers started chrome plating their tooling system. Today, improved grades of carbide has eased the problems not cured it completely. Soldering the links is another problem. Heat damages the color and matching the color is difficult. It also gets tarnished. A number of methods were used to resolve the problem. The coming of the laser welding machine is a boon. It is a clean weld as it is suited for the thermal grade of the platinum.
Some chains are hand made. Glass beads, plastic and resin beads are strung by hand. Pearls are also (mostly) hand strung. Bead made from organic material like wood, shell, bones, clay even fake ivory are also hand fabricated. Some chains made from gold are also hand fabricated.

Problems encountered

Though machines do the elementary work the finished product has to be hand done.The finished product is the result of skilled fingers and toiling hands as they decorate, set and polish the chain to its final finished stage. Heat and soldering required for completing the final product.

Some chain designs like herring bone require a flattened profile and this has to be done by rolling the chain on a rolling mill.

Secondary operations are needed to make the chain loose and flexible in order to sit properly around the neck.

Decorations like diamond cut are added by using a special machine.

Tools will wear and tear.

Machines are expensive to maintain in tip top condition.

Some parts might not be easily available, especially if it’s of an older machine.

It turns out to be expensive unless used for mass production.

Benefits of Chain making Machines

Chains can be massed produced. Variety of designs can be made.Complex chains can be made from stamped components which are bent and then interlocked.

It allows the making of thin and light hollow chains.

Chains can be made in all karats of gold.

It saves time as a number of chains can be made quickly and accurately.

It is labor and cost effective.

In up to date modern machines, which are very expensive, links are automatically welded by laser or micro plasma welding torch.

Wires can be round, oval or square and can be used in machines with ease.

Length of chains

Chains can be made to order in the length one desires. However there are two acceptable lengths of chains, the Princess length which is 18″ long and the Rope length which is 45″ or 120″ long. A number of contemporary lengths are available; 15″, 20″, 25″ etc. Chains are also sold by foot or by spool. This system is useful for mass production.

Types of chains

Variety of designs run riot in the fashion world of chains. Broad, thin, light, heavy, ornamental, simple, intricate, Princess or Rope, flat or cylindrical, lots of styles and motifs abound. Here are some contemporary styles:Box chain: – a chain with box like wide squares.
Byzantine chain: –a type of weave which is an old world style and is a chain with round links which create an intricate design that forms a tube. This design is also called birdcage design, idiot box and fool’s dilemma.
Cable chain: – a chain with round links all of the same size.
Curb chain: – a chain with oval links that are twisted to lie flat.
Figaro chain: – a pretty popular design that has two or three small round links with and long oval link. This is a famous Italian design.
Herringbone chain: – a chain with resembles fish bones being thin, small and slanting links that lie flat. Also resembles a centipede.
Fob chain: – a thick chain with an ornamental pendant or seal or charm attached to it.
Mesh: – thin, delicate, gauzy looking mesh woven from very fine wire, resembling a fabric, like chain.
Omega: – a chain that lies flat and is solid and heavy and the surface made up of thick links.
Multilayered chain: – a number of thin delicate, soft and pliant chains all strung from two clasps form a thick layered look.

These are some of the common styles of chains available and in no way does this write up sum up the gamut of designs available internationally.

Use chains as adornment. Dress up your purse with a dangling bead chain or have a pearl or silver chain protecting your sunglasses or adding color to your attire. Key chain, wallet chain, jacket chain, boot chain, chain swinging from ear lobes, finger rings with chains, bracelets with chains. Chains can be used easily. Be innovative. Chain up or shackle up. Start a chain reaction.

Gold Metal Beads

by Binasaji

Glittering bright, gold beads are for those who are enticed by the lure of the yellow metal and can afford it – for gold is the most expensive metal (other than Platinum). Gold beads look great whether they are teamed with precious gems or just by themselves. The history and myths related to gold are myriad and gold beaded jewellery serves dual purposes of ornamentation and as a secure investment for the future.

Beaded gold jewelry can be heavy or light and gold beads weigh quite a bit especially if they are solid. If you do not prefer traditional designs in gold beaded jewelry, plenty of designers offer economical, lightweight, contemporary patterns in gold beaded jewelry designs for office wear or at events where heavy beaded gold ornaments can look ostentatious.

Fast Facts

Just like silver, gold too is a soft metal – a slight application of force and pure gold bends or a light knock can dent it. This property of gold has advantages and disadvantages. The advantage is that gold can be drawn into wires which thinner than sewing thread and gauzy, diaphanous sheets. Even after it is drawn into such flimsy wires or sheets, it is possible to work with the metal. Skilful artists who craft the delicate filigreed gold beads use this property of gold to make eye-catching patterns.

Gold beaded jewellery is strung together with either metal wires or chains, thick or thin cords or other materials like foxtail. The stringing material used depends on the size of the hole. A larger hole with require a stronger and thicker cord to balance the bead and a thinner holed gold bead can be balanced with a thin strong wire. Gold is extremely malleable and is usually mixed with other metals to give it strength and durability. Gold beaded jewellery will never tarnish or blacken unlike silver nor will it ever depreciate in value. In fact, good quality gold beaded ornaments will always appreciate in value as the price of gold is always headed north!

Every country has its own traditional gold beaded jewellery and the designs of the beaded jewellery vary from region to region. For example a Moslem country will not have designs or images depicting living creatures like animals etc. whereas a Bali gold bead will predominantly have nature symbols. In India , gold beaded jewellery is compulsory for Hindu marriages. Gold, black and sometimes red beads are combined to create the Mangalsutra (symbol of a Hindu married woman).

Purity of Gold

Gold used in jewellery is never pure – other metals are added to it before making ornaments. The amount of metal mixed into pure gold reduces its purity and “Karat” measures the resultant purity of the gold. An easy method to understand the concept of Karats (K) is to divide gold in 24 parts – pure or fine gold is classified as 24 Karats which signifies 100% purity. Likewise 18 Karat gold has 18 parts of fine gold and 6% of other metals giving it a purity of approximately 75%. Other popular gold bead karatage is 14 K and 22 K.The current trend to identify purity, guaranteed by the manufacturer is Hallmarked Gold. Gold beaded jewellery carrying this mark have the guarantee of purity by either the World Gold Council or other reputed international manufacturers.

Most gold beaded jewelry, if bought from well-know stores will be Hallmarked with the Karats ( either 18K or 22K etc.) mentioned on the piece.

Popular Gold Bead Types

A quick search on the internet throws up millions of sites offering gold beaded jewelry and gold beads for creating jewelry at home – authentic vintage gold beaded jewelry, modern lightweight designs, ethnic heavy wedding ornaments, Bali Gold beads, gold-filled beads, gold-covered beads, gold-vermeil beads etc. Different companies have interesting names for their gold beads and research is recommended for those who would like to buy their gold beaded jewelry online.

Hollow gold beads are heavier than similar beads made of other precious metals. Some hollow gold beads are sometimes filled with lacquer or other materials to make them more durable. If the piece that has captivated you, uses hollow beads, ensure they are not 22K or 24K – since 22K gold is not as hard as either 14K or 18K gold beads and hollow gold beads, in particular need to have a higher mix of other metals to increase the durability and strength of the bead, so it does not become de-shaped. Hollow beads are not suitable for Bangles, rings and many stores do not carry hollow beaded jewelry for these jewelry items.

Gold – filled or Rolled Gold beads are usually 14 karat gold beads which have been heated and pressure bonded to a base-metal centre (such as nickel) and the gold layer is a thick coating of 14k gold which will not come off as time passes. The advantage is that gold filled beads are stronger and look good even after years of use. The layer of gold is much thicker than electroplating and hence gold-filled beads are preferred to plated or even gold vermeil. Recently, gold filled beads carry a marking – for example a 12K/20 marking signifies 5% or one twentieth of the entire weight of the bead is in 12K gold.

Gold Vermeil is a technique of applying a thin coating of gold (usually 14K) but thicker than electroplated gold coating on a sterling silver bead. These are less expensive tthan pure gold beads and require care while using since the vermeil plating can come off, if treated harshly.

Another type of gold bead is the Cloisonné bead. Gold wires are soldered together to form a bead and the centre is filled with enamel and polished. Cheaper Cloisonné beads using wires of metals like silver, copper, nickel are also popular.

Precious metal clay is extremely pliable and some handmade jewellery artists utilize this clay to make delicate gold beaded jewellery with or without precious stones embedded into it. 22K gold dust or small particles gold are mixed with water and binders. After the required pattern has been formed, the clay is fired and only the gold bead remains – molded into the set design. This is a relatively new technique but the purity of gold is higher and very interesting beaded jewellery pieces can be created with precious metal clay.

Colors of Gold

Gold has had a yellow color for centuries, but enterprising manufacturers have invented gold beaded jewellery in several other colors by increasing the quantity of other metals added to gold – to bring out the hues of the added metal. Colored gold requires more metal addition and the gold beaded jewellery and the purity is either 18K or lower.Colored gold beaded jewellery (rose gold, green gold, and white gold) have different metals mixed into gold to give them the required hue. Extra Copper makes gold rose colored while Zinc adds a greenish tinge and a higher percentage of Nickel makes gold white.

White polish called Rhodium polish is often applied on parts of the gold bead making the bead glint. Rhodium polish brings out the yellow color beautifully by highlighting the contrast of yellow and white. From afar, a Rhodium polished piece can pass of as diamonds in the gold beads!

Gold beaded jewellery with a dash of enamel coating in colors ranging from red, blue to green can add color to the yellow of the metal. Multi-colored enamel coated gold jewellery can be teamed with several outfits – the coating doesn’t last for more than a couple of years. This is a great way to add color to pieces which do not incorporate any gemstones.

A noble metal considered to be as immortal as the gods – gold jewellery occupies the top spot in every woman’s collection. If the design you own is old and uninspiring, get a brand new creation made of the same gold by having it melted and crafted it into another ornament.

Circular Barbells

by RITIKA CHANGRANI

Circular barbells are also known as horseshoe barbells. However, some horseshoe barbells are U-shaped instead of the usual circle. This horseshoe shaped design was all the rage in the early 1990s but has now faded out.

The barbells that are curved into a circular shape are called circular barbells. It is in the form of an incomplete circle (typically three quarters of a circle) fitted with balls at either end with a small gap between them.

Circular barbells are also known as horseshoe barbells. However, some horseshoe barbells are U-shaped instead of the usual circle. This horseshoe shaped design was all the rage in the early 1990s but has now faded out.

A circular barbell is most apt for piercing where captive bead rings can be worn. Circular barbells are usually heavier than captive bead rings especially because of the balls, and so it may not be a good idea to use it for all types of new piercing.

Circular barbells are most commonly found in eyebrow, nose (especially septum), nipple, naval, ear lobe, ear cartilage, cheek, tongue and genital piercing. There are different types of circular barbells, each with different barbell diameters to suit the various types of piercing.

Circular barbells for the Nose

There are quite a few options available for nose piercing. You can have a circular barbell between the nostrils, a simple stud or a barbell at the bridge.

For new piercing, it’s best not to experiment with the funky bone or horn tusks. You need a good septum retainer for nasal septum piercing. A circular barbell works very well at this stage. It is a comfortable, discreet and simple way to start. You must select a circular barbell in a diameter that flatters your facial features. The proportional rings, especially those with a 1/2″ or 7/16″ diameters are very popular. However, what is more important is the look you want and your nose. Here you will have a lot of variety in ball sizes. Select one carefully as this can dramatically change the look of your face.

For the Eyebrow

Eyebrow piercing was introduced by the punk generation of the 1970s. It is usually done vertically. Circular barbells are very popular to be worn in eyebrow piercing especially at the outer end of the brow.

For the Lip / Labret

Introduced by early African tribes, lip/labret piercing have become a style statement today with teens and adults alike. This type of piercing is also known as Madonna and Monroe named after the divas who flaunted them. Circular barbells are apt for such piercing. They add a whole new dimension to the face. It’s simple, highly appealing with hardly any chances of infection, and hence quite safe.

For the Ear

Circular barbells are often worn in ear lobe as well as ear cartilage piercing. It is so popular that people don’t stop at one. A large number of people opt for 3 – 4 piercing in each ear and wear circular barbells of varying diameters.

For the Nipple

Nipple piercing in males can be dated back to the era of the Roman centurions. In the 14th century, Queen Isabella introduced a style of dressing that exposed the nipple. It was then that women started adorning their nipple with rings and barbells.

For nipple piercing, circular barbells are the perfect type of jewelry. The diameter obviously differs for men and women. For men, 14 gauges of larger barbells are used and 12 gauge or larger is the preferred size for women.

Types of Circular Barbells

One is spoiled for choice when it comes to selecting circular barbells. The diameter of course depends on a number of factors like type of piercing, position etc. There is a huge variety of designs and materials that circular barbells are available in. Some of the more common ones are:

– 14K Gold
– 18K Gold
– Sterling Silver
– Surgical Stainless Steel
– Acrylic
– Niobium
– Titanium

Barbell Ends

The most common circular barbell ends are round balls. They may be of gold, stainless steel, acrylic or titanium. However, this is not where it ends. Today you have a large selection of barbell ends to choose from. Gemstones and jewels are set in circular barbell ends of gold and silver. Spikes, dice, skulls and a host of other complex shapes are also available as barbell ends. It adds a whole new look to your circular barbell.

For new piercing, it is advisable to opt for regular balls as barbells ends since the other shapes are often heavier and hence uncomfortable.

Removal of Circular Barbells

In a circular barbell, at least one end unscrews. It should be removed with great care and caution. Take gauze and seize one end of the barbell. The gauze will strengthen your grip. Using your other hand, gently unscrew the ball at the other end. To help the jewelry slide easily from the skin, you can lubricate the metal post.

Circular barbells are the preferred jewelry option for most types of piercing as they are easy to fit and look extremely stylish. With the huge variety of designs available, you can choose one that suits your own style and flaunt it to your heart’s content!

Silicone Belly Rings

by RITIKA CHANGRANI

Sport Silicone belly rings and get noticed. If you like the concept of body piercing – They are safe. They come in a variety of colors and designs. They will meet your individualistic taste perfectly. Take a small step to feeling good about yourself – Go Silicone!

Lets start with what exactly silicone is. Don’t confuse it with Silicon… there is a slight difference. In layman’s terms, Silicone is made up of a group of compounds of alternating silicon and oxygen atoms. This combination is water resistant and can handle large variations in temperature. Silicones are used in a variety of applications since they are reliable, durable and easy to handle. The body can accept this material as it can resist body fluid and can be shaped as per requirement.

Silicone belly rings are very popular because they come in a large variety of colors, designs, shapes and sizes. If you surf the net for silicone belly rings or silicone jewellery you will find literally hundreds of designs in very many combinations and designs. It would be difficult to list all of them for you. At a glance, you would find bubble balls, beads, bands, glow in the dark designs, spiky sphere balls in a multitude of colors and a variety of others.

Belly rings have been around long before you and me arrived on the scene. They existed in the Aztec times and were quite popular during the Inca Period. Throughout the ancient world, the Egyptians and other tribes used body piercing as a symbolic representation of bravery in battle, spiritual connections with god, status in society among other things. There is evidence that the Romans pierced their nipples to attach their capes when they went to fight, the Egyptian royalty pierced their navels and the Native Americans used body piercing in their coming-of-age ceremonies.

Till the 1980’s, earlobes were the only parts that were pierced as a fashion statement. The Punk scene brought in piercing of the lips, tongue, brows, nipples etc. Navel piercing sneaked its way in when super models flaunted their belly jewels at world famous fashion extravaganzas. The media has played a big part in propagating the concept of navel piercing. Those who did body piercing realized that they were not the only ones and those who were not even aware that such a thing existed were now enlightened!

There are a lot of curious questions about why one uses belly rings or navel piercing. There is something really sensual about a navel or belly ring, it says – “look at me”, as it nestles on the planes of the belly and the soft curve of the waist. It is considered an erogenous zone and there are women who say that it makes them feel beautiful, it’s daring and it’s a little different from the usual. It’s your way of saying “I love me so I do something special for me”.

Silicone belly rings do just that. With the variety of designs available in silicone, it is one of the best options when it comes to selecting belly rings.

Why Silicone?

– Variety – Being a highly flexible substance, silicone can be crafted into almost any shape. So, you can get really creative with Silicone belly rings.

– Colors – Silicone can be created to form single or multi-colored belly rings. So you have an unlimited choice of colors!

– Low Budget – Silicone is an inexpensive yet trendy alternative to gold and platinum. You needn’t empty your wallet to look good. Silicone belly rings are quite cheap and hence more accessible.

There are some things to be kept in mind if you are going in for belly rings. These are important so you don’t end up with a bad infection instead of a belly ring or jewel. Your navel must have a defined lip where the piercing can be done. Your belly button is a depressed scar, which manages to collect dirt over time. It needs proper cleaning and drying or there are chances of fungal infections. Once you pierce it, you have to take extra care and you have to follow a very strict hygiene and cleaning routine or you could end up with problems on your hands.

It is important that you get all the information regarding navel piercing, its care and a list of things that you may encounter during the healing process. Consult the doctor at every stage so that you know that the healing is on the right track and not harboring some other infection.

It is a good idea to start with navel jewels. They look really nice, heal quickly and once healed you can change them to match your clothes. With rings you may have to use pliers, which may prove to be difficult.

If you are pregnant, then by the sixth month you may have to change the ring for a bigger one or go in for a bit of fishing line which will keep the piercing open till you are able to re insert your ring. If it has been removed then the piercing can be re-opened using a taper pin but do consult your doctor for this.

There are a lot of options available to you in terms of silicone belly rings. Surf the net, talk to your friends who have done body piercing. Sporting a hip accessory is no longer an expensive option with silicon belly rings here for you!

Stainless Steel Tongue Rings

by Ritika

Stainless steel tongue rings are the preferred choice for tongue piercing as they are very safe, can be made into a number of designs and most importantly, are easy on the pocket. Today body piercing is becoming something of a status symbol in contemporary society. High quality steel and other material just means that your options boil down to a simple choice of whether one wants to do tongue piercing or not. Tongue piercing saw its birth around the 1980s. Generally rings are not used but then it all depends on what your personal taste and style quotient is. If you are going in for tongue rings then it is best to get professional advice and ensure that you go to a qualified person to get it done.

Stainless steel tongue rings are the preferred choice for tongue piercing as they are very safe, can be made into a number of designs and most importantly, are easy on the pocket.

Today body piercing is becoming something of a status symbol in contemporary society. High quality steel and other material just means that your options boil down to a simple choice of whether one wants to do tongue piercing or not. Tongue piercing saw its birth around the 1980’s. Generally rings are not used but then it all depends on what your personal taste and style quotient is. If you are going in for tongue rings then it is best to get professional advice and ensure that you go to a qualified person to get it done. This way you get what you want and you don’t get the associated problems that go with this type of work.

Tongue piercing also goes by names like tongue ring etc which is a bit of a misnomer as very rarely are rings worn. Paired or tongue piercing that is side by side is also commonly known as venom piercing or viper bites, with reference to the fangs of a snake. Ritual tongue piercing has been noticed in the Aztec and Maya cultures where there are illustrations showing priests piercing the tongue and drawing blood or passing rough cords through the hole which is designed to inflict pain. However there is no evidence of permanent or long-term tongue piercing in the culture.

Once you get the piercing done, remember that swelling occurs approx three to seven days after and it can get really uncomfortable. Your best bet to numb the discomfort a little bit is to have lots of cold drinks, suck on ice cubes, etc. all of which help to mitigate the swelling and soreness, and Ibuprofen works very well also. Keep in mind that the swelling must be accommodated for by using a longer piece of initial jewelry, which can then be replaced by a shorter piece of jewelry so that the healed piercing prevents damage to the teeth and gums.

Surgical stainless steel is the ideal choice when it comes to metals for tongue piercing. Stainless steel rarely, if ever, causes any irritation or allergic reactions at the site of the piercing. The type of stainless steel called 316L used to make high quality stainless steel tongue rings is the preferred option, as this material does not corrode that easily.

As with any radical style of dressing, tongue rings too have there own share of misconceptions and myths which are in some part true and others are pure fiction. One of the most common misconceptions going around about tongue piercing is that since the mouth is dirty the piecing will be prone to frequent infections and healing will be a long process. This is true that that mouth has huge amounts of bacteria but the saliva is more that enough to counteract this infection and it promotes healing. Use of a mouthwash reduces the chances of infection.

With piercing of any kind there is always a minor risk of heavy bleeding if a vein is hit; but if you ensure that a qualified piercer is doing a good job then there should be no problem avoiding the blood vessels. Some bleeding is of course, normal but uncontrolled bleeding must be checked by a proper doctor. Be prepared to have your tongue ring a bit off center, which is due to the placement of the frenulum dead center on the tongue. Sometimes this crooked look can be noticeable but more often than not goes unnoticed.

Tooth and gum damage are risks that can be minimized by correct placement of the ring. Ensure that jewelry used is sized correctly and don’t play with the tongue ring. Too big a ring may cause problems with your teeth. The tongue has an exceptional ability to heal fast so piercing close quickly sometimes as fast as a few days.

Stainless Steel tongue rings will not rust or cause certain problems like other traditionally used alloys. Stainless steel jewellery manufacturers ensure that the steel used is high grade, non magnetic and looks similar to platinum but is a cheaper option. Steel can also be molded and this gives the manufacturers the option of creating many designs and many styles. If the concept is ok with you and you are not the queasy kind of person then go in for stainless steel tongue rings. You will be making a statement of your own.

Look up the net and you will find stainless steel rings in a variety of styles, shapes, sizes and brands. There are styles to suit varied personalities and you will also get a lot of information on where to go and what precautions you need to be aware of. So flaunt your tongue piercing with a stylized tongue ring today!

The Sparkle of Jewelry in the Roman Empire

by Shalini Kagal

Jewelry designs and trends during Roman empire period – The strange thing is that the Romans were when the empire first began, rather austere in their tastes – their food, their clothes, their ornaments. What they wore was more functional rather than flaunting. Then came the army’s success as they began to spread out and conquer. Soon, Spartan gave way to Style. This could have been due to two reasons. One, the fact that they saw a new world out there where many dressed in a more resplendent manner and flaunted jewelry. Two, the fact that very often they carried back the spoils of war of which gold and precious stones formed a part. By the first century B.C., there was a variety of jewelry available with a wide choice of designs.

The first foray was probably into gold as this was the metal that they brought back most often from their conquests. Then, the trend grew to embrace both Greek and Eastern influences. So we see beads made of glass, colored stones and the use of silver as well as the rare bronze. After all, according to Homer, wasn’t this the metal used to fashion Achilles’ shield? We also see the use of pearls and bone.

It all started with piercing – but piercing with a purpose. The men pierced themselves as a show of strength. If they pierced their nipples, it symbolized both their loyalty to their empire as well as being a symbol of power. In fact the gladiators would pierce various parts of their body believing that this was supposed to protect them from injuries.

As interest in jewelry grew, the early designs show a marked leaning towards the Greek styles. However, with time, a more distinctive Roman style seems to emerge. The Romans had a partiality for stones like emeralds, sapphires, rubies and topaz. They also had a choice of pendants which were encased in gold and were cameos. Some of them were made to be large enough to hold a bit of perfume. These were in full display with the ladies who came to watch the chariot races as they began to get more popular in Rome. The horses too, especially the ones that took part in the races, were decked out in pearls and stones woven into their tails and their manes. The young boys usually wore a neck chain or a ‘bulla’ which had a small pouch that contained protective amulets.

The Romans were very conscious of their status in society. So clothes became important items of demarcation between the various classes – between those born free and the slaves, as well as the many classes in polite society. Jewelry therefore became a very important status symbol together with clothing to make this distinction.

One could see a lot of gold hemispherical shapes which were made into earrings, necklaces or bracelets. The men usually were a little more subtle and their jewelry was constrained to one finger ring. At first these rings were made of iron, then of gold. Then precious stones were used for rings as were semiprecious stones like chalcedony and carnelian. The trend grew however and there were some Roman men who wore a ring on every finger. Roman women were said to wear friendship rings as well. Both men and women wore carved rings – the stone was often carved so it would facilitate sealing documents. The ring was pressed into hot wax and the document sealed. This practice continued well into the later times when kings used this method to seal anything.

The trend of relief where silver ornaments and vessels was concerned was practiced in the fourth century B.C. This type of ornamentation was done a lot in the Greek era and it permeated all silverwork right through the Roman civilization.

The most popular item of jewelry by far however, was the brooch. This was what held most Roman clothing together. It really was an ornamental safety pin but the Romans raised it to a work of art. In fact, you can find variations of it in far flung parts of the Roman Empire. What was unique at that point of time was the clasp or the ‘fibula’. Though the brooches served a very functional purpose – that of holding clothing together – they were beautifully made. There were laurel leaves, branches of palms, winged eagles and goddesses.

From what has been unearthed and is now in the museums, one realizes that over two centuries ago, this empire had jewelry that used diamonds from India and sapphires from Sri Lanka. In the England of the Roman era, ‘jet’ or fossilized wood was used to make jewelry. The ancient Romans used a lot of amber in their jewelry as well. Amber is the resin from fossilized trees and it was referred to as the ‘gold of the north’. One sees that a lot of ornaments fashioned out of amber were made during the second century B.C. Many of the ancient civilizations made jewelry out of amber and they were much-prized possessions. Remains of amber workshops have been found in parts of Europe.

The women wore beautifully designed jewelry in their ears, fingers, around their necks, on their clothes and even in their hair! As well designed as their brooches and clothes pins were, equally so were their jeweled hair pins. Of course, some of the jewelry was worn by the superstitious – and there were many of them – to ward off what they called the ‘evil eye’.

Many of the Roman designs and ideas were spread through their conquests of places near and far and many just spread and got mixed with the neighboring cultures after the decline of the Roman Empire. Soon, one saw a change from a more barbaric and resplendent taste in jewelry in the conquered regions to a more understated, elegant one.
So even though the ‘grandeur that was Rome’, sung about by poets and philosophers waned, their contribution to the world of jewelry design did not. It grew, changed and flourished all over the world.