History of Navajo jewelry

    History of Navajo jewelry

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    History of Navajo jewelry

    by Binasaji

    Jewellery played an important part in native American lives. Several pieces dating back to over 150 years have been found areas of Arizona and other southwestern states. Shells adorned with images of snakes and frogs (both symbolizing fertility) were used as bracelets. The use of Turquoise is common in most of the jewellery.

    Tall and proud wearing Skin, Leather, Feathers, Silver and Turquoise. Able to communicate with the Air and water. Skilful hunters. The Indians – Hopi, Navajo, Sioux, Zuni, Chippewa, Apache, Cheyenne, Shawnee and plenty more. Scattered all over Mexico and America, with a concentration in Arizona in the Navajo Reservation, these proud people were known for their fighting skills and for their creativity. The Native Americans loved to adorn themselves. Shells, Bones were carved and made into neckwear. Feathers and even Quills were strung together to create headgear. Colorful shells, small stones, flowers and leaves were crushed and used for body painting. The Indians loved color and were one with Mother Nature.

    Jewellery played an important part in their lives. Several pieces dating back to over 150 years have been found areas of Arizona and other southwestern states. Shells adorned with images of snakes and frogs (both symbolizing fertility) were used as bracelets. The use of Turquoise is common in most of the Jewellery. In fact, Native Jewellery has enabled historians to learn a great deal about the life and social culture of the Native Indians. Jewellery was also traded in exchange for brides, goods, food etc. between tribes.

    Jewellery was not only a form of ornamentation but different pieces symbolized various things in an Indian’s life. It indicated the position of the person in the clan – the richest, the healers, the hunters etc. Different tribes had distinctive designs and it was possible to know the tribe just by looking at a person’s ornamentation.

    The Indians were in union with nature and believed in signs sent to warn them or inform them about the future. For e.g.. if a snake was sighted it was a sign of fertile times, the bear was a symbol of good luck and bears were rarely killed by the Navajos, except in self-defense. The Bearclaw, bear tooth etc. were harvested from dead animals and worn for good luck and positive energy. The Native Americans were even named after animals and believed that their animal name would protect them from harm.

    The first form of Indian Jewellery is Beads, also called Heishi. Beads were used for creating Jewellery before the Indians learnt to craft silver. Bone, wood, shells were some of the natural items used to make beads, which were freely traded amongst the tribes and used for ornamentation as well. The Indians carved these beads till they were smooth as silk to touch. It is amazing how these skilful people polished the beads to a high gloss and silken finish with their hands and natural materials available to them. The beads were expertly carved with different designs of the Indians – animals, old folklore people etc. They were sometimes also made into beautiful garments for the Chiefs of the tribes and for other special occasions too. These Heishi necklaces are very sought after by collectors of Navajo Jewellery.

    Jewellery made of Turquoise and Silver is the imagery associated with Navajo Jewellery. Mined by the Natives, Turquoise was found in abundance in Arizona, Mexico etc. – the strongholds of the Native American. This pretty blue stone was considered to be a gift from the sky. Carved Turquoise beads were the early form of the prized Navajo Jewellery. This blue stone was also used for good luck and happiness. Turquoise is considered a healing stone, even today. Good gems were used for ceremonial purposes also and have also been found embedded in breastplates of the warrior Indians.

    The Indians learnt the art of using Silver for Jewellery from the Mexicans and soon silversmithing led to the beautiful combination of Turquoise and Silver – the trademark of the Navajos. Although most Indian tribes create Jewellery with Silver and Turquoise, the Navajos were the first to become silversmiths and hence the name Navajo Jewellery. Learnt by an Navajo by the name of Atsidi Sani, from the Mexicans, silversmithing was an art known only to the Navajo’s for almost 25 years (hence the name Navajo Jewellery). Later, the other Indian tribes like the Hopi, Zuni etc, learned this skill. Several varieties of silver are used to make this Jewellery – sterling silver (92% purity silver), coin silver (90% purity, refers to currency melted to make silver) and even some German silver (which is not silver but a combination of metals which give it the silvery look).

    Although the ancient and original Navajo Jewellery has only turquoise, the more recent Navajo pieces use other gems as well in combination with silver – Onyx, Carnelian, Corals etc. Indians who have learnt the art of silversmithing from their ancestors handcraft these pieces even today. Some gems used by them are treated to improve the look of the gems. Designed by the Navajo artist, these Jewellery pieces use Indian designs, historical figures and animals for authenticity.

    The Navajo Jewellery is a piece of history – extremely sought after by connoisseurs of jewellery. Handcrafted jewellery is rare and Indian jewellery is appreciated not just in America, but all over the world. Crafted by hand, each piece is one of its kind and even similar pieces have tiny differences. The range of Jewellery is vast – rings, belts, buckles, earrings, neck ornaments, armlets, bracelets and even some headgear.

    Authentic Native American Jewellery – Heishi (beads), the Squash Blossom design necklace, the Naja set, the Kitohs (bow wrist bands) etc – the jewellery of the Indians have unusual names. Beautiful creations in Silver by a proud people who understood the meaning of being one with nature. Navajo jewellery will always catch the eye of the aficionado.

    Different Navajo jewelry types

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    Different Navajo jewelry types

    by Binasaji

    Wampum Beads , Heishi strings, Naja Sets, Squash Blossom Necklace, Bold Overlay,Inlay work Bracelets , Kitohs. What are they?

    Jewellery plays an important part in all our lives – men and women. The ancient Indians too loved ornamentation and used all kinds of material to fashion jewellery for themselves. In modern times wearing handcrafted, authentic Navajo jewellery has become a trend. The Navajos created designs based on their unique history and culture – Historical figures, animals and other nature symbols like thunder, flowers etc. were the predominant motif in their jewellery.

    So what does Native Indian jewellery comprise of? Mainly it is silver and turquoise jewellery, although contemporary Indian artists also work with various gemstones like coral, carnelians, onyx and of course turquoise. Different tribes have different signature designs and some are common to all the Native American tribes. The Native American jewellery has a range from rings, earrings, necklaces, beautiful belts, wrist bands or bracelets and some websites even offer watches with silver and turquoise inlay work.

    Necklaces are of several types – the Squash Blossom necklace, the Naja set, the Heishi beads, the Wampum beads and Fetishes (which are used as Pendants) etc. The early Native Americans fashioned beads from shells, stones, bones and sometimes even quills and were strung together with string. These bead chains were worn at important religious and ceremonial occasions – shell beads as old as 4000 years have been found. These beads indicated the status of the person- a single girl, a married woman, a hunter, healer, and the leader of the tribe – all had distinctive jewellery to indicate their position in the tribe. Belts, clothing, head gear, weapons were also inlaid or overlaid with beads to give them a more ornamental looks and also for luck.

    Two important beads are a part of the Native American culture – Heishi and Wampum.

    Wampum Beads

    Wampum beads were the earliest form of beads and had great importance in the Native American culture influencing several aspects of the Indian way of life – as jewellery, for religious functions, social, financial and sometimes even political purposes. The Wampum beads of various materials (initially shells and later gemstones and sometimes even coins) were made. These beads were a legacy, handed down from generation to generation as heirlooms. Weapons and clothes were inlaid with Wampum for protection and beauty – even King Philip had a Wampum bead outfit. Colors on the Wampum had different meanings; for example red painted Wampum were a sign of war. Marriages, curing ceremonies and every aspect of the Indian life involved the Wampum.

    Since money was a concept alien to the Native Americans, they made lengths of Wampum, which were initially used for gifting and later for trading between tribes. Later, the Wampum acquired an importance in the economy of the white man also. Scarcity of metal resulted in shortage of coins and the Wampum were used in lieu of currency by the white settlers also. Two colors of beads were utilized for trading – the White beads (Wampum) and the blue, purple or violet ones called “suckanhoch.” The purple beads were twice as valuable as the white Wampum and these beads were widely accepted as currency for several years. Of course, the white men desperately tried to duplicate the handcrafted Wampum through machines but the machine-made crude counterfeits were easily discovered and did not carry the value of the genuine Wampum. Although it may not be a viable form of currency anymore, Wampum beads are highly sought after by collectors of Navajo jewellery.

    Heishi strings

    The Heishi strings are truly a work of art – skilled and patient craftsmanship. A good string of Heishi looks like a snake and feels like silk when you run it through your fingers. The craftsperson takes anywhere from 2 days to 2 weeks to create this wonder. The earlier Heishi strings were made from shell – making a hole in the shell and then making it into beads and finally rubbing it till it became smooth and even. Indian artists now use corals, carnelians, lapis, turquoise etc. to create these lovely Heishi strands. The process of making the Heishi beads requires patience – cutting off squares from the uncut stones/gems, making small holes in each square and stringing them, grinding them so they take on the circular or oblong bead shape, polishing with sand paper and the final polish on a piece of leather. The stones being delicate often break or chip off during the process – depending on the material being used; sometimes almost 50% of the beads are wasted before getting the perfect strand of silken beads. Of course, this flaw is the best way to verify if the strand you are buying is genuine Indian art or not. Most Heishi strands will have at least one bead that is a little chipped or flawed, it is the flaw that lends to the Necklace’s perfection. Wearing a Heishi strand feels like wearing a strand of silk – smooth and even – a masterpiece of patience and craftsmanship.

    Naja Sets

    Borrowed from the Spaniards, the Naja is basically a crescent shape which captured the imagination of the Native Americans. It is possible the Native Indians first spotted the crescent shape on Spanish horses. The Naja design became very popular with the Native Americans and was associated with fertility. Earlier the Naja sets were made of any available metal or even beads or coins, but after the Navajo learnt the art of silversmithing, Naja sets in silver became the trend. Contemporary Navajo artists too create beautiful Naja necklaces in heavy silver with the traditional crescent shape at the center as a pendant. The crescent shape can have designs of Bears, snakes or other floral designs alternatively, some artists make the animal/symbol in a crescent shape to give it the Naja effect.

    Squash Blossom Necklace

    This is an adaptation of the Naja set by the very artistic Zuni tribe. The Navajos who were the first to learn the art of silversmithing created Najas in silver. It was the Zuni tribe (who learnt the art after 25 years) which added turquoise in the Naja set to give rise to the famous Squash Blossom necklaces. These necklaces are a must-have for any serious collector of Native American jewellery. The gifted Zuni added turquoise, shell and other intricate inlay work on the silver to enhance the silver naja. These designs too took on the images of sacred and lucky animals – turtles, buffalo, bear etc. This beautiful traditional Indian piece can be found with both inlay work and overlay work too. A large variety of Squash Blossom necklaces can be found, some with beads in a crescent shape, some may have inlay or overlay animal motifs in silver. It can a pleasure choosing the one (or several) which appeals to you.

    Other jewellery

    Bold Overlay and Inlay work Bracelets / bangles and Kitohs (wristbands worn while stringing bows), Belts, Earrings and Finger rings are also available – made by contemporary Native American artists. These beautiful works of art are in demand by avid jewellery collectors from all over the world.

    Some pieces are delicate while some pieces reflect the raw energy of the Native Americans. Both are equally desirable and are suitable for most ensembles. The greatest advantage is Navajo jewellery is unisex – most pieces can be worn by men and women both.

    Browse the net and surrender to the charm of handcrafted Navajo jewellery.

    Buying and caring tips for Navajo Jewelries

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    Buying and caring tips for Navajo Jewelries

    by Binasaji

    The majority of American Indians too use readymade Sterling silver to craft their designs although there are some artists who use other silver like coins or german silver which are also acceptable (but make sure you are informed if the silver is not sterling).

    Wonderful! So you have decided to invest and enjoy wearing handmade jewellery created by Native American Indians. But before you make the purchase, be sure you are buying authentic handcrafted jewellery and not machine made or Navajo jewellery made by artists who are not Native American Indians – which is often sold as the real thing. Learn a little about the jewellery you are planning to buy -browse the internet and if possible stop by at some stores selling Indian jewellery – to get a feel of what authentic Indian jewellery should look like. Visiting stores selling imitation or poor quality Indian jewellery can be advantageous too – for tips on how Indian jewellery should not appear! The more research you do, the better informed your purchase will be and the chances of getting cheated will be diminished.

    A little about the materials required to create Indian jewellery – mainly Silver and sometimes even Copper along with gemstones go into making Navajo jewellery. Most Indian jewellery with the exception of Heishi beads and Wampum beads utilize silver As per law, silver jewellery has to be Sterling grade silver, which is 92.5 percent purity silver. Most metals used in jewellery are not of 100% purity (the metals used are always alloys) because a pure metal can bend easily and the ring or bracelet will loose its shape just after one use. The majority of American Indians too use readymade Sterling silver to craft their designs although there are some artists who use other silver like coins or German silver which are also acceptable (but make sure you are informed if the silver is not sterling).
    The silver in Navajo jewellery enhances the beauty of turquoise. Most turquoise available in the market today is treated. Stones are sometimes treated (with stabilizing/coating or dying agents) to make them stronger or to enhance their appearance. For eg. good quality untreated turquoise is very expensive, which will increase the price of the jewellery. If the stones have been treated, the seller must let you know in detail the kind of treatment the stone has undergone.

    The beauty of silver and turquoise are enchanting and it has captured the interest of millions worldwide. Contemporary Indian artists are re-creating the beauty of Navajo jewellery with gemstones other than traditional Turquoise – corals, onyx, lapis and carnelians are also being used in making Indian jewellery. These present-day Indian artists have learnt the art of making Navajo jewellery from their ancestors. Along with traditional designs, they also offer more contemporary pieces like Watches with the traditional silver and turquoise work. The price of most authentic Indian jewellery is high, in comparison to the value of the materials used – the patience, skill and hours that go into creating a handcrafted piece are much more than imitation or machine-made jewellery, hence the higher price. In fact, if the seller is offering the jewellery at a lower price, it may be imitation or machine-made or pawn jewellery. Browse around to get an approximate idea of what each jewellery piece should cost.

    The American Indians sell a piece of their ancient culture through their jewellery. Their creations imbibe their age-old beliefs into each piece of handmade jewellery. The Heishi strands, Squash Blossom necklaces, Naja sets, Kitohs etc are all traditional Navajo concepts. Good quality genuine handmade pieces have clear designs on them; the cut and setting of the stones are impeccable. Poor quality or Imitation pieces will not have the clarity in the designs and the cut and setting of the stones will be poor – sometimes even the glue will be visible between the silver and the stones – an indication the piece is imitation.

    Most American Indians like all artists hallmark their jewellery. This means that the pieces created by them are signed by a symbol or a letter. A hallmarked piece is a sure sign that the jewellery is authentic. Some pieces like Heishi strands have a distinct silken feel that cannot be imitated by inferior pieces. Almost always, a Heishi strand will have one flawed or chipped bead – this is proof that the strand is handmade.

    The safest course is to look for documentation that the piece is genuinely made by American Indian artists (most of who are registered with different societies, recognized by the Government like the “Indian Arts and Crafts Association”). Later if you plan on reselling your jewellery, you can get a better price than if the jewellery has no certificate. Buy from a reputed seller who will provide accurate information about the piece. Also if a seller has duplicates of the same piece, it is not authentic handcrafted jewellery. All handcrafted jewellery (even similar pieces) has some differences – big or small.

    Caring for your Navajo jewellery is as important as making the purchase. Store the piece separately to avoid scratches on the stones. Turquoise is a brittle stone; a slight blow can break the stone. This is the same for other stones like corals, carnelians too. Keep your Navajo jewellery away from extreme temperatures and to clean the stone just rub with a cloth. The silver in Navajo jewellery should never be polished to a high finish. Always leave some area tarnished; this will enhance the beauty of the piece. Tender loving care will make your Navajo jewellery look beautiful for years.

    Some collectors invest in antique Navajo jewellery – made in the 1900’s, these pieces are referred to as Dead Pawn or Old Pawn. These pieces are antiques and may even be heirlooms of families that have been sold, stolen or pawned for money in order to feed the family. Some Indians sell their heirlooms to gratify their alcoholism or drugs. Whatever the reason for parting, these Dead Pawn do not normally have a good vibrations, therefore it is advisable to stay away from them. However, there are some antique pieces gifted by the Indians to others with a grateful spirit and carry positive vibrations – however these are relatively rare and one must delve into the past to verify the truth.

    The revival of interest in Navajo Jewellery has given a profitable livelihood to the present American Indians. There are plenty of Indian artists offering beautiful handcrafted traditional Navajo jewellery. Some can even take orders or help you decide which Animal symbol will bring you luck!
    Knowledge is power. And in learning about the culture and history of the American Indians, you will be able to appreciate the beauty, skill and potency of wearing authentic Navajo jewellery.

    Dog Necklaces

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    A post by Ardamun

    You need to buy dog necklaces that suit your dog. Just for this very reason, there are different types of dog necklaces available with the jewelers. There are dog necklaces available to match with the color of your dog, and with its size. For big and massive dogs there are heavy necklaces, and for small dogs and lapdogs, delicate necklaces are what are required. ….

    EMERALD NECKLACE JEWELRY

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    by Nalink Naik

    Emerald is a gem with many excellent features and has very unique and special characteristics. Knowledge about this very special gemstone will not only make sure you get value for your money but also gives you the conviction required to make the right choice.

    A most stunning and versatile range of jewelry made out of both precious, as well as semiprecious stones is available today. Jewelry, both modern and traditional, and sometimes a combination of both, is well within the range of most everyone.

    Emerald NecklaceEmerald, the gemstone with the rich green color, has always been much coveted and very popular, in the form of jewelry, from ancient times to today’s modern world. Necklaces, crafted out of emeralds, are no exception to the rule. These not only look stunning but also add class to the wearer. The rare natural beauty of the emerald, lends itself to be crafted into a stunning collection of necklaces. A wide variety of designs, that are not only intricate and tasteful but also appealing to both young and old.

    Emerald is a gem with many excellent features and has very unique and special characteristics. Knowledge about this very special gemstone will not only make sure you get value for your money but also gives you the conviction required to make the right choice. Like all other precious gemstones, the color, clarity, cut and carat decide the worth of the emerald. A fair knowledge of each of these characteristics will go a long way in ensuring the authenticity and quality of the jewel.

    Color: The most important and a very unique characteristic of this stone is the rich green color it has, because of which, it is popularly known as the gemstone of spring. Emerald belongs to the family of Beryl’s and owes its brilliant green color to the presence of chromium and vanadium. This rich green color is what determines the value of the gem. The more saturated and rich the color, the more value it has. In fact, the emerald with a darker hue and more inclusions is without any doubt more precious than an emerald with less inclusions and a lighter shade of green.

    Clarity: Emerald, with a hardness rating of 7.5 to 8, has the most inclusions and fissures as compared to other gems. These inclusions and cracks are clearly visible when the emerald is viewed through a microscope. These fissures in the emerald are known as the gardening effect and another unique feature of this stone. In fact, these inclusions are what help identify a genuine natural emerald from a fake one. The richness of the color in the emerald makes up for these flaws. Even though the emerald has many inclusions, it is a hard and durable gemstone. This gem is treated with oil and resin to minimize the flaws and to strengthen it.

    Cut: Due to the many inclusions and the brittle nature of the gem, the process of cutting, polishing and setting is very problematic indeed. In order to overcome this problem, a special cut was developed called the emerald cut. This cut is mostly square and rectangular in nature and the beveled edges in this cut not only enhance the beauty of the emerald but also protect the gem. This does not mean that the emerald is cut only in this shape. Emeralds are cut into many other beautiful and classical shapes. The round diamond cut, oval and trillion cut and the princess and marquise cut are most popular. The rounded pearl cut is also becoming very popular now.

    Carat: The carat or the measure of the size of the gem is what adds to the value of any gem. This is so with the emerald too.

    With all these very unique characteristics the emerald is much coveted and very, very popular in the form of various jewelry items. Necklaces crafted out of emeralds have been much in demand from times immemorial. Even today emerald necklaces in an array of exquisite styles and settings are available to the consumer. Styles and settings ranging from the classic to the contemporary, crafted most intricately and tastefully, to suit any occasion, any age group, are all available. Designs both ethnic and modern and sometimes a combination of both, the range in emerald necklaces is unlimited. The ethnic designs, influenced by the rich heritage of the bygone eras, are much in demand especially for formal occasions. For those partial to modern and more elegant designs, a truly beautiful and sophisticated array of designs in emerald necklaces are available. From chokers to long necklaces or even simple strands of emerald s cut in pearl shapes, there are designs to suit any age group, any occasion and to compliment any ensemble you may wear.

    As far as designs go, they may be floral or pertain to nature or plain geometrical. Weather a choker or a long necklace, the choice is absolutely individualistic. Whatever the pattern, whatever the length, emerald necklaces look most breathtaking when set in a metal that compliments the green color of the gem. White gold or platinum enhances the rich green color of the emerald most. Emeralds look good all on their own, but in combination with diamonds the effect is truly stunning. Emerald necklaces, offset with precious stones like rubies, sapphires and diamonds, are in a class of their own. Traditionally, the whole set, i.e. the necklace with matching earrings, bracelet and ring was usually bought and worn as a whole. Today the modern designs are such, that a single piece of jewelry is stunning enough to make a style statement of your own.

    Whatever the style or design, the clasp of the necklace is very important. A clasp with a good design and quality not only adds to the beauty of the necklace, but also ensures the safety of the jewel. Care of emerald necklaces is very important. As emeralds have a lot of inclusions and are treated with oil or resin in order to strengthen the gem, never clean the emerald necklace with ultrasonic jewelry cleaner or with harsh detergents. This may dissolve the resin or oil and weaken the stone. Even though the emerald has many cracks and fissures, it is a hard gem and does not scratch easily.

    All in all, emerald necklaces not only look very chic, but also very beautiful to behold, especially when set in the right metal, with the right cut and an appropriate design. Emerald necklaces make wonderful gifts especially for anniversaries, as this gemstone symbolizes enduring and eternal love. Emerald necklaces are beautiful and stunning and this is a piece of jewelry anybody would be proud to own.

    Amethyst perfect 6th anniversary gift

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    Amethyst perfect 6th anniversary gift

    by Debjani Banerjee

    Amethysts have a scintillating range of color. A wide range of purple characterizes this gemstone. The crystals as they occur in nature are in the form of sparkling clusters growing amidst chunks of quartz and other kinds of rock. The mineral manganese in quartz gives amethyst its special hue.

    Summary: Amethysts have a scintillating range of color. A wide range of purple characterizes this gemstone. The crystals as they occur in nature are in the form of sparkling clusters growing amidst chunks of quartz and other kinds of rock. The mineral manganese in quartz gives amethyst its special hue.

    Amethyst is commonly known as the official birthstone for the month of February; it is also the birthstone for the Zodiac sign Pisces. Amethyst is usually gifted on the 4th, 6th, 17 Th, wedding anniversaries. Amethyst has been a very popular gemstone through thousands of years owing to its almost miraculous powers!

    This lovely gem is not very expensive as it is freely available in nature, but its loveliness of color and clarity is unparalled; other violet gemstones are compared to Amethyst to make a comparison. Amethysts are very much the favored choice of stone for jewelry of various styles. It is also used for ornamentation purposes.

    Let us get acquainted with the salient features that distinguish its peculiar composition. Amethyst or SiO2 is transparent purple colored quartz. It is the most important among all varieties of quartz. Amethysts occur mostly as long prismatic crystals; in layman’s terms it resembles a six-sided prismatic pyramid like structure
    on one side and ends in a pointed ending on the other. Amethyst has a hardness of 7 on Mho’s scale of hardness.

    Amethysts have a scintillating range of color. A wide range of purple characterizes this gemstone. The crystals as they occur in nature are in the form of sparkling clusters growing amidst chunks of quartz and other kinds of rock. The mineral manganese in quartz gives amethyst its special hue.

    The lighter amethysts are known as rose de France variety, the deeper ones with dense color and deep rose flashes in-between are the expensive varieties. Darker hued amethysts have no need to be further enhanced or heat-treated; the lighter ones are sometimes heat treated to citrine color. Most of the Amethysts that are commercially available nowadays are normally heat treated to get a deeper colors.

    The color of the pure and expensive amethyst is a clear purple, but the normal range of color in amethyst can vary from lilac, lavender, and mauve to even deep purple and its intermediate colors. An” Amethyst geode ” can be one of the most arresting sights in nature for its sheer beauty. A huge piece of quartz studded with sharp violet crystals with deep pink flashes in their hearts remind one of nebulae ready to give birth to a million new stars! Top quality amethyst is a deep purple stone with pink flashes.

    No wonder the Amethyst has been a popular choice for the ” Royals” of all ages, its purple color echoing the colors of royalty. Amethysts paired with diamonds, or set in platinum with other precious stones like emeralds and rubies have been extensively used in the crown and state jewelry of all European royalty and have similarly found pride of place in the huge jewelry collections of our Indian princes and Maharajas.

    There are various types of Amethysts like all other minerals. Experts, geologists can distinguish varieties by shape and color. The” types of clusters” are also pointers to the place of origin. Experts can identify localities from where the amethyst specimen originated by its tint and hue.
    The color, shape, cluster are key factors in determining the place of origin. Amethysts are found extensively in many countries of the world. Vera Cruz from Mexico, Guiro from Brazil and Mexico are prismatic crystal varieties. South America boasts even larger crystals; Africa has smaller stones of deeper and more intense colors whereas Australia has only smaller varieties. The Minas Gerais from Brazil, Maraba from Brazil, Thunder Bay from Canada are other popular varieties of this gemstone.

    This gem is mined from South America, Africa, Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, Bolivia, Zambia, and Namibia.

    The origin to the name of this stone is the stuff of fable and legend! Greek mythology is full of tales stranger than life. Amethyst’s folklore and origin of name has a fascinating story to it! The goddess Diana to save her from Bacchus the Wine God’s raging anger turned “Amethys” into a quartz statue. Bacchus shed tears of remorse, when he saw the statue, and his tears stained the stone transforming the statue into “Amethyst,” a new stone! The word “Amethustos” in Greek means, “not drunk”, this could also be the origin to the name Amethyst. The stone was therefore believed to have miraculous powers and ward off intoxication. Curiously wine goblets were often fashioned out
    of amethyst to keep the drinkers merrymaking for a while longer, and not be lost to the world in a drunken haze!

    The Amethyst is believed to transform lower negative energies to positive ones. Religions of the world have vouchsafed for the stone’s magical efficacy. The church has used amethysts in rosaries; Bishops wear the stone in their church regalia and rings to gain from its beneficial and healing, vibrations. The Tibetans believe amethysts play a
    significant part in their religious rituals.

    No wonder this stone’s popularity has frog leaped from being an exclusive item used only by the rich and the famous to becoming an important fashion accessory for our time.

    Amethysts can be set in rings, bracelets, chokers, bracelets or any other creative way, like embellishing lamp stands, jewelry watches, paperweights, the sky being the limit to the innovative ways it can be used!

    Last but not the least, Amethysts have become very popular for a very specific reason. Amethyst’s metaphysical properties have in recent times augmented its use in meditation and healing sessions in gem crystal therapy. Its clear nature causes
    energies to flow easily through it aiding one to attain serenity, gain inner peace and balance. It aids intuition and is considered the stone of wisdom. It sharpens thinking, and is also believed to be a common aid to relieving headaches, cure sugar imbalance, transform all lows and blues to a more positive and constructive state of mind. Its almost magical efficacy in reversing the negative emotions of anger and violence would make everyone wish to wear this gem birthstone or not!

    Appraising the Value of Gems

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    Appraising the Value of Gems

    by Mathew Abraham

    Gems are appraised mainly to determine their fair market value (FMV) or for insurance purposes. Qualified gemologists undergo specialized training to be certified as accredited appraisers of gems. If a gem has been certified by a Master Gemologist Appraiser, his/her valuation is accepted as final.

    The Need for Having Gems Appraised

    The techniques for manufacturing imitation costume (or artificial) jewelry have been developed to a level where it is almost impossible for an average person to differentiate between them and the originals. Add to this the fact that some jewelry retailers ridiculously inflate the price of genuine precious stones and you can see why it is necessary to have your gems appraised and certified at the time of purchase. After spending a tidy amount on a gem you have just acquired, the last thing you would want is to find that your friend has purchased an identical stone for a much lower price, or that your stone is of inferior quality! There is no ready market for the resale of gems so you need to get professional advice and analyze the various gems and their characteristics before deciding what to buy. Whether it is for your collection, an investment for resale, or as a gift, get your gems appraised for insurance purposes as well as for knowing their fair market value.

    Grading and Appraising Gems

    There are a standard set of rules to be observed in the purchase of any gem, followed by separate rules for each variety of gems. While the system for grading and valuing diamonds is well established and dependable because of steady market conditions and stable supply and demand, the same cannot be said for most other gems, especially when supply and demand are unpredictable. While most gemologists can prepare a grading or identification repot on a stone, only an appraiser can give its exact value. Most appraisers include a grading report also. Some jewelers subject inferior quality colored gems to enhancement – like heat treatment, irradiation or oiling – to get a better price for them and a good appraiser will be quick to notice such embellishments. Some stones have a high value because of the history or folklore attached to them. Stones coming naturally in identical pairs or suites fetch a comparatively better value than a single stone of the same quality.

    What does an Appraiser do?

    The term ‘appraising’ refers to the process of evaluating a product on the basis of specific criteria and for specific purposes. Gems are appraised mainly to determine their fair market value (FMV) or for insurance purposes. Qualified gemologists undergo specialized training to be certified as accredited appraisers of gems. If a gem has been certified by a Master Gemologist Appraiser, his/her valuation is accepted as final. These appraisers need to have their credentials revalidated every five years. They need to update themselves with the latest developments in the field of gemology. Appraisers may specialize in evaluating different kinds of gems and jewelry. They are even given special courses in market research and analysis for gems.

    Appraisers make a detailed study of the various characteristics of gems. The chemical composition is analyzed to determine if it is essentially a chemical element, a simple chemical compound, or a complex compound of chemicals and elements. The crystal structure is analyzed to determine whether they are crystalline, non-crystalline or organic. The crystal structure can be cubic, hexagonal, tetragonal, orthorhombic, monoclinic or triclinic. Gems are studied for their optical effect. Besides assessing the color, they are analyzed for factors like optic character, refractive index, birefringence, dispersion, fluorescence, phosphorescence and clarity of color. Some gems display rare special optical effects called ‘phenomena’, which enhance the attractiveness and value of the stone. These gems are studied for chatoyancy, asterism, iridescence and aventurescence. Each gem is assessed for specific gravity or relative density. Durability of the stone is assessed to determine hardness and toughness. Thermal conductivity is assessed as the ability to conduct heat varies from stone to stone.

    A variety of appliances and accessories are used in the process of appraising a gem. These include binocular microscopes, refractometers, polariscopes, Chelsea filter, aka emerald filter, spectroscope, ultraviolet light source, special specific gravity testing liquids, X-ray photographs, etc.

    The Final Analysis

    Generally gems are categorized as Precious stones – diamonds, rubies, emeralds, sapphires, opals and pearls – and Semi-Precious stones – most other colored gems. But this classification is rather ambiguous as inferior quality ‘precious stones’ are much cheaper than top quality ‘semi-precious stones’. Even the general differentiation between diamonds and ‘colored stones’ is inappropriate, as some diamonds are colored and some ‘colored’ stones have no color. Some unusual gems are further classified as Museum Grade stones and Rare or Collector stones.

    The basic principle of the 5 Cs is applied for all gems – Cost should be determined by Carat, Cut, Clarity and Color.

    The price per carat does not rise proportionately but exponentially. This is because large gems are difficult to come by. While larger carat weights naturally attract higher prices, the stones should be of a size suitable for ornaments to have value.

    A gem must be strikingly beautiful in appearance to have real value. Sparkle and color are the primary considerations and should be evident even from several yards away. Cut and clarity determine the impact of sparkle and color. The pattern of cutting differs for diamonds and colored stones, as the optical properties of the latter are variable. Different types of cuts include heart, octagon, pear, marquise, round brilliant, oval, square, trilliant, round cabochon, princess, antique cushion, baguette, emerald cut, and briolette. Good diamonds should be dazzling with their white fire and good colored stones should maintain the richness of their color in daylight as well as indoor conditions. A really good gem will stand out anywhere, anytime!

    Some persons claim they can asses a stone with just one careful look. They may or may not be correct in their assessment, but, when you consider the professional competence of a certified appraiser, it is much better to be certain than to take a risk when investing your valuable money in gems. Certified gems are far more valuable whether they are for resale or for a collection. It is a good practice to have precious stones appraised and revalued periodically, so that you can always rest assured that you know the exact value of your collection.

    How gemstone hardness measured

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    How gemstone hardness measured

    by Binashaji

    Diamonds measure 10 on the MOHS scale and Aquamarine measures 7 whereas Pearls can measure between 3 and 4 on the MOHS scale. MOHS is a term oft used in Gemstone Jewelry, but what exactly does MOHS mean and signify?

    The MOHS scale was formulated in the 1800’s by a German mineralogist (Geologist) named Friedrich Mohs. As a Geologist, he spent over a decade studying and experimenting with various minerals and gemstones. Friedrich Mohs created an easy to remember scale by which one could easily discover if a mineral was delicate or hard. The resultant MOHS scale makes it possible to gauge the scratch ability of a mineral or gemstone. He took 10 minerals and gave each one a number from 1 to10 depending on its hardness as compared to the minerals above and below it. The MOHS scale is given below:

    The symbol for MOHS is HM.

    Mohs Scale of Hardness
    1Talc (softest)
    2Gypsum
    3Calcite
    4Fluorite
    5Apatite
    6Feldspar
    7Quartz (Amethyst)
    6.5 – 7.5Garnet
    7.5Beryl (Emerald)
    8Topaz
    9Corundum (Ruby and Sapphire)
    10Diamond (hardest material known to man)

    Although Friedrich Mohs designed this model for minerals in general, it is not used scientifically in laboratories because it is not an exact measurement. The MOHS scale is only a comparative scale. The degree of the hardness is only to check if a gem can be scratched by another gem that is above or below it. For eg. Garnets and Amethyst are both rated as 7 on the MOHS scale and it means that both can scratch each other if they are handled without care or placed with each other. But if a Garnet is placed with a stone like opal which is 6 HM then the opal can be scratched by the Garnet. Alternatively if the Garnet is placed with a Ruby (hardness of 9) then the Garnet can get damaged but not the Ruby. So if new , unknown gem is discovered and its hardness is not known , it can be rubbed against various known gems. Depending on which material leaves scratches on it, it hardness on the MOHS scale can be arrived at with relative ease.

    The MOHS scale only determines the ability of the gemstone to resist scratches. It is not a measurement of the strength of the stone. A high MOHS rating does not necessarily mean the material is strong. For example a Diamond is 10 HM, which means that it measures 10 on the MOHS scale. Diamonds are the only substance with a rating of 10 on the MOHS Scale. They are the hardest gemstones known to man and Diamond bits are used to cut glass, metal and other diamonds also. Although Diamonds cannot be scratched easily, they are brittle. A light blow and a diamond can crack and break.

    There are several other exact scientific methods to arrive at the exact hardness of any material. It is not possible to decide that a stone which has a hardness of 3 is exactly half as hard as a stone which measures 6 on the MOHS scale. For eg. Corals measure 3.5 and an Amethyst is 7on the MOHS scale. But accurate scientific tests have shown that the hardness of the Amethyst is more than 20 times the coral. The numbers accorded to the stones on the MOHS scale are only for comparison and they are not proportionate with each other.

    But the MOHS scale has been a boon to the Jewellery industry and specially for the Gemstone buyers. This easy to remember scale makes it very easy to maintain and care for Gemstone Jewellery. This scale helps even a layman understand about how Jewellery should be maintained and stored. Storing Aquamarines with Pearls can be disastrous. The Aquamarine will scratch the delicate pearls leaving ungainly scratches which can be felt if a finger is rubbed gently across the Pearls. These scratches will even show up when light falls on the earrings or necklace, ruining the classiness of the Pearls.

    When buying Jewellery, just ask your Jeweler what is the MOHS rating of the gemstone. It is much easier to store and maintain Jewellery when you have an idea about the MOHS rating of piece you have bought. Corals, Pearls, Amber all are delicate and need to be used with care. As a rule, if your gem does not measure at least 7 on the MOHS scale, it is a delicate stone and can be damaged very easily. So extra care should be taken while wearing these ornaments.

    The MOHS rating can help determine the usage of the Jewellery too! For everyday wear, Diamonds are the best – their hardness is 10 and they do not get scratched easily. Rubies, Emeralds also are great for people with active lifestyles since they measure 9 on the MOHS scale and have a greater resistance.

    If you love wearing Gemstone Jewellery, get to know the MOHS scale to help you understand and care for your precious pieces. Although the scale is not an accurate measure and can only be used for comparisons, it is great to care for your precious ones !

    Amethyst in History

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    Amethyst in History

    by Mathew Abraham

    Since the color of amethyst is associated with royalty, it has been the natural choice for most monarchs from ancient times. Egyptian rulers had a marked preference for the stone. Some exquisite amethyst stones adorn the British Crown Jewels. Catherine the Great was also known to have a liking for this precious stone. Besides, rulers were expected to be sober in order to make proper decisions on important matters, and amethyst was believed to have the ability to protect the wearer from any kind of intoxicating influence.

    Summary: Since the color of amethyst is associated with royalty, it has been the natural choice for most monarchs from ancient times. Egyptian rulers had a marked preference for the stone. Some exquisite amethyst stones adorn the British Crown Jewels. Catherine the Great was also known to have a liking for this precious stone. Besides, rulers were expected to be sober in order to make proper decisions on important matters, and amethyst was believed to have the ability to protect the wearer from any kind of intoxicating influence. The stone has become symbolic with temperance. Leonardo Da Vinci found that the stone was able to protect him from evil thoughts and stimulate his intellect. The association with royalty makes it popular with the leaders of modern societies also, as it gives them the feeling of being “kings” in their respective areas. Since it is found in different locations around the world, it has become very popular. And were it not so abundantly available, it would have been very costly. It is a popular choice as a 17th wedding anniversary gift.Early History
    Available information suggests that this purple category of quartz was popular in several ancient civilizations. The stone was popular with hunters, and was credited with the power of giving protection during battle and against poisons. It was also believed to dispel sluggishness and increase mental agility. There is even a Biblical reference to it being one of the twelve stones to adorn the breastplate of the high priests. It was commonly used as an adornment, especially among the aristocratic classes. Though Pliny has opined that the name of the stone is derived from its color, which resembles wine, popular folklore connects the name to Greek origins. The theory suggests that the term ‘amethyst’ is derived from the Greek roots ‘a’ – meaning ‘not’ – and ‘methuskein’ – which means ‘intoxication’ – because it was believed that alcoholic drinks consumed from cups made of amethyst would not intoxicate the drinker. It was also believed to protect the wearer from amorous intoxications.
    And there is an interesting Greek legend concerning the origin of the stone itself. Dionysus, the Greek God of intoxication, had been offended by a mortal. In a fit of rage he decided to take revenge on the next mortal to cross his path, and created a vicious tiger to execute his deadly design. The next innocent who came that way turned out to be the beautiful young maiden, Amethyst, a devotee of the Goddess Diana. In order to save Amethyst from the tiger, Diana transformed her into the purest form of crystalline quartz. When the eyes of Dionysus beheld the incredibly beautiful statue, they shed tears of deep purple wine that stained the quartz and gave it its attractive color.There are other theories that connect the name to oriental sources, claiming that the present term is a corruption of the original name. During the middle ages, the stone became popular among the Catholic clergy, as it was believed that the anti-intoxicating properties of the gem would help them maintain their vows of celibacy. Amethyst came to symbolize piety and Bishops frequently used it for their rings. Other religions, Like Buddhism, also attached importance to the stone.Astrological and Mystical History
    Traditionally amethyst is the astrological stone of the star sign Pisces. Today it is also accepted as the stone for the month of February, and some people even connect it with the star signs Aries, Aquarius, Virgo, Capricorn and Sagittarius. The deep violet and purple colored varieties are the most popular as astrological and birth stones. Many people still attach a lot of importance to the traditional positive values attributed to the gem. It is associated with Saint Valentine as a symbol of pure love, chastity, temperance and faithfulness. Hunters and soldiers wore it to gain presence of mind and clear thinking in stressful situations. Many believe that wearing the gem can gain favors from royalty and other wealthy and powerful leaders of society. Amethyst is also accepted as a symbol of spirituality and detachment from worldliness, allowing the wearer to make wise decisions in worldly affairs (including business matters) even while keeping the mind occupied in philosophical realms.

    Other qualities attributed to amethyst include increase in faith and wisdom, diligence in prayer and religious practices, assistance in prophecy, protection from poisonous substances and sorcery, discernment and suppression of evil thoughts and evil forces, guidance for travelers, indications of deterioration in health, etc… It is credited with enabling the wearer to see and interpret prophetic dreams and visions concerning future events. It is also believed that wearing the gem can bring love and good fortune.

    Contemporary History
    In modern times amethyst has become very popular as it is readily available all over the world. Mines are located in the United States, Canada, Mexico, Brazil, Argentina, Bolivia, Uruguay, Zambia, Namibia, South Africa, Russia and Australia. Although there are marked differences in the quality of the stone depending on the place of its origin, all varieties are very much in demand. The South American amethyst is generally larger than the African variety, but the latter tend to have a deeper color. The Australian stone is very small in size but has a very dark color. Stones mined in Russia are clear and have a deep color.

    The gem comes in an attractive and wide array of colors that range from a deep purple to a pale lilac shade. The prime choice for ornaments is the translucent rich purple variety. These stones have a rose colored sparkle and are the most expensive. The paler pastel shades, referred to as “Rose de France”, are more suited for jewelry crafted in Victorian designs. These days amethyst is available in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. Though generally the stones are cut to standard dimensions, some of the more imaginative designs are very much in demand – especially those linked to some legendry folklore or mystical powers. But whatever the size, whatever the shape, and whatever the color, the demand for the stone is increasing everywhere.

    Factors affecting quality of pearls

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    Factors affecting quality of pearls

    by Bina shaji kurup

    An important factor in deciding the quality of the Pearl is its Luster. A high luster is visible in the reflections on the surface of the pearl – a clearer reflection signifies a better luster and such pearls seem to have a warm glow. The luster of the pearl is dependant on the thickness of the nacre coating on the pearl – it is normally understood that the longer a pearl is left inside the mollusk, the thicker is the nacre layer.

    How does one decide if a pair of pearl earrings or a necklace is worth its price? As with all gemstones, pearls too have certain factors, which decide their quality and price. Since pearls are natural creations and do not require cutting or polishing, it is rare to find uniform pearls unlike gemstones which can be cut and polished into uniform sizes. This is the beauty of the pearl, each pearl is unique and sometimes particular shades, sizes, and shapes can become scarce. Natural factors like water pollution, diseases, temperatures etc, all affect the availability of this delicate gem. Of late, with the advent of the pearl farms, the conditions are kept controlled giving better results and improved quality pearls. Some of the factors affecting the price and determining the quality of pearls are given.

    PearlAn important factor in deciding the quality of the Pearl is its Luster. A high luster is visible in the reflections on the surface of the pearl – a clearer reflection signifies a better luster and such pearls seem to have a warm glow. The luster of the pearl is dependant on the thickness of the nacre coating on the pearl – it is normally understood that the longer a pearl is left inside the mollusk, the thicker is the nacre layer. A good quality pearl will glow warmly and reflect images clearly. Pearls with thin nacre are not of good quality and will not have the glow of thick nacre pearls.

    Associated with the luster is the Surface of the pearl. Most pearls have some small blemishes or marks on the surface or they may slightly dented – this is more visible in larger pearls, although jewelers normally make sure the pearl is polished and sometimes treated to ensure its surface looks smooth and flawless. The pearl is a creation of nature and some flaws are normal in most pearls. But deep cracks or holes or overgrowths on the pearl or too many dents and blemishes should be avoided as they ruin the elegance of the pearl. A naturally flawless surface is extremely rare and such pearls are not made into jewellery, they are kept as they come from the oyster – without drilling holes or converting them into pieces of jewellery.

    Origin of the pearls is important while deciding on the quality and price. Natural pearls, which are rare, command a higher price and the saltwater cultured pearls are the next on the price range. Freshwater cultured pearls are the cheapest and are available to suit all budgets – from economical to expensive.

    The shape of the pearl is another factor in deciding the quality of the pearls. A round shape is highly valuable. This is because finding a perfectly rounded pearl is fairly rare – the Black Tahiti pearls are some of the rare examples of round pearls. White round pearls are normally rare. It is easier to find pearls in other shapes, the oval shape being less expensive and more readily available. Rice Pearl strands are eye-catching and are available in several designs. Thus the shape of the pearl although important in deciding the cost, is not important while purchasing a strand or pair of earrings since all shapes of pearls are equally enticing.

    Large pearls above 14mm size are rare and most freshwater cultured pearls (pearls grown on cultured pearl farms) range from 1mm to 12mm. The larger pearls are normally saltwater pearls like Tahitian and South Sea pearls in sizes from 12mm to 20mm (which are rare and most prized). Most Freshwater pearls are small ranging 1mm to 9mm. The diameter of the Pearl is measured in millimeters to get the exact size. Although large pearls are expensive, if they do not have a good luster or are flawed, it is safer to avoid buying them. Instead buying smaller sized pearls with a good luster is advisable.

    Silvery white, a gentle tinge of gold or pink, hues of black and blue – pearls are found in myriad colors. The color factor while deciding on a strand or a pair of earrings is a purely personal choice – some prefer the light shades of white, pink or gold whereas some love the look of the gray or black Tahitians. The colors most sought after are the whites with a tinge of rose in them and the colors most avoided are shades of green and brown. Ensure that you ask your jeweler if the pearls have undergone color enhancement, which has become a custom. Pearls that have not undergone color enhancement are rare.

    While buying strands or pearl necklaces, the size, shape and color of the pearls is very important.
    A necklace that does not have matching pearls can look shabby and cheap. In fact, expensive necklaces are those which have matching pearls – the size of the pearls is irrespective. A necklace could have the pearls of the same size, shape, color or they could be of varying sizes with the same shape and color. It is important that the strand looks uniform and has a certain balance in the pearls used. Uniformity and balance is the key to acquiring an elegant pearl necklace.

    Buying pearls with these qualities will make your purchase worth the price you pay for your elegant pair of earrings or the special bracelet or necklace.