Making Beaded Jewelry – Part III

by BINA SHAJI KURUP

An important item in every beader’s list is the stringing material to be used for putting together the beads. Natural and manmade alternatives are available in every material – silk, cotton or leather. Most of the manmade cords are stronger but lack the flexibility (important if knotting is a part of the design) of the natural product. If is best to first decide on the design and the type of beads and to be utilized while creating the jewellery and select threads based on these factors.

Threading Options 1

Selection of Threads

An important item in every beader’s list is the stringing material to be used for putting together the beads. Natural and manmade alternatives are available in every material – silk, cotton or leather. Most of the manmade cords are stronger but lack the flexibility (important if knotting is a part of the design) of the natural product. If is best to first decide on the design and the type of beads and to be utilized while creating the jewellery and select threads based on these factors.
Several factors influence the selection of the threading material

Weight of the Beads

While selecting the cords for stringing the bead, the weight of the bead plays an important part. A lightweight bead can be strung on almost any lightweight material – silk, synthetic nymo, silamide etc. but for a heavier bead it is preferred to use a thicker cord like leather, cotton or other synthetic options.

Size

Cords are measured by various methods; some cords like leather are measured in diameters others are measured by the weight of the thread. Before you make the purchase ensure the thickness of the cord and the size of the bead holes are complementary to each other. Buying a cord that is too thin will make the beads hang and ruin the look; on the other hand if is too thick, stringing the beads will be tough. Manufacturers normally suggest the sizes as per the bead so it is recommended a beader thoroughly read all the information provided and then buy the product – especially for online purchases.

Color

Synthetic or natural, the colors of cords available are numerous. Depending on the design, it is advisable to choose a color that coordinates the jewelry piece rather than a contrast color that will divert attention from the beauty of the beads.

Waxed Threads

Most natural products tend to unravel and to the best way to deal with this problem, is to wax the thread either with bee wax or to dip the ends in fabric glue to avoid frayed edges. Waxed thread is smooth and slips through easily. Wax also makes the thread stronger avoiding breakage in the cording material and pre-waxed cords in every material are sold online and in stores.

Resistance to Abrasion

Superior quality beads are finished beautifully without any sharp edges. However, some gemstones, metal beads and some other bead varieties have abrasive surfaces which cut into the threading material over time, increasing the incidence of breakage of the jewellery piece. With the assortment of stringing options available today, picking up non-abrasive material as your threading option is easy!

Types of Natural Threading Options

The varieties and options available in wires and threads are very vast. Major manufacturers often list the advantages of their product along with the prices, colors and lengths available. From cotton, leather to Nylon and Elastic, the list of threading options available is almost unlimited.

While crafting beaded jewellery, the thread used should be durable to ensure your jewellery can be used for a long time. It is preferable that threads do not unravel at the ends making it difficult to string the beads, some beaders recommend using waxed threads or thread conditioners, which make the threads stronger and prevent it from getting into terrible knots.

Beads can be strung together by waxed cotton threads but not the ordinary sewing thread. It is easier to make different types of knots and pass this thread through the bead holes, but while buying cotton threads make sure they are colorfast to protect your jewellery piece and clothes.

To overcome the main disadvantage of cotton threads – easy breakage, intrepid waxed cotton suppliers have introduced two or three fibres of artificial monofilaments/polymers at the centre to give the cotton cords strength, making cotton cords a great option for creating single stone / pendants or large chunky jewellery.

Silk threads have been used since long to thread smaller, lightweight beads and pearls. Easily available in a huge range of colors and effects, beaded jewellery on silk threads should be handled with care since the silk thread can stretch, disintegrate if wet and break if the bead edges are not smooth. Easily knotted, this smooth thread makes designs come alive especially if your jewellery has visible cord effects like knots between the beads. Silk threads come in a range of colors and sizes (referring to the number of strands used to create the silk thread) for convenience.

Both cotton and silk threads will require needles to make beading easy. If threading the needle is difficult, a needle with a larger eye-hole is a good investment. Flexible needles can also be bought for convenience.

Satin is a thicker form of silk and satin cord is also referred to as Rattail or Mousetail. Silky smooth with a glossy, classy glow, satin cords are a delight. The ends tend to unravel when the cord is cut, so wax or fabric glue is recommended while using Rattail. Great for beads with large, non-abrasive openings, especially those requiring knots between beads. The Rattail is a thick, decorative cord available in every color imaginable.

Native Americans utilized the animal sinew/ leather cords and sometimes even Hemp to string together their beaded jewellery. Although now it is rare to find beaders using natural animal products, artificial animal products that look and feel like the original are now widely available. Artificial sinew is stronger than the natural sinew and the natural colors looks great when working with see through glass beads or smaller beads. Leather complements native or ethnic jewellery and is normally available as Leather lace or cord. Care should be taken that the bead holes are smooth else it may cut the leather. Ideal for beads with larger holes, leather is thicker than silk or cotton and its thickness define its size. Artificial leather is stronger, has no fraying edges, is more durable, feels and looks like natural leather.

The simple Hemp used creatively lends itself to beautiful beaded jewellery but again care has to be taken to protect the cord from excess heat and water. Suede is yet another option and Faux suede, the manmade alternative is more resilient and is a common substitute for real suede cord.

Manufacturers are now offering Kevlar thread. This is bulletproof material and its usage in making beaded jewellery is unique and it is completely heat and water resistant with a very low elasticity. Kevlar should not be used with stone, gemstone or any other sharp edged beads since the material gets cut easily, although application of force to break it is a waste of time!

Some of the natural options for threading have been given above. In Part II, some information on the popular synthetic options is given. Continued….

Making Beaded Jewellery Part 1, Part 2, More Threading option
Jewellery manufacturing

Making Beaded Jewelry – Part IV

by Bina Shaji Kurup

A mind boggling range of cords, threads and wires are to be had for the creative beader – bright colors, braids, thin, thick, natural, synthetic and much more – making a choice is not easy. Some of the popular options in synthetic cords are listed below to make it easier

Threading Options II

Polyester Cord: The polyester cord is strong but prone to fraying. Although, pre-waxed the wax tends to come out while beading, making it slightly difficult to thread through the beads. Available in many sizes, the polyester cord can be used with even small size beads and larger metal beads as well.

Elastic Cords

Elasticity in the threading material makes it easy to create the jewellery, just string in the beads, tie up the two ends and voila the necklace or bracelet is ready for use. Made popular by designers who have created jewellery, especially bracelets, anklets, armbands etc, to fit everyone which is the main advantage of Elastic cord – the ornament can stretch to fit anyone! The beaded piece also becomes multi-functional – for eg. an anklet can also become a bracelet since the cord stretches. Elastic cord can be cut by sharp edges and will also loose its elasticity over time so it is not a good choice for beads with sharp edges. Elastic cord is sold in many colors and sizes and it does not fray which makes beading easy. Unlike other materials this does not require clasps, hooks etc at the ends making is a great option for quick to make beaded jewellery. Some of the brand names it is sold under is Stretchalon, Stretch Magic etc.

Memory wire

A steel elastic option, sold under several brand names. Just like the elastic cord, the memory wire remembers its shape and size hence the name. This product is very strong and special pliers are required to cut it. Unlike regular cords, Memory wire is not sold in spools but is sold as continuous loops in several sizes. It takes the shape and size of the wearer due its elastic nature making it easy to create pretty beaded jewellery – even by children.

Illusion Cord

If your design has the appearance of beads strung together without any visible cord, almost floating around your neck or ear or wrist then choose the Illusion cord. This monofilament or nylon cord is transparent and has a slight elasticity to it. Making knots is difficult and many beaders use tiny crimps to ensure beads stay in one place. Unlike a Memory wire, it is preferred, that Illusion cord jewellery be tied together with clasps at both ends.

Nymo

A cheaper alternative to natural silk threads is Nylon. It is stronger than silk and does not stretch as silk does, but it does get cut when used with beads with sharp edges. Also called Nymo, this product is composed of several strands of monofilaments giving it a tendency to fray. Waxing it will reduce the fraying and pre-waxed nymo is also available. Easy to knot, the thinner sizes of Nymo can be used to string pearls, heishi and other lightweight beads, heavy beads are not suitable to this cord. A similar cording material with some modifications, called C-Lon has been also been launched.

Bonded Nylon Threads

Another version of Nymo are the Bonded Nylon threads – stronger, more resistant to fraying and abrasion. Even gemstones can be strung on Bonded Nylon without the fear of the cord breaking. Both Nymo and Bonded Nylon are available in a range of colors and need a needle for easy beading. Silamide, which is waxed nylon twisted thread. It is quite strong and flexible.

Braided Cord

Yet another option for beaders is a heavy, strong, braided thread sold as Power Pro / Fire Line and other brand names. The waxed braid ensures minimal fraying and it can be threaded through a needle for easy beading. Even beads with sharp edges like gemstones, metal beads etc cannot easily cut into this cord. This material is a great option for pieces where the threading material is hidden from the outside view especially since it is not available in too many colors. Easy to knot, with a minimal stretch, necklaces created with this thread look great.

The flexible nylon coated cords range from thin cords with just 5 or 7 strands up to more than 49 strands. Coated and non-coated versions are widely available under brands called Tigertail, Softflex, Beadalon, Accuflex etc. It is a stiffer threading option and does not hold knots well, crimps are normally used to keep the beads in place. The main advantage of these cords is its strength and resistance to fraying. Some of these are coated with real gold or silver.

Craft wire is not recommended for important beading projects since it cuts very easily and is mostly used in amateur crafting projects.

Copper, German Silver wires have also caught the fancy of jewellery designers. The technological advances in making threading material is so advanced, it is difficult to guess which cord is actually a wire and which one is a natural thread. Only after the thread is used to make the jewellery, will the differences between each of the various threading options be visible.

The interested beader can choose from the exciting array of varied threading options.

Making Beaded Jewellery Part 1, Part 2, More Threading option
Jewellery manufacturing

Finger Jewelry

by Nandita Ray

There are the Gothic finger jewelry, the Rappers, the Bling Bling as they like to call it, the Hip Hop, the Bikers finger jewelry, full finger jewelry, two rings or three rings finger rings and their likes. Each design has its own exclusive name, and is oversize; humongous heavy metal ring or a gigantic ring, studded with diamonds or flashing gemstones and this form, this air of lavishness gives it a matchless almost peerless status of its own.

Fashion is unpredictable, non-conforming and fluctuating. Fashion is charisma. It is an individual style that one flaunts with élan. Fashion or the verve of dressing and accessorizing is a personal choice. From the elite suites of Channel and Dior to the foundry of Bling- Bling and Hip-Hop and spilling to the lesser worn designs of the multitudes, man is trying to make his presence felt. A startling, theatrical and thrilling appearance is the surest way to catch the eye of the world! Jewelry has been used to enhance, draw attention, emphasize or protect the wearer. In a world with escalating competition and tight fisted time and schedule, where neglect and disregard go hand in hand, some have to make an impact in the short time handed to them. Physical appearance is always the easiest way to make a long lasting appearance, outrageous and theatrical fashion leave an impression.

Finger Jewelry

To be different is cool. The mantra most touted in and around the fashion world. Staying alive in the media, with fans or with the world at large requires a devoted and conscious effort. Fashion gurus and trend setters have grasped this concept. Items of fashion/ jewelry have graduated from the basic structure to complicated and different model styles and names. The finger ring for example. It is really a decorative and fancy name for huge finger ring which is artistically crafted and beautifully designed and modified with code name finger jewelry. Influenced by various strains of thoughts, cultures, leaders, history and spirituality, finger jewelry are simply the expression of individuality, demonstration of views, mindset and the proclamation of general outlook of life.

Types of finger jewelry

There are the Gothic finger jewelry, the Rappers, the Bling Bling as they like to call it, the Hip Hop, the Bikers finger jewelry, full finger jewelry, two rings or three rings finger rings and their likes. Each design has its own exclusive name, and is oversize; humongous heavy metal ring or a gigantic ring, studded with diamonds or flashing gemstones and this form, this air of lavishness gives it a matchless almost peerless status of its own.

Gothic Finger Jewelry

This genre of rings is worn by Goths. People influenced by the morbid and darker side of life. The somber, subdued, the cheerless side of life almost bordering on the bleaker aspect of human feelings and emotions. Their dark clothes, long and heavy, dark eye makeup and full finger Gothic Jewelry; give them a Sui genre status.

The finger jewelry also called full fingered Gothic ring is usually 3 to 4 inches long and have two or sometimes three rings hinged at three places. It stretches over the entire finger, covering the nail. This allows the ring to sit comfortably on the finger and help maintain finger movement.

They are held at two places, a large ring base very much like a normal ring and a smaller ring at the finger tip. They are not sized. One size fits all. It is worn on which ever finger it fits well. It is usually the index finger.

They weigh a lot sometimes over 100 grams. They are usually made out of steel or silver.

Designs Black Eye Skull is thin and long running along the finger, emaciated skull with large, protruding eyeballs and a long beard that tapers off into a claw covering the finger nail. The ring is worn to exemplify the darker side of human nature and life.

There are many such types of rings the ET ring resembling an alien creature like the famous ET, Bulbous head large slanting eyes, with a snarl like smile covering the first two digits of the finger or the Horned vampire with its curved and thin thorny horns and menacing look, a ring with two loops to fit over one finger and can be adjusted to fit over the index finger or the thumb. The other rings are Black eyed alien, Werewolf, Viking, Knight Knuckles all wicked, wild and whacko rings representing the dark humor that lurks in all of us.

There are rings that carry the shapes of animals. These rings are distortion and over emphasizing of the animalistic traits that is part of Nature. The close connection between God and his creation (s) is sometimes happy and sad. This is what many want to express. These finger rings are heavy and at least 4 to 6 inches long. They can be Dolphins, eagles, whales, bats, lizards, snakes, scorpions and similar animals.

The King Cobra ring is a full finger ring, hinged at three places, weighing about 54 grams. It is a contorted snake with a semi raised hood, nicely etched about three inches long and its pointed tail rests on the finger nail like a cover. The Axe man Gothic full finger ring depicts a masked man carrying his axe, raised as if to strike. The long thin axe handle rests on the nail. It is about 56 grams in weight and is 3 inches long covering the full finger. The Alien full fingered ring is 5 inches long and weighs about 120 grams. The mysterious face lifts up at the second hinge and its pointed chin rests on the nail as a cover. The Dragon full finger ring is about 41/2 inches long and weighs 130 grams and is hinged at three places. Many Goths prefer to wear this ring since it is supposed to bring good luck and success. The Dragon, the mystical animal, representing the Chinese good Feng Shui, the harbinger of male fertility, power and the qualities of an Emperor is preferred by many wearers of rings.

There are numerous designs to choose from. The ventilated rings which have vents, the claw ring which looks like an overgrown nail, jeweled Gothic rings, etched (fully) Gothic rings, normal rings which comes up to the first notch of the finger like the one eyed alien spider or the classic Gothic rose. Then there is the Dr. Von Rosenstein’s Induction Ring also called Induction ring or the Deus Et Natura symbolizing the harmony between nature and the Creator or the Agla Ring, Hebrew word symbolizing the close understanding between God and man. There are Cloister rings, based on medieval England motifs or the Trefoil Sangurus rings, Gothic trefoils and the Chanting rings based on monks meditating.

Slave Rings

These are also quite popular. They are rings with a master ring with curb chains attached to the slave ring. They are adjustable with the smaller ring that can be worn on the smaller joint of the same finger or a different finger. Like the Black bat slave ring which is a bat with outstretched wings with chains hanging from its body. The chains from the wings are 13/4″ long while the curb chains (from the body) are 1″ long. Also in vogue is the Pewter Skull Slave Armor ring which sports an open skull jaw with a chain. Or the dragon slave ring with a coiled dragon and a 3″ tail like chain attached to the smaller slave ring. Or the master bracelet with chains attached to four rings sitting on four fingers or one chain and one ring. If the chains are broad and heavy they are meant for men and are called Master slave ring and if the chains are slim and delicate then they are called mistress slave rings and are worn by women.

Poison Rings

Poison rings are rings which are usually single. But they are huge and broad and have a cup like holder with a lid. The lid which forms the face of the ring is either studded with a single stone, small stones, carved or finely etched to resemble a symbol or a Gothic character. The Hemlock poison ring is a massive men’s ring. The crystal is set on top of the lid in order to camouflage the hidden chamber. The adder Bite is a colossal coiled snake which can snap open to reveal a gap. Made of pewter it is 11/2” long and 3” tall. The carved skull poison ring has the secret chamber beneath the skull while the simple dome shaped Onyx studded poison ring snaps open to disclose the cavity.

Armor Rings

Armour Rings are disguised weapons. Like the claw armor ring, which is a 5″ overgrown looking nail. This ring bends in 3 places and acts like armor. The one eyed alien with a strange long, sharp and pointed horn or the dragon head with stag like horns or the vented finger armor or the warrior finger armor ring which exhibits a huge battle axe with the helmet sporting a pointed tip or rings with pointed teeth under a moveable jaw. The adjustable armor blade ring has a retractable blade slides out and locks into position. Another ring looks like a razor blade but is not sharp. These armor rings are used mostly as deterrents. Armor rings can be full finger rings or smaller versions. They are very popular with rock stars and members of associations.

Hip Hop Finger Jewelry

is usually worn and designed by rock stars. They are also called the Bling Bling jewelry or the Iced Look. That is because most of these rings dazzle the eyes with the gems that are studded on the huge rings. Sometimes the entire ring is studded with diamonds or simply is a huge precious stone is the centre piece and often called a ‘Rock’. These rings are huge and cover half the finger. Sometimes two hoops are placed side by side to fit two fingers and this makes just one ring. The Singer Eminem has a line of finger jewelry (rings) that are gaudy and garish in appearance. Rapper Nelly has a two finger ring with his name spelt out in bright diamonds. P. Diddy the famous rapper turned fashion ‘guru’ has a line of rings all styled to represent the “Bling – Bling” trait. Also available is the Canary CZ Iced out men’s power ring in various shapes. The color of the stone can be blue or pink. These stones are about 3/4th inches high and weigh about 11.0 grams. Huge Swarovski crystal set with the finest cubic zircon on silver and platinum finish adorns many celebrities.

Hip Hop finger jewelry is always huge and full of glitter. It symbolizes the lavish life style of these super celebrities.

Unique Characteristics of Finger Jewelry

All finger jewelry is large. It is supposed to stand out and draw attention.

They are heavy and are supposed to cover an entire finger.

They can be worn on any finger.

Sometimes two fingers are used to wear the jewelry.

There are mainly two kinds of finger jewelry, Gothic and Hip hop or Bling Bling finger jewelry.

Gothic ones are dark and somber in appearance with a lot of black or antique look.

Hip Hop fashion demands lot glitter and color.

Rappers and quirky music icons started this trend.

These are supposed to reflect their lavish life style and power and position regarding their newly acquired wealth.

Costume Jewellery

by Shweta Dhanuka

Costume jewellery gained its existence way back in early 20th century. As the name “costume” specifies it was referred to the clothes, which now is also called as ‘outfit’. Therefore, jewellery that was worn in accordance with the clothes was known as Costume Jewellery. Other than the clothes related jewellery, costume jewellery was also referred to the jewellery worn for stage performance in theaters. Fashion jewellery, glass-beaded jewellery and fake jewellery are its additional names.

Costume jewellery gained its existence way back in early 20th century. As the name “costume” specifies it was referred to the clothes, which now is also called as ‘outfit’. Therefore, jewellery that was worn in accordance with the clothes was known as Costume Jewellery. Other than the clothes related jewellery, costume jewellery was also referred to the jewellery worn for stage performance in theaters. Fashion jewellery, glass-beaded jewellery and fake jewellery are its additional names.

It is created using less expensive material for example instead of valuable metals gold, silver and platinum etc gold/silver-plated brass or base metals are used. Apart from the metals, synthetic stone or stones made of glass or plastic are used for crafting this fashionable jewellery in place of precious stones like diamonds, ruby, emeralds and semi precious stones like amethyst, topaz, and aquamarine and so on. In spite of being made up of less costly material, these jewellery pieces are quite classy and often flamboyant. Therefore, it was preferred less in the royal families but now the trend has changed.

Costume Jewellery History

Famous designer Coco Chanel was the one who deeply admired this fascinating jewellery variant. In her years as jewellery designer, she used this trendy jewellery quite a lot and then after costume jewellery gained the upright identification in the fashion industry. Kenneth Jay Lane since 1960s has been known for creating exclusive three strand faux pearl necklace that was well-liked by many in the fashion cognizant part of the society.In this present century, these are gaining popularity everyday as more and more females are getting fashion conscious, who prefer style and alluring look for their personality. Costume jewellery is mostly purchased by people who wish to carry their attire and jewellery in accord to the prevailing trends in the fashion industry. These are certainly not collected for the keepsakes or investment purpose as that of gold ornaments rather it is ideal for stylish and funky look that keeps changing with time. This classy jewellery is not in fashion forever, it is preferred only when it is in fashion that is for few months or one or two years and after the trend in fashion changes the jewellery also changes. However, the jewelries from 40s to 70s are certainly collectibles as it gains the antique value and importance to it.

Costume Jewellery Types

The costume jewels includes necklace, earrings, bracelets, bangles and pendants. The price of all these jewelries is dependent on the material used for example brass metal jewelries are priced less than those which are made using 18 carat gold or silver plating. Similarly, beaded necklace and bracelets are very much affordable than those created using synthetic gemstones.

Necklace

There are many different types of necklace created and are categorized on the basis of the design and components used such as Resin, Glass beaded and shell etc. Any necklace could be worn with any costume but the look of the jewel is enhanced when worn with the right outfit.Resin Necklace– This necklace is the one that could be worn with any outfit. As the name specifies, the main component for this is ‘Resin’ (resin is a synthetic substance used as the basis of plastics produced by some chemical reactions in the laboratory) which is a liquid chemical hardened, grinded, colored and polished to make fine quality beads. It could be ‘casted’ into different unique shapes and styles in multiple colours. The resin beads are usually large in size therefore resin necklace are created using one single strand. It does not fits in the neck rather is little long. It is usually between 18-20 inches long.

Glass Beaded Necklace – These necklace look dazzling as it is created using array of beads made up of glass, bone, metal, wood, ceramic, brass and terracotta. Colorful or single colour beads are strung in either metal chains having various shape loops or 4-strand terry cot/nylon thread. These are created in two styles- one is very long and other is choker style. The long glass beaded necklace as the name suggests are very like. Its length is more than 30 inches. These are very smart and are suited more for casual or western attire. The choker glass beaded necklace is apt for Indian traditional garments heavy zari saris or chaniya choil.

Bone Necklace– This is only for casual western outfits. This is created using beads made from bones and horns. It is available in natural colours that are all shades of whites, black and brown. However, with modern tools varied shapes are given in accordance to the design. The length varies from 18 to 20 inches.

Brass Necklace– It is made of chains and small pieces in different shapes like round, ovals and squares etc. It also comprises of some figures or cross. This necklace variety is created in heavy as well as simple designs. Some people also refer it as Italian jewellery. At present, it is the most popular and fashionable jewellery. The length of this necklace is also between 18 to 20 inches.

Shell Necklace– This fashion necklace is heavy necklace with minimum 6-7 strands of beads twisted together to give a look of one. It is very colorful and attractive. It is very creatively designed as it involves many beads to be strung in varied knots and styles. The unique feature of this necklace is the colours used in it. The length of this necklace varies from 18 to 30 inches. It goes well with garments worn on festive occasions.

Bracelets

Similar to necklace bracelets too are glass beaded that are created in startling colours and designs. Colorful beads are creatively paired with pearls or any other exceptional pieces to create enthralling bracelets that would suit the costume of the wearer. These are found in two varieties viz. the chain bracelets and bangle bracelet. The beads in all sizes and colours as per the design are strung in brass chains to make the bracelets. The length of these bracelets varies from 7 to 9 inches. At both ends of the chains adjustable clasp is attached so that wearer could adjust the bracelet as per her wrist. For bangle bracelets beads are strung in superior quality elastics for tensile strength and longevity. Apart from glass beads, beads made from bones and horns are also used for creating hip-hop bracelets that are adored by the teenagers.These days, wide bracelets of brass or wood are gaining popularity at a very rapid pace. Mostly the brass metal bracelets consist embossed detailing, adjustable size without any clasp are quite trendy. Many different coloured stones are also set in the center of the metal bracelet in some pattern. The thickness of this bracelet variant varies from 4-8 inches. It goes very well with all casual western attire. This style bracelet is referred as cuff.

Earrings

Earrings are the most important jewellery items as it plays a vital role in defining one’s personality. It is crucial to select the right kind of earrings that suits the wearer. Earrings that form costume jewellery are mostly the chandelier earrings or hanging earrings. These would be seldom found in stud or drop earrings pattern. It mostly possesses large detailing in the design like small curves; lots of small pieces joined together which is further enhanced by the use of beads in it. These earrings are classified in two forms viz. ring and hanging in a line. Ring earrings looks good on females with broad face cut. It does not go well with a narrow face cut. These are created using all metals that is brass, gold plated etc. On the other hand hanging earrings could be worn by anyone, it is sure to look good.The components used for creating the exquisite jewellery pieces are same as in necklace and bracelets. Resins, beads made from bone and horns and so on. Beads in multiple colours are strung together to create lovely designs or in some metal mould the beads are added to complement the metal design. These earrings are more suitable for semi-formal outfit. An earring made from only brass metal, which is referred as Italian jewellery, is also very popular these days. Small round pieces of brass metal are joined together to make hanging earrings look stunning on almost every outfit. The length of these varies from 3to 6 inches. Apart from round shape triangle and other geometrical shapes are well liked by females in all the age group. These brass metal costume earrings look good on teenagers as well as middle aged females.

Pendants

Costume jewellery consists of very innovative pendants made up from resin or brass metal. This centerpiece forms the necklace when attached with 4-5 beaded strands from both sides or else simple plain chain to make it a chain necklace. Resin pendants are created to suits one’s personality and linking in order to bring elegant look to the attire. It also uses different colours and shapes of beads in various styles such as glossy, matt, semi-matt, transparent, translucent and opaque. Another form of pendant is ‘Shell Pendant’. It is made up brass metal. It usually is between 20mm to 60 mm in size. Even it could be further reduces or increased as per the choice of the wearer. Round shape is the most common shape however; square, triangle, oval and other innovative shapes are also created. This shell pendant is laser engraved having numerous colour options.This amazing jewellery variation may not be possessing precious gemstones or metals but they are the ideal choice for any evening party, corporate meeting, and casual attire and so on. Gold or silver ornaments sometimes fail to give that most wanted charismatic look to the wearer that is sure to get by wearing fashion jewellery. Therefore, expensive ornaments may be the asset but not be always modish and chic as not so pricey costume jewellery. Experience the same yourself!!

Titanium Facts

by Sheweta Dhanuka

Titanium is one of the unique discoveries in the 18th century. It was initially known as Manachite and was retrieved in the impure form. It is an amazing metal, as it possesses the extreme eminence. It is the only metal having the strength of steel but weight comparable to aluminum. Therefore it is best named after Titans of Greek mythology, recognized for their intense strength. The name ‘Titanium’ was given by German chemist, Martin Kloproth. This incredible metal is certainly the perfect blend of strength, lightweight, beauty and biocompatibility. It is quite fortunate that modern jewelry designer identified the artistic benefits of this miraculous metal and created breathtaking jewelries for women as well as men.

The article penned down here aims to provide the reader with best possible information about this interesting metal. The information would comprise of general know-how about the metal all in respect to jewelry. After reading the article readers would know about few incredible benefits of this jewelry metal variant. Also, the article could act as a buying guide that would be helpful to the readers while making the purchase of spectacular Titanium jewelry. Now on in the text, jewelry would refer to as titanium jewelry.It is a known fact that while making the jewelries, metals need to be mixed with alloys so that it is easy to mould and shape the sturdy metal, be the metal is gold, platinum or titanium etc. Gold is least pure while Titanium is most with 90+% purity. If an individual wish to wear pure metal jewelry then this gray metal is best available choice. However, purity is assured only at the reliable or certified jewelry stores. The jewelry market is flooded with cheats therefore buyer should enquire about the reputation of the seller before making the purchase. And also he/she must be aware of few important aspects like CP grade of the jewelry, Aircraft grade and much more.

Titanium Grades

Jewelries are made up of alloyed titanium. The grades are given on the basis of quantities of other elements mixed to make alloys. Grades are categorized into two viz. CP grade and Aircraft grade.

[1] CP Grade

: This grade is known as commercially pure ( CP ) titanium. This variant is well accepted in the industry and is biocompatible titanium grade. It is further rated from 1 to 4. CP Grade 1 is the softest while 4 is the hardest. With the increase of oxygen quantity in the alloy the hardness increases. The most suitable and regarded is CP Grade 2. It has perfect equilibrium between the required hardness and workability. This can be easily refinished, engraved and shaped.

[2] Aircraft Grade

: This titanium grade is created by mixing aluminum, vanadium and tin to create hardness in the alloy. It is also known as Titanium 6.4. This titanium alternate is widely used for making rings but it is not safe. Therefore, World Titanium Council does not endorse this grade. Sometimes, in case of emergency it becomes difficult to remove aircraft grade titanium jewelry especially the rings. Moreover, unlike CP Grade metal, this is very difficult to refinish or engrave. Also due to the alloy contents, it is not compatible to the sensitive skin and leads to allergy. Thus, buyer should always enquire about the grade before buying any jewelry piece. Aircraft grade jewelry should be avoided to every possible extent.

Benefits of using Titanium

This metal possess extreme tensile strength and high ratio between strength and density. Few of its crucial properties make it ideal for jewelry that is corrosion resistance and biocompatible.

Corrosion Resistant

Titanium is a remarkable jewelry metal as it is 100% hypoallergenic. It does not react to oxygen, salt water and sunlight. It is absolutely neutral when comes in touch with human body. It is reaction free with body heat, sweat or body temperature. It has shielding surface layers that provide it exceptional resistance to corrosive harass by sea air, saltwater and certain acids. It seldom responds to electricity, heat and magnets. Thus, people who are sensitive towards other jewelry metal like silver; gold etc must switch to titanium jewelry. This metal jewelry by no means gets tarnish.

Strong and Durable

Almost all jewelries made up of this corrosion free metal have lifetime warranty because the metal is strong and durable. This is ideal for daily wear jewelry pieces and resists all harsh blows and knocks. Even the precious and semi precious gems are most safe when mounted in this durable metal.

Lightweight

Strong like steel and light as Aluminum, best defines this grey coloured metal. This is the most important characteristic being looked upon by the jewelry designers as well as jewelry wearer. Lightweight jewelry implies comfort. Titanium is a noteworthy metal, it can be used with style along with 100% functionality due to its lightweight while other precious metals like platinum and gold has to forfeit on style and functionality in order to reduce the jewelry weight and also the cost.

Refinish

The jewelries that are worn daily are sure to get the scratches in spite of taking umpteen efforts. And when it is titanium ring then obviously it is taken for granted. The best part of these jewelries is that it could be easily refinished at any nearby jeweler at a reasonable cost.

Uses

Human body is well matched to the physiological inertness of titanium therefore; it is used in many medical treatments like in bone and cartilage replacement surgeries. It is also used to make artificial hips, dental implants and heart valves.This implausible metal is very well combined with white gold, yellow gold and platinum to enhance the look of the ornaments. Further, it is very much suitable for diamonds as well. It makes splendid wedding bands for bride and bridegroom too. The wedding rings of this pure metal carry a lot of meaning to the marriage. It symbolizes strong marriage that lasts forever.

Jewelry Finish

The jewelries are given specific look in accordance with the occasion to wear. For example for bride’s wedding ring, it has to have the elegant and graceful look therefore the design need to be creative and innovative with polished/satin finish. For the casual college attire, sporty look jewelry is more preferred thus matte grayish finish gives that needed stealthy appearance and so on. Titanium finishes could be categorized into four viz. polished, satin and anodized.

Polished Finish

This finish gives the look which is close to platinum and surgical steel look. It is certainly far different from white or silver rather nearer to the special metallic glance.

Satin Finish

This finish is referred to brushed or matte finish. It is a precious metal texturing technique that falls between a matte finish and a brilliant one. It could be best defined as the semi-glossy finish by making series of shallow parallel lines scratched on the surface of the metal, reducing its reflectivity and creating the matter texture.

Anodized Finish

It is also called as colorful finish as all colours of rainbow could be created in this finish option. The ‘micronic’ oxide layer that covers the metal is slightly solidified through electric currents at diverse levels. Current at different intensity and duration results in one respective refractive effect that has its specified colour. Hence varied refractive effects are created that appears are different colours. No additional dye or coloring pigment is added. This process seems interesting and attractive but jewelries with anodized finish are very much prone to scratches. And so it requires good amount of care.

Titanium is a lustrous, silver-gray, metallic element and jewelry created using this high silhouette metal is absolutely awesome. It is 100% compatible with the human body or in other words it could be said that as diamonds are females best friend so is titanium to human skin. This versatile metal certainly has a forever resizing policy. A friend for the entire life span with a lifetime guarantee is certainly priceless therefore; titanium jewelry should be must have in the jewelry box. Hope you agree !.

The Jewels Of The British Monarchs

by Ms Nandita Ray

One of the vastly admired and appreciated collections of jewelry belongs to the British Royals. Infatuation and involvement with jewelry by the British Monarchs can be traced way back to the beginning of the Empire. However erotic excitement of beautifying oneself and establishing their exalted status led two consorts Queen Mary and Queen Alexandra create fantastic pieces of jewelry, which still remain to delight the wearer and the beholder.

Fascination with jewelry will never end. From the Pasha to the Lazarus the love for the beautiful baubles knows no boundary. Mortals leave behind their imperishable baubles for posterity to rejoice in. One of the vastly admired and appreciated collections of jewelry belongs to the British Royals. Infatuation and involvement with jewelry by the British Monarchs can be traced way back to the beginning of the Empire. However erotic excitement of beautifying oneself and establishing their exalted status led two consorts Queen Mary and Queen Alexandra create fantastic pieces of jewelry, which still remain to delight the wearer and the beholder.

The British Royal Jewelry consists of famed crowns, tiaras, necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets, swords and peerless diamonds and rubies and emeralds, spoon, maces, spurs plate and medals. They are considered property of the Government and cannot be taken out of the country without permission. Some of them are stored in the Tower Of London for public display. This is because the Crown Jewels have had an exciting and riotous history of attempted thefts!

Unbelievable History

It is believed that King John lost the Crown Jewels in quick sand in 1216. While Edward the III pawned most of his jewels in order to pay his angry troops while fighting abroad. James wife pawned the Crown jewels at the beginning of a civil war in Holland. The attempted theft of the Crown Jewels by Col. Thomas Blood was bold and reckless. He was however apprehended at the East Gate of the Tower with the Crown and the Orb and one scepter. This attempt was in 1671. They were hidden underground during World War Two but the exact location was never disclosed.

Crown Jewels

Crown Jewels include the famous crowns, banqueting plates, insignia, robes, coronation spoon, Royal maces, the spurs and famous gems. All these jewels have a unique history behind them and most of them are still used in the coronation of the monarch. Britain is the only European country that has retained this ancient tradition. The racy and thrilling history that surrounds the jewels make them very interesting and appealing. Thus, a little information is imperative since it will go a long way to explain why they are held in such awe. After the execution of Charles the I, the crown jewels were “totally broken”. This was done in order to signify the removable and cessation of the “detestable rule of Kings”. Who else but the traitor Oliver Cromwell had this done! He was after all behind the king’s beheading. Some pieces were sold intact like the Coronation spoon and chain which were later returned to Charles the II. The gold that was smelted was made into coins and the precious stones sold separately.

Royal Regalia

When Charles the II ascended the throne he had the entire lost regalia remade at the cost of 12,185 pounds. They were used for his coronation in 1661. This was possible because a detailed record existed. The regalia consist of 2 of the Royal maces, 3 swords each representing Mercy, Spirituality and Justice, the St. Edwards Staff (1661) and the Sword Of State, symbolizing the Sovereign’s Royal authority. The Ampulla, made from solid gold with 600 precious stones and pearls embedded in it dating from 1661 is a golden flask which holds the holy oil. The anointing the spoon which is considered the oldest surviving item was probably made by Henry II or Richard I .The spurs also ancient, perhaps 1661, represent Knighthood, the gold bracelets representing sincerity and wisdom and the Sovereign’s Orb, which is set with precious stones and pearls for made for Charles I and cost him 1,150 pounds. The coronation ring is also considered very famous. It represents kingly dignity and was made in 1831 for William IV’s coronation. Scepter with the crown atop symbolizes the King’s ephemeral power while the one with the Dove atop symbolizes the king’s spiritual role. The bracelets in the Regalia are 11/2″wide and 21/2′ broad. They are made of solid gold and are lined with deep red velvet. The emblems of the three kingdoms and the symbol of France, Fleur de Lys are enameled on it.

Apart from these jewels used for ceremonies there are famous jewels of the Crown. These are seldom used and are generally stored away.

Edward the Confessor’s Sapphire

This sapphire which is set on the Maltese cross resting atop the Imperial State Crown was worn as a ring by Edward. He was buried with it in 1066. When his tomb was opened in 1101, the sapphire was taken and reset in a crown worn by Henry I.

The Timur Ruby

The Timur Ruby is a magnificent spinel and weighs 325.50 carats. It is inscribed with the names of the several (previous) owners who were all Mughal emperors.

courtesy: www.royalcollection.org.uk

The Agra Diamond

Original owner was the Maharaja of Gwalior a fancy pink (natural) color, cushion cut stone weighing 28.15 carats and 21.10 by 19.94 by 11.59mm. It was given to Humayun after the battle of Panipat. Babur wore it on his turban. When the English came to rule it was smuggled out by them and has been in their possession ever since.

The Imperial crown of India

The Imperial crown of India was first made for queen Victoria weighing 34.5 ounces and studded with 6000 diamonds was last worn by King George who wrote in his diary ‘ wearing it for 31/2 hours caused him great discomfort ‘. So he had a new Imperial crown made for his visit to Delhi, India which has 2,868 diamonds, 273 pearls, 17 sapphires, 11 emeralds and 5 rubies. Famous stones in this crown are the Black Prince’s ruby, weighing 150 carats and 5cmlong and the Cullinan diamond also known as the Lesser Star of Africa.

Kohinoor diamond

The world’s largest cut diamond is now a part of the Royal scepter. While the famous Kohinoor diamond sits perkily on the Queen’s coronation crown which was once ‘valued at half the expense of the whole world’. It was also believed that Kohinoor ‘mountain of Light’ weighing 108.93 carats, was cursed. Male owners would suffer but female owners would rule the world.

St. Edwards Crown

St. Edwards Crown was made in 1661. It is made from pure gold and has four crosses pattee and four fleur-de-tris with two arches on top. It has 444 precious stones and the gold is supposed to have come from Edward the Confessor’s original crown and therefore carries his name. It weighs about 5 pounds.

The State Diadem

The State Diadem made in 1820 for the consort of King George the IV and was used for the coronation of Queen Victoria and Elizabeth the II.
courtesy: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crown_Jewels_of_the_United_Kingdom

Crown of Mary of Modena

Crown of Mary of Modena was the queen of James the II and her crown was worn by wives of the following Kings. By the twentieth century it needed renovation and Queen Alexandra the consort of Edward the VII added a new crown with more arches was added to it. However a new crown was made for queen Mary, consort of George the V in 1911.In 1937 the last new crown was made for Queen Elizabeth, the queen mother where the famous Kohinoor diamond was set.Queen Victoria wore a small diamond crown whenever she could as she preferred this to the Imperial crown.

The Cambridge and Delhi durbar Parure

The Cambridge and Delhi durbar Parure is a marvelous set of emerald jewelry that consists of necklace, rings, earrings, bracelet and an emerald diadem.

The Prince Albert Brooch

The Prince Albert Brooch is an enormous sapphire gifted to Queen Victoria by Prince Albert. This is a special gift since it was given to her a day before their wedding.

Queen Mary’s – largeruby earrings

Queen Mary’s – largeruby earrings with its deep red glow astounds the beholder.

The V shaped ruby and diamond bandeau collar

The present queen Elizabeth wore for her photograph on the front cover of the book The Jewels of Queen Elizabeth by Leslie Fields.

The Cullinan Diamonds

The famous diamond cut into smaller gems and gifted by the South African Government to the British Monarchy. It was cut into: –
Cullinan I which is also the second largest cut diamond in the world. It is also the largest of the nine stones cut from the original diamond. It weighs 530.20 carats. It is pear shaped and is 58.9 by 45 by 27.7 millimeters. It has 76 facets. It is set on the Royal Scepter and ii can be removed and used as a pendant. It is lionized as the “Star of Africa”.Cullinan II weighs 317.40 carats and is cushioned shaped and is set in the center front band of the Imperial State Crown of Great Britain.

Cullinan III weighs 94.40 carats and is pear shaped. As the norm goes it can be used as a pin and hangs from Cullinan IV.

Cullinan IV is cushion shaped and set in the crown and can be used as a pendant also. It weighs 60.60 carat.

Cullinan III and IV are known as the “Lesser Stars of Africa”.

Cullinan V weighs 18.80 carats and is triangular pear shaped diamond that is anchored in platinum and this brooch was a part of a very large stomacher that also carries the Cambridge emeralds. Each part of this stomacher can come apart and worn as an individual brooch. It is often worn by Queen Elizabeth II as a brooch.

Cullinan VI marquise cut stone weighing 11.50 carats. It was a gift from Edward to his wife to be Queen Alexandra a day before the wedding. Today Queen Elizabeth uses it as a drop pendant from her diamond and emerald necklace.

Cullinan VII is also marquise cut weighing 8.80 carats and is a piece of jewelry that can alternate as pin or pendant. Queen Mary added it as a pendant to the oval cushion Cullinan diamond VIII.

Cullinan VIII is cushion cut weighing 6.80 carats. It carries the Cullinan VII as a drop.

Cullinan IX is 4.39 carats pear shaped ring in prong setting and once belonged to Queen Mary wife of King Edward. It now belongs to Elizabeth the II.

Queen Mary’s photograph taken in 1919 shows her wearing a platinum and diamond pendant and chain have most of the 96 smaller pieces of the original Cullinan diamond. Queen Elizabeth who inherited this piece rarely wears this since it “gets into the soup”. The Cullinan diamond was presented to King Edward VII in 1908. He had Mr. Asscher to cut it into 9 major gemstones. After the 9 major pieces, 96 carats of unpolished gems were taken by Asscher as payment. They were eventually bought by the King himself. And thus Queen Mary started the process of consolidating them into jewelry for the Royal family.

Other Royal Jewelry

Caroline of Ansbach, consort of George I was a keen collector of jewelry especially cameos and intaglio pieces.

Queen Mary the consort of George V collected jade, lacquer, silver, enamels, rings and Faberge’ items which are part of the famous jewelry of the British Monarchy.

From the rule of Anne till the 20th century it was common to use hired jewels for the use in the crown and other pieces of jewelry during coronation only. Afterwards the gems were returned and the regalia was once again reset with plastic or false stones and set out for public display.

Britain is the only European monarchy that still uses its inherited Regalia. It has been in use since 1660.

When the Imperial State Crown is used, it is removed from its display case and a note is left behind saying “in use”.

The first endeavor to consolidate the jewels and safe keeping them was executed by Edward the Confessor in 1042-66. He stored it in the Westminster Abbey.

The Crown jewels have been locked in the Tower of London since the robbery in 1303.
After the restoration of Charles I, the regalia was kept locked up in the Tower and shown to visitors after payment of a “viewing fee”. This system is still continuing.

After the second attempted robbery an armed guard was appointed.

The visitors were locked in a windowless room as they saw the Regalia.

In 1994 a new block called the “Jewel House” was inaugurated by the present queen where the Crown Jewels are displayed.

The crown Jewels form one of the most famous and the most viewed collection in the world.

The Crown Jewels form a part of the National heritage and is held by the Sovereign.

The Jewels Of The British Monarchs Part IV The Queen of Hearts

by Nandita Ray

Queen Elizabeth II one of the richest women in the world today, with an estimated fortune of 600 billion by Forbes magazine, her personal jewelry is worth 57 million $. This does not include the Crown Jewels.

The land where the sun never sets ultimately started losing its hold on the world. The glamour and the glitz associated with the British monarchy started shredding and the glow dimming. It had become aloof and secluded and left alone by the masses. Then Princess Diana came waltzing into the ivory tower and with her charming grace to become the Queen of Hearts, loved and adored by the world. Princess Di as she was popularly called was known for her easy to adopt hairstyle and her sense of dressing and accessorizing. Unlike her mother in law, the present queen, she was no ice maiden. She was young and vivacious. What an upheaval it created there! Her love for life and her attitude, her conduct was absolutely different from her Royal in laws. Her friends were pop stars and actors, her work involved the slums, the poor, the sick and stepping out from the pristine surrounding she stooped to conquer the world with her amazing grace, delicate beauty and sad blue eyes. It was difficult to slot her and like her, her jewelry collection ranged from her from sapphire ring and family heirlooms to pearls and costume jewelry! Diana is known for her simplistic style.

Before I talk about Diana, Queen Elizabeth II must be included because she remains one of the richest women in the world today, with an estimated fortune of 600 billion by Forbes magazine, her personal jewelry is worth 57 million $. This does not include the Crown Jewels.

Queen Elizabeth the II

The present monarch, who recently became the longest serving English monarch, has her jewels stored in an underground chamber which is as large as an ice rink. It is 40 feet underground. Most of her personal jewels are gifts. It is believed that she favors pearls though she has some of the world’s finest and rarest diamonds, rubies and sapphires. Amongst her famous collection worthy of mention are: –

• Timur Ruby: – the famous spinel weighing 325.50 carats.
• The Cambridge & Delhi Durbar Parure: – a set of necklace, earrings, bracelet and a small diadem made with ace emeralds.
• The Prince Albert Brooch: – Victoria presented her with this brooch which was given to Victoria by Prince Albert a day prior to their wedding.
• Queen Mary’s: – large ruby earrings
• Ruby and Diamond Bandeau: – which the queen wears often.
• Engagement ring: – designed by Prince Philip. It has a diamond taken from the tiara of his mother. It is a solitaire diamond weighing 3 carats. She wears it always. She is not a very fond of finger rings though.
• The Cambridge Lover’s knot Tiara: – with its prestigious history of having been worn by Duchess of Cambridge 1810 and the Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg – Strelitz in 1890, Queen Mary in 1926, Queen Elizabeth II in 1955 and also worn by the late Princess Diana. It also has a matching bow shaped diamond brooch.
• Queen Mary’s “Rose of York” ruby and diamond bracelet: – it was a pendant which has been reset into a bracelet.
• Queen Mary’s Russian fringe necklace: – tiara mounted in gold and silver and set with diamonds. This tiara is made in such a way that when the clasp at the back is unhinged from the frame, the tiara can be turned into a necklace. It contains diamonds from the collection of King George III. This was made by Garrard and is based on a Russian prototype and is extremely popular with the Queen having worn it a number of times.
• The Grenville Chandelier earrings: – and the King George VI Festoon Necklace gifted by her parents on her wedding. The earrings with drop diamond have every known modern cut of diamonds at that time.
• The Goodman necklace: – consists of seven large emeralds and 3 smaller ones set on a platinum filigree base sprinkled with diamonds. This once belonged to the famous naturalist Goodman in 1890. After his death his daughters offered it to the Queen thinking it once belonged to the Queen Josephine of France.
• Mary Opphenheimer: – gave her a 6 carat blue and white diamond of flawless quality for promoting Anglo American monopoly. This enhanced the prestige of diamonds when they were running low.
• Queen Victoria’s: – bow shaped brooch which she generally wears on the left hand side
• Prince Philip: – gave her a brooch on their 5th wedding anniversary. It consists of interlocking alphabets E and P, the Prince’s naval badge set in diamonds and roses made with diamonds and rubies in memory of Queen’s father.
• The Nizam of Hyderbad: – presented her with a flat platinum necklace with a double drop pendant set with 13 diamonds. The pendant can be detached from the necklace and is made up with 38 brilliant cut open back brackets.
• Wedding gift: – given by her father consists of sapphire and diamond suite, ruby and diamond ring, sapphire and diamond earrings.
• The diamond watch: – presented to her by the oldest Swiss watch company, Vacheron & Constantin in 1947. It was a wedding gift. She gifted this to Diana.
• T. Williamson: – a wealthy diamond mine owner presented her with a rare 23 carat pink diamond, flawless and perfect shaped into a daffodil brooch.
• King Faisal of Saudi Arabia: – gifted her with a necklace resembling a lace made with diamonds. This was designed by none other than Harry Winston.
• The Flower Basket brooch: – presented to her by her mother after the birth of Prince Charles. It is made up of diamonds, rubies and sapphires. It carries the photographs of Queen Elizabeth and baby Charles. This is also her favorite.
• Pink Corals: – a simple string of corals which once belonged to her mother was given to her when she was a baby. This is a very sentimental piece and is priceless for her.
• The Rhodesian Flame Lily: – made with diamonds and set on platinum was gifted to her on her 21st birthday by the school children of Rhodesia.
• South African Government: – gave her a necklace set with 21 diamonds of the finest quality.
• The City of London: – presented with a diamond Lily brooch.
• The Austrian Wattle brooch: – with 150 diamonds, carrying many rare yellow and some blue and white diamonds. It is designed as a spray of wattles.
• The Brazilian Government: – presented her with a large necklace with square cut aquamarines and diamonds and a pair of earrings during her coronation year.
• The Cullinam diamonds: – she possesses the pear shaped Cullinam diamond set as a brooch. This was one of the pieces that were cut from the original diamond weighing 1.25 pounds.
• The Cullinam II & IV diamonds: – weighing 94 and 63 carats which she fondly calls “Granny chips” is also a part of her collection.

This is not the full and complete list of her Majesty’s personal jewelry collection. But the famous Leslie Field’s the American author notes that she has: –

• 34 pair of earrings
• 98 brooches
• 46 necklaces
• 37 bracelets
• 5 pendants
• 14 watches
• 15 rings

She ranks 23 among the 100 richest people in the world.

Princess Margaret

The younger sister of Queen Elizabeth II was known for her spirit and beauty. She too possessed some priceless pieces given to her by her mother Elizabeth I and her grandmother Queen Mary. After her demise they were auctioned off to pay for her children’s inheritance tax. Her ex husband Lord Snowdown was displeased. The sale produced unexpected results. They got more than what they had expected. There were 192 pieces in all that were auctioned.

• Poltimore Tiara: – is the most famous of all her jewels. She wore it on her wedding to Lord Snowdown in 1960. It is styled into leaves and flowers all made of diamonds. It was made by Garrard and was given to her by her grandmother Queen Mary. It is set in silver and gold and has clusters of diamonds with diamond set scroll motifs and each circled by cut diamonds. It can be converted into a circlet, 11 brooches and a necklace. This piece was sold to an Asian collector for 1.7 million $ by Christies.
• Pearl and diamond necklace: – gifted to her by her grand mother Queen Mary on her 18th birthday in 1948.
• The Antique Riviere Necklace: – again given by Queen Mary. A single row of 34 graduated diamonds which a cushion shaped.
• Five Rows of pearl necklace: – with a diamond clasp mounted in platinum made in 1928 and is 30.0 cms long.
• The Famous M shaped brooch: – this is a diamond monogram brooch set beneath a crown.
• A Ruby and cultured pearl necklace: – made in 1930 which was worn by her when she was three years old.
• A Rose of York Brooch: -made by Cartier in 1955.
• A diamond and ruby ring: – given by her mother Elizabeth I with a note “now you have lost a son you must have something new’. This was given when her son Linley married.
• A Gilt hedgehog Brooch: – which was valued at 50 pounds was actually sold for 5, 760 $ in the auction by Christies.
• A Jabot Pin: – designed as a butterfly with cultured pearl, sold for 6,000 $ when it was valued at 60 pounds.
• A marquise: – cut diamond ring.
• Two Art Deco Bracelets: – one made with a solitaire marquise cut diamond surrounded with rubies and the other is a half hoop with three rubies. Also an art deco brooch made with sapphire and diamonds. A hand written note says ‘For darling Margaret on her confirmation day from her loving granny Mary Rose’.
• A grey cultured pearl Bermuda Cedar Brooch: – bought in 1990 when she visited the “jungle island of Cedar’. Made in gold shaped as a sprig of Bermuda Cedar and is studded with cultured pearls as berries”.
• A pair of cultured pearl and diamond earrings: – made by the top notch Canadian jewelers Birks. Each pearl is set above a trefoil of brilliant cut diamonds. Also accompanying it was a brooch shaped like a maple leaf. These two were presented by the city of Montreal.

Not all the jewels that were auctioned by Christies are listed here. This is just a fragment.

Diana

Her father was Lord Spencer and his ancestry can be traced back to Marie Antoinette of France. Princess Diana was married to Prince Charles and for her wedding she wore the Spencer Tiara made in 1767 or 1830. It is difficult to pin point the exact date as it was reset. It is designed with tulips and long stemmed flowers and stars molded in gold and silver. She loved it and worn it often.

• From Queen Mary’s: – collection she got the emerald and diamond choker. She wore this as a head band. Prince Charles bought her a matching art deco style emerald and diamond bracelet to match this choker. She also wore the Queen Mary’s famous “Cambridge Lover’s Knot” Tiara which was designed by the Queen in May 1914. In 1935 the queen had the top row of pearls spikes removed. This was loaned to Princess Diana by the present Queen for state functions. It had a pair of matching pearl drop earrings which she wore with the tiara.
• From her mother Frances: – she got a pair of stunning diamond earrings which she wore for the wedding in the chapel on 29th July 1981.
• The Queen mother: – gave her a brooch made out of sapphire and surrounded by diamonds. Diana got it remodeled and had it set on her 6 strand pearl choker. She wore it frequently and this blue sapphire matching her blue eyes became her signature style.
• Prince Charles: -The famous blue sapphire engagement ring was surrounded by 18 brilliant cut diamonds. She gifted this to her son William. This was made by Garrard Jewelers. Sapphire was her favorite gemstone. Prince Charles gave her numerous gifts like the heart shaped necklace of gold and pearls, a heart shaped gold bracelet, a green diamond set of necklace, earrings and bracelet set in white gold. Charles gave her numerous bracelets like the charm bracelet, one for each year of their marriage. In 1982- 84 he presented her with the two alphabets W and H in gold to celebrate the birth of their sons, Prince William and Harry. Ballet shoes because she loved ballet, a tennis racquet because she loved the game, polo cap because he loves polo, St. Paul’s cathedral, the church where they were married, a bear because she loved cuddy teddies, an apple for her love for Manhattan city and a pig a private joke. She never wore the bracelet! She wore a silver bracelet with the word ‘Princess’.
• The Swan Lake: – jewelry set which she wore to the Royal gala performance was made by Garrard in 1997. Princess Diana had it designed and made with South Sea Pearls with matching pearl and diamond earrings. It was sold after her death for 326,500 pounds. One of her favorites was a three row pearl choker with a turquoise flower clasp.
• Costume Jewelry: – her favorite fashion accessories were mainly costume jewelry fashioned and sold by Butler and Wilson in London. The large snake brooch which she wore, the pair of heart shaped earrings with starburst clips was bought from him. Simon Wilson says, “She used costume jewelry to customize her clothes and to add wit and individuality to her wardrobe”.

Most of her jewelry was inherited from the Spencer’s and the Royal family. They were mostly family heirlooms. She got some gifts from head of states like the watch from the crown prince of Saudi Arabia. The National Associations of Goldsmiths presented her with a pretty gold and white necklace with sapphire flowers. It also had the Prince of Wales feathers in the center. She donated this sapphire and gold necklace to the Kazanjian’s Jewels for Charity.

It can be noted easily that with minimal jewelry and simple dress style Diana became the most popular and sought after celebrity who became the “Queen of Hearts” for millions of people around the world.

Reference

• Book The Jewels of Queen Elizabeth II by Leslie Field.
• Book “Famous Jewelry Collectors” by Stephano Papi and Alexandra Rhodes.
• Christie’s website
• www.royal.gov.uk
• www.Iatwn.com
• www.antiquesandthearts.com

Gold Futures Trading Introduction

by Madhubanti Rudra

Both in the developing world and in the developed ones, the gold is treated as an asset class in itself. But in the backward economies, you have to trade in gold physically to take advantage from its price volatility. Contrastingly in the developed nations, where commodity futures market have flourished for years, you don’t have to buy or sell gold from physical market to cut profit out of it. Here hoarding gold is replaced by trading in gold future.

There are pockets in the developing world, where gold is still preferred as the safest tool of savings and investment. Both in the developing world and in the developed ones, the gold is treated as an asset class in itself. But in the backward economies, you have to trade in gold physically to take advantage from its price volatility.

Contrastingly in the developed nations, where commodity futures market have flourished for years, you don’t have to buy or sell gold from physical market to cut profit out of it. Here hoarding gold is replaced by trading in gold future.

Let’s explain the difference between physical trading of gold and the concept of futures trading with the example below.

Suppose the current gold price is $1000 per ounce and you have $100,000 for investment at your disposal. This much money will allow you to buy 100 ounce of gold. Now say after three months when the price of gold touches $1100 per ounce, you decide to sell it off to make a cool profit of $100 per ounce and hence $10,000 for your total holding over three months time.

Now let’s see what happens in the futures market with the same amount of gold and the similar assumption regarding the rise in the gold price. In majority gold exchanges of the world, futures contracts till four months are allowed. Let’s assume that market remains stable over the next three-month.

Now when you are trading in gold futures, you don’t have an obligation to buy or sell a specific quantity of the metal and cough up the entire price. Trading futures of any commodity means taking delivery of the underlying commodity at a given date in the future. For the seasoned investors, this is referred to as taking a long position.

To trade in gold futures, one needs to have a trading account which involves keeping a deposit. The amount of deposit varies with the exchanges all over the world. This is the margin money, which is required by the exchange. The traders have to buy a minimum volume of the gold as futures contract. Suppose the minimum volume is 100 ounce.

For the minimum amount of futures contract your initial investment is: the margin money which usually doesn’t exceed 10% of the investment, plus the brokerage charge which usually doesn’t exceed .25%. That means the investment for minimum volume of gold will cost you roughly $115.

Now gold market is one of the most liquid market and that make the futures price always touch the price of the underlying. Thus with 100,000 bucks in your pocket, you will be able to enter into the contract for almost 800 ounces of gold which is 8 times more than the physical market.

Due to this market dynamics, one can buy minimum volumes of gold for many times cheaper than it actually costs in the physical market and naturally with the same amount of investment, one will command many times more volumes of gold than he can do in the physical market.

With the same dynamics, at the end of three months, by selling 800 ounces of gold one can make a gross profit that is again many times more the profit made in physically gold market.

So you see how your gold can spin money for you and this is true for a bullish as well as a bearish market. Sounds to hot to resist? But don’t burn your hands before training yourself in the basics of gold futures trading— the whole affair has its downsides as well and you have to learn how to guard these risk factors. In any case, you have to make sure your delivery entails gold certification and accreditation by the assayer of the exchange.