Author: admin

    Opal Gallery

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    Opal Gallery

    by Mark

    Opal Gallery

    Opal, its name is derived from ancient Sanskrit word ‘upala’ that means valuable stone and from the Greek term ‘opallios’ that means colour change. Both these derivations are ideal for this amazing gemstone.

    Black Opal
    Black Opal, It is most-sought-after variety of opal. It is treasure all over the world because in this particular colour, the colour play is displayed at its best. It comes in all deep and dark colour variations.
    Black Opal
    Play of colors in Opal.
    Black Opal
    Black Opal
    Boulder Opal
    Boulder Opal: It possess natural brown body colour or the back that appears black from the front. It is too available in all colour variations. Often it possesses rolling surface and ironstone inclusions. It can be given any innovative cut.

    Australian Opal
    Australian opal
    Australian Opal
    Australian Opal
    Rough Black Matrix Opals
    Rough black matrix opals
    Australian Opal
    Black Australian opals from Lightning Ridge, Australia
    Rough Opals
    Opal from a mine in the state of Utah. These are in the rough, unprocessed form.
    Green Opal
    Green Opal

    Know Your Aquamarine

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    Know Your Aquamarine

    by Erum

    With a name that literally means sea water, the most acceptable color for this stone is a clear transparent sky-blue. Much Aquamarine has a bluish-green color, and the color is caused due to the presence of iron unlike emerald in which chromium is the coloring agent.

    Aquamarine

    Placing a spotlight on the immensely popular member of the Beryl family- Aquamarine we delve into the beautiful depths of this gemstone. With a name that literally means sea water, the most acceptable color for this stone is a clear transparent sky-blue. Much Aquamarine has a bluish-green color, and the color is caused due to the presence of iron unlike emerald in which chromium is the coloring agent.

    Other varieties of the mineral beryl are the hugely popular emerald, the pink to peach-pink variety morganite named after the American banker JP Morgan who is also an enthusiastic gemstone collector and the colorless goshenite. There is also a yellow variety of beryl known as ‘heliodor’ (a name derived from the Greek words meaning sun and gift) that occurs in a wonderfully rich golden-yellow color.

    Occurrence

    Many Brazilian states provide large quantities of good quality beryls including aquamarine and other colored beryls, the most famous amongst them being Minas Gerais. Small, deep blue aquamarine is also found in localities in the African nations of Kenya, Nigeria, Zimbabwe and Zambia. The Ural mountains, Madagascar, scattered localities in the US, Namibia and Burma (Myanmar) are also some other places where gem quality aquamarine is mined.

    Aquamarine is found in pegmatites as well as water-worn pebbles. Unlike emeralds the stones are found in large crystals of flawless clarity from which large clear stones can be cut. Cut aquamarines need to be of some considerable size for the color to be sufficiently intense to produce a good colored stone.

    Treatment

    As mentioned above aquamarines need to be of a considerably large size for the color to be sufficiently intense, most blue aquamarine encountered in the market today is the result of heat treatment on greenish-yellow or brownish-yellow stones. The blue color is induced by heating to a temperature between 250 and 720 degree Celsius for varying time periods. The resultant color is permanent.

    Care

    Aquamarine like emerald has a tendency to brittleness, therefore care should be taken while handling the stone and setting it in jewelry.

    Identification

    Aquamarine exhibits distinct Pleochroism. When viewed through a dichroscope ‘twin colors’ can be observed. These colors are deep blue and colorless and their strength depends on the depth of color of the stone. Aquamarine can be easily picked out of a parcel of similar looking stones by viewing them together through a Chelsea Color filter. The aquamarine will appear a strong greenish-blue under the filter.

    Simulants

    The most convincing imitation is offered by synthetic spinel colored pale blue by cobalt. However these stones have an entirely different refractive index (1.72) and specific gravity (3.63) from those of aquamarine (RI: 1.57 to 1.58, SG: 2.65 to 2.8). The quickest and easiest test for a busy jeweler in this case is to place the suspected stone close to a strong light and view it through a Chelsea color filter held close to the eye. The synthetic spinel will show a distinct red under it whereas an aquamarine would show green.

    Imitations in pale blue glass are sometimes deceptive to the eye but are easily distinguished by the characteristic inclusions of glass- gas bubbles, swirls and mold marks. Also on a Refractometer a glass gem will show a single shadow edge as glass is isotropic.

    The only natural stone closely resembling aquamarine is blue topaz, which gives Refractometer readings of 1.610 and 1.620 as compared to the 1.57 and 1.58 which are the more common readings for aquamarine.

    Inclusions

    Although generally inclusion free and eye-clean, aquamarine has characteristic inclusions that appear as hollow tubes- known as rain.

    Trivia

    Chelsea Color Filter (CCF)

    The Chelsea Color Filter was originally developed in the laboratory of the London Chamber of Commerce in 1934 and subsequently marketed by the Gemological Association. Through this filter a typical emerald of good commercial quality will appear red. All green pastes, most soude emeralds, green sapphire and most tourmalines will show no red through the filter.

    Blue gems in which cobalt is the coloring agent also appear red through the CCF. Hence synthetic blue spinel, blue cobalt glass, or a doublet with a blue cobalt glass base all appear red or an orange-brown color (in case of the spinel). A word of caution though; natural blue spinel can appear reddish through the filter and so can a Sri Lankan sapphire containing a touch of chromium as the coloring agent.

    Some Common Reactions Under Chelsea Color Filter

    1.Synthetic Emerald (Cr)Red
    2.Blue Glass (Co)Red
    3.Synthetic Blue Spinel (Co)Red
    4.Synthetic Blue Quartz (Co)Pink
    5. Natural Aquamarine (Fe)Green
    6. Natural Zircon (Blue)Green
    7.Dyed Green ChalcedonyRed to Orange Red
    8.Dyed Blue ChalcedonyRed to Pink
    9. Natural Emerald (Cr/V/Fe)Pink to Red / Green to Yellow Green
    10.Demantoid GarnetReddish
    11.Blue TopazBlue Green

    Refractometer

    One test to determine a gem’s identity is to measure the refraction of light in the gem. Every material has a critical angle, at which point light is reflected back internally. This can be measured using a Refractometer and thus a gem’s identity could be ascertained.

    A gemological Refractometer is a device that projects the rays of light reflected from a gemstone onto a scale. This scale can be seen through the eyepiece of the instrument to be partly in shadow and partly brightly illuminated. The position of the shadow edge enables one to read the refractive index of the gemstone and also measure its birefringence.

    Important Emerald Mines In The World

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    Important Emerald Mines In The World

    by Mark

    Emerald deposits are found all over the world, the primary mines being in parts of USA, Brazil, Madagascar, Africa, India and Australia.

    SUMMARY: Emerald deposits are found all over the world, the primary mines being in parts of USA, Brazil, Madagascar, Africa, India and Australia.

    Emeralds – Their use and their origins have been traced back to India and Egypt, to about 5000 years ago with the name being derived from the Greek word ‘smaragdos’ meaning the ‘green stone’. The 2205 carat “jug”, cut from a single crystal in the Viennese treasury is one of the famous crystals. The May birthstone and the stone for 20th and 35th anniversaries is the Emerald.

    raw emerald

    Courtesy: Orbital Joe

    Emerald is a ‘cyclosilicate’ and it is mostly found in a crystal form and it is a hexagonal prismatic. An emerald is a deep green beryl with a vitreous luster that comes in a hardness scale of 7.5-8. The emeralds chemical composition is aluminum beryllium silicate Al2Be3 (Si6O18). It is sensitive to heat and pressure due to which it has a brittle tenacity and conchoidal fracture. Beryl has a specific gravity of average to medium high 2.66 – 2.87 with a refractive index of 1.562 – 1.602 and may have an uneven distribution of color, though its color is stable in heat and light. It is also possible to have cat’s eye and asterism stones also. The chromium, also called the impurity element and possibly some vanadium give emeralds their green color. The general belief is that chromium is what defines the emerald whereas vanadium is just green beryl. Emerald, with a dispersion of 0.014, is transparent but generally clouded with inclusions with a blue green and a yellow green color due to the presence of Pleochroism. It is advisable never to clean emerald in steam cleaner or an ultrasonic bath due to its tendency of being brittle.

    Cutting of emeralds is an art in itself. It can be either step cut, faceted or fashioned “en cabochon”. The emerald cut is a step cut that was developed in the 17th century.

    Private Emerald Mine Russia

    The Urals Mining Co. was founded in 2005 and now they hold the rights for the development of the Sverdlovsk emerald deposit, located near the village of Malyshevo. It has been found that this deposit has reserves to the tune of over 600 kgs of emeralds in the C1 and the C2 types. This private company is the first to be seen in the Russian market for emeralds. No other mine is operating in Russia as of now.

    North Carolina

    In the United States, the Emerald Hollow Mine is open for prospecting and it is the only mine to do so. This mine sits snug at the foothills of the Brushy Mountains in North Carolina in the small town of Hiddenite. On the North American continent this place holds the first place as one of the most unique and fascinating geological location. There are over 60 types of minerals and gems that occur naturally and you will find some rare gems like the garnet, topaz, aquamarine, citrine, amethyst, sapphire, quartz crystals to name a few. Hiddenite is a very rare gemstone and it can be found only in Hiddenite the village.

    Columbia

    There are the various geological conditions in which beryl is found and this includes conditions like metamorphic schist, greisens and volcanic rhyolites which are hydro thermally formed. The Columbian deposits are hydrothermal in origin and the hot water passes through the calcite rich rocks. The Columbian mines have deposits of emeralds that can be distinguished by their matrix rock. The deposits are hand worked and the gems are unearthed from the white and gray calcite of the pegmatic veins and from carbonaceous shale. Unfortunately about 70% of these are lost in the process of faceting.

    Minas Gerais Mining Locations Brazil

    Minas Gerais means “general Mines” and the state of Minas Gerais was created by the Portuguese colonists in the year 1720 while on a quest for gold, gems and other treasures.
    To the north East lie the cities of Teófilo Otoni and Governador Valadares and these hold the reputation of being among the major industries of gemstone, as they are located very close to some of the richest gem mines of Brazil. There are large amounts of gems like diamonds, kunzite, aquamarine and emeralds, Chrysoberyl and tourmaline and also morganite.

    Emeralds from Madagascarrr

    The emerald mines of Kianjavato are situated in eastern Madagascar in the rain-forest about 60 km west of the coastal city of Mananjary. This mine sits a little north of a town called Irondro in the region of Vatovavy in the province of Fianaranatsoa. These Emerald deposits found at Kianjavato are about 3 billion years old and they are pegmatite rocks. The emeralds of Madagascar Emeralds are mined 350 km east of Toliara town at the Ianapera deposits in the Tuléar Province.

    There are a lot of other emerald deposits in the world and they are found in the African nations of South Africa, Ghana and Zimbabwe. There are others in Mozambique, Namibia, Nigeria and Malawi. Also India, Australia and Pakistan too boast good emerald deposits.

    Interactive Emearld Mines Map

    Know your Ruby

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    Know your Ruby

    by Erum

    The first clue to a true ruby’s identity will obviously be its color. The name ruby is derived from the Latin ‘ruber’ meaning red. Corundum in its pure form is virtually colorless; the color red is induced due to the presence of impurities in the form of trace elements chromium or iron within the crystal structure of the gemstone. Ruby may range in color from red to purplish- or brownish red and deep pinkish-red. The most desired color for ruby is a deep red tinged with blue known traditionally as ‘pigeon’s blood’ red though such terms are used increasingly rarely nowadays.

    Know your Ruby

    Ruby belongs to the gem family Corundum, the other member being Sapphire. Apart from emeralds, rubies are the most popular stones along with their cousin the sapphire. These three ruby, emerald and sapphire are also known as the ‘Big three’ and counted as precious stones (as opposed to semi-precious) no matter what their quality or caratage (weight).

    The first clue to a true ruby’s identity will obviously be its color. The name ruby is derived from the Latin ‘ruber’ meaning red. Corundum in its pure form is virtually colorless; the color red is induced due to the presence of impurities in the form of trace elements chromium or iron within the crystal structure of the gemstone. Ruby may range in color from red to purplish- or brownish red and deep pinkish-red. The most desired color for ruby is a deep red tinged with blue known traditionally as ‘pigeon’s blood’ red though such terms are used increasingly rarely nowadays.

    Second comes its heft- or weight proportionate to its size. Since corundum is one of the densest substances next to diamond (corundum’s specific gravity being close to 3.8 or sometimes even 4) it is relatively heavier to the feel than its common look-alikes. Experienced personnel can estimate the heft of a stone and gain a clue to the identity of a gemstone. However this works only if the stone is out of it’s setting of a big enough size. Smaller stones cannot be guessed at in this manner nor those that are set in jewelry.

    Next to red diamonds rubies are probably the most expensive gems in the world in sizes above three carats. Transparent gem quality ruby is almost always faceted with lower clarities being cut en cabochon or as beads or are carved sometimes.

    The most important clues to a stones identity are its characteristic inclusions. These are described in detail below for both natural and synthetic rubies.

    Occurrence

    Ruby is found in commercial quantities in many locations around the globe. Some of the most important ones are Myanmar (Burma), Vietnam, Pakistan, Afghanistan, Thailand, Cambodia, Sri Lanka and Tanzania.

    African stones make up a fairly large percentage of stones available on the market today. However Thailand still remains an important cutting and trading center for these stones despite being a relatively small producer of the stones.

    Ruby is also found at other localities such as Australia, Kenya, Namibia, Madagascar, India, Nepal, China, Russia and the USA.

    Natural Inclusions

    Most rubies will have the following inclusions regardless of the locality. Oriented needle-like inclusions known as ‘silk’ and slightly larger parallel inclusions- rutile needles. Healed fractures-these are liquid-filled residual cavities in a fingerprint-like healed fracture. Hexagonal growth zones are also a characteristic inclusion of corundum (both ruby and sapphire display this).

    The table given below explains the various inclusions found in ruby from different locations although not all stones may necessarily display them.

    LocalityComments and inclusions
    Myanmar (Burma) from the Mogok districtThe Mogok district is famous for fine-quality stones of good color. The stones commonly contain silk-short, fine rutile needle inclusions. Mineral inclusions are also observed such as corundum, calcite, dolomite, spinel, zircon, garnet, apatite, graphite, pargasite and yellowish sphene crystals.

    Inclusions may be well-formed or corroded, rounded crystals. The color is often in swirls (appearing like treacle) and intersecting twinning planes are often seen.

    Myanmar (Burma) from the Mong Hsu districtRubies from this district show central blue ‘cores’ when untreated and whitish clouds of rutile. The stones may be heat-treated to get rid of the blue color. The gems from this locality are generally of a lower quality than those from Mogok.
    PakistanRubies from Pakistan are generally similar to those from Myanmar. Whereas they have a good color, clarity is generally poor therefore they are cut as cabochons.
    AfghanistanThe produce from this country is usually small in size- rarely above 2 ct. They contain blue patches similar to Vietnamese stones as well as calcite, rutile and mica inclusions.
    Thailand (Siam)Rubies from Thailand are naturally darker or more brownish-red than Myanmar stones. Irregularly-shaped, fluid inclusions with dark crystals at their centers are usual as are intersecting twin-planes. When heat-treated the color can be every similar to Myanmar stones.
    Sri Lanka (Ceylon)These gems range in color from red to pink. They often contain long coarse rutile needles, biotite, pyrite and metamict zircon grains with tension haloes.
    TanzaniaRubies found at Mount Longido are often display a fine color and are found in bright green chrome zoisite rock. This combination of ruby and green zoisite stone is used as an ornamental stone. Ruby is cut as cabochons. Facetable material occurs in the Umba valley and shows twinning planes and apatite crystals.
    VietnamFine color, good clarity, similar to Myanmar rubies. Much material contains blue patches, which may be removed or modified by heating.

    Synthetic Corundum Inclusions

    Corundum (both ruby and sapphire) is synthesized in laboratories by various methods. Each of these methods produces stones that have characteristic inclusions, some of these are listed below.

    MethodInclusions
    Verneuil flame-fusionCurved growth lines, gas-bubbles, induced fractures and healed fractures.
    Czochralski pulledThese stones are relatively clean but small gas bubbles may be seen.
    Floating zone Seiko and NovosibirskGas bubbles and irregular color swirls.
    Flux-melt:

    Chatham, Kashan Ramaura, Knischka Novosibirsk, Douros

    		Flux-filled cavities and healed fractures; tiny flux particles arranged in streamer- or comet-like patterns; platinum platelets; angular growth zoning similar to zoning observed in natural stones.
    Flux-melt:

    Lechleitner overgrowth

    		Seed crystals, generally with trapped flux on the boundary but rarely found.
    HydrothermalWavy growth structure, feathers.

    Treatment

    Most commercial qualities of ruby and sapphire both are heat-treated to improve color. Even synthetic ruby (synthesized by the Verneuil method) is heat-treated to diffuse the striations.

    Removing brown tones from Thai rubies and blue cores and patches from Vietnam and Some ruby may be surface diffusion treated to add color to poor and colorless material. Rubies may be treated with red oil which enters fractures on improves color and clarity. Fractures, cavities and fissures in ruby may be filled with high lead content glass (more on this topic in the following pages).

    Detection of treatment

    Color zoning lines are commonly poorly defined in heat-treated stones. Other characteristics include features like cross-hatched color zoning and sharply defined cloudy layers or patches. These appear whitish due to concentrations of sub-microscopic inclusions.

    Star ruby

    Natural untreated star stones with good color and sharp stars are rare. Generally a six-rayed star is seen, rarely a 12-rayed one. Natural star stones are usually distinguished from synthetics by their coarser rutile needles.

    Tanzanite Pictures

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    Tanzanite Pictures

    by Mark

    Tanzanite Pictures.

    The stone Tanzanite, named after its country of origin Tanzania, popular for its intense deep violet to blue color. Tanzanite is actually the commercial name given to the mineral Zoisite. This beautiful gem is increasingly being used in fine jewelry across the globe instead of the much-used and hugely popular blue sapphire. Its chemical composition is hydrous calcium Aluminium silicate. Zoisite occurs in many colors such as pink, brown, yellow, green, blue and a peculiar color described as ‘khaki’. Only the deep violet to blue colored variety is referred to and marketed as Tanzanite. image courtesy: http://www.tanzaniteone.com

    Raw tanzanite stoneDeep blue, untreated, uncut, raw tanzanite stone.

    Loose TanzanitesCut, polished, loose Tanzanite stones.

    Uncut TanzanitesUncut, untreated Tanzanite stone.

    Cleaning Rough TanzanitesCleaning rough Tanzanite stones.

    Largest TanzaniteJust mined largest Tanzanite stone on the hands of a worker.

    Tanzanite under loupeTanzanite stone being cut, polished and sorted.

    Tanzanite RingsTanzanite Rings.

    Tanzanite NecklaceTanzanite Necklace.

    Tanzanite MineTanzanite Mine in Tanzania.

    Tanzanite Processing PlantTanzanite processing plant in Tanzania.

    Tanzanite RingActress Terri Hatcher wearing a Tanzanite Ring.

    Largest Tanzanite RingMine workers showing largest Tanzanite Stone found in one of the Tanzania’s Mine.

    Tanzanite Ring‘Roc-A-Fella Records’ co-founder Damon Dash wearing a Tanzanite Ring.

    Largest Tanzanite stoneA mine worker, showing largest Tanzanite stone.

    Tanzanite Platinum RingPlatinum ring with a Deep blue Tanzanite stone.

    Big Tanzanite StonesTanzanite Stones, cut and polished.

    High Value Diamonds 2010

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    High Value Diamonds 2010

    by Mark

    Million dollar worth diamond jewelry sold by Sotheby auction house during the period Jan 2010, to Dec 2010.

    Pink Diamond RingBrilliant cut, 6.43 carats vivid pink diamond in center, and pear shaped diamonds on each side weighing 1.6 carats in total. Mounted on platinum and 18 karat white gold ring. Auctioned and sold for 7.7 million USD on 6th october.

    Diamond Riviere NecklaceDiamond Riviere Necklace: All the diamonds are D colour, Flawless clarity, with Excellent Cut, the 6.55 carat diamond has been determined to be a Type IIa diamond. Type IIa diamonds are chemically pure and with exceptional optical transparency. Sold for 6.7 million USD, on 7th April 2010.

    De Beers Millennium Blue DiamondDe Beers Millennium blue diamond and ring, sold for 6.4 Million USD on April 7th 2010. The 5.16 carat diamond is natural, blue in color, internally flawless clarity and inscribed with “De Beers Millennium Jewel 11”.

    pink diamondIntense pink in color, round cornered rectangular step cut diamond weighing 24.78 carats, set between shield shaped diamond shoulders, in platinum. Sold for 47 Million USD, on 16th Nov 2010.

    Yellow diamond EarringYellow diamond earrings, each diamond weighing 21.17 and 20.77 carats respectively, surmounted by an oval diamond each weighing 2.02 carats, with brilliant cut diamond frame set, mounted in platinum. Sold for 4.9 Million USD on 6th Oct, 2010.

    Brilliant cut diamondsTwo brilliant cut diamonds each weighing 10.88 carats, sold for 4.8 Million USD, on Oct 06, 2010.

    Diamond PendantD color, flawless, 33.31 carat, Type IIa Diamond Pendant. Sold for 4.5 Million USD, on 7th April 2010..

    Purplish pink diamond ringCentering on an emerald cut purplish pink diamond weighing 4.10 carats, to a pavé set brilliant cut diamond shank, mounted in 18 karat white gold. Sold for 2.6 Million USD, on 6th Oct 2010. .

    Diamond pendent earringsDiamond Pendent Earrings, with 10.4, and 10.28 carat, D color flawless diamonds, sold for 2.4 Million USD on 7th April 2010..

    Diamond Pendant NecklaceEmerald green colour jadeite, surrounded by princess and brilliant cut diamonds, surmounted by a pendant loop set with baguette diamonds, accompanied by a necklace of Art-Deco design set with princess and brilliant cut diamonds. Sold for 1.1 Million USD on 6th Oct 2010..

    Ruby and Diamond EarringsRuby and diamond pendent earrings, each set with emerald green jadeite cabochon, surmounted by a pear shaped diamond and ruby, mounted in 18 karat white gold. Sold for 1.02 Million USD, on Oct 6th 2010..

    Chain Making

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    Chain Making

    by Ms Nandita Ray

    As with all jewelry, chain making is not a simple process. It too involves a number of stages and it’s a long way from the raw material to the final finished product. Invention of the wire helped the goldsmiths to craft chains from gold and its alloys. Neolithic men found gold very pliant, soft and supple and they hammered and pounded it to take any form and shape and also stretch its length. Perhaps this was the birth of chain and chain making. Till the 18th century chain was handcrafted, laborious and time consuming. It still is. By twisting and turning the wire different shapes are formed and linking one link with the other forms the most basic chain.

    Rousseau’s famous statement, “man is born free but everywhere he is in chains” is apt today, literally speaking! Chains around necks, around wrists, around waists on boots dangling from hip pockets, it has inundated the world of fashion. From bikers, to muscleman to fashion models sport chains, queen size to princess length, flashing and clanging all over. Chains form the core of jewelry dressing adding flavor and spice to the attire worn.

    History of Chain Making

    As with all jewelry, chain making is not a simple process. It too involves a number of stages and it’s a long way from the raw material to the final finished product. Invention of the wire helped the goldsmiths to craft chains from gold and its alloys. Neolithic men found gold very pliant, soft and supple and they hammered and pounded it to take any form and shape and also stretch its length. Perhaps this was the birth of chain and chain making. Till the 18th century chain was handcrafted, laborious and time consuming. It still is. By twisting and turning the wire different shapes are formed and linking one link with the other forms the most basic chain. Romans and Persians were adept at chain making. They used chains on bridles of horses, on vests for protection in war, on doors, in anchors and jewelry; chain making was a well practiced art. The wires were made into loops and connected to each other to form chains which were used to especially on armor. The loops were sown on vests worn by soldiers. Chains constructed in this fashion with interlocking links are called chain maille /mail or chain armor. This was the common term used in the medieval times to indicate flat chains.

    Before machines took over, goldsmiths used to hand make most chains.
    They would hammer the metal, gold or silver into flat strips. Then they would draw or pull these strips of metal through a number of dies to form wires. The wire which was reduced to the diameter or thickness required. The wire was then wound around a mandrel forming loops. Mandrel is used to shape metal into a desired size or shape by using a tiny hammer. Then it was cut through the looped wire. Then they would interlock the loops; bend each link to close it.
    Then use heat to solder each joint. And this process was continued till the desired length is completed.

    Such chains and many even today, are handcrafted. Hand fabrication is indispensable in any form of jewelry making. Delicate touches, mounting difficult settings or attaching beads need skilled fingers. Therefore hand crafting cannot be totally discontinued. However demand requires mass production. Mechanization was the obvious answer and this led Jacques de Vaucanson, a French man in 1750, to invent a machine which made U shaped wire for mesh chain. This progressed into a chain making machine in 1782. Pedaling generated power and this machine was highly sought by goldsmiths and craftsmen. By the 1800’s different types of chain making machines were designed, all based on this basic model. In 1870, this method of chain making caught the eyes of Europeans and Americans. In 1893 in Chicago World Exposition, Americans for the first time exhibited their model of chain making machine which was decidedly better. It was based on better technology, possessed speed and was sophisticated. During the sixties Italians became and still remain masters of chain making and chain making machines.

    Chain making machines

    There are two main types of chain making machines. The cable machine and the curb chain making machine.

    Cable machine Process

    The first step is to feed/introduce wire into a set of straightening rollers.  It then passes into a guide and a gripper section.This chamber guides it into a chamber called ‘stop’. In this section the wire length is measured and the size of the link established. This is the first link of the chain. The next pierce of wire is measured and is passed through this first link to form a part of the chain. In this way links are measured and made and interlocked.  A cutter cuts the wire from the feed stock a forming tooth slides out and pushes on the wire to shape it into a U. After the U is formed, a set of jaw like clamps holds the wire in place and closes the link to complete the shape. The link is given a complete 90 degrees turnabout and the next link making process starts.

    Curb Making Machine

    At first the wire is introduced into a loop like tool. Ii is twisted and coiled into a spiral. As the loop revolves the spiral wire is put through the previous loop.
    The loop is closed and a set of jaw like scissors snap and cuts off the spiral. This link is rotated and the next spiral is made and this process continues till the desired length is acquired.

    Snake Chain Making Machine

    This machine makes chains from flat stock.

    Ball Chain Making Machine

    This machine is capable of making ball chains from both wire and flat stock.

    Firago Chain Machine

    This machine is able to make two sizes of link since it has two heads.

    Platinum Chain making

    Platinum chain making was not easy since it is a hard metal which is not easy to work with. For many years only pliant metals like gold, silver, copper were made into chains. To full fill the need for white metal was filled with white gold, rhodium plating or silver. During the nineties, the demand for high end products like platinum was greatly desired and hence manufacturers started finding ways to make platinum chains. Some started plating the wire with copper to make it greasy and slippery as it passed through the machine. This was done so as not to hurt the tools. After this the copper was laboriously stripped off the wire. It was time consuming and not very profitable. So some manufacturers started chrome plating their tooling system. Today, improved grades of carbide has eased the problems not cured it completely. Soldering the links is another problem. Heat damages the color and matching the color is difficult. It also gets tarnished. A number of methods were used to resolve the problem. The coming of the laser welding machine is a boon. It is a clean weld as it is suited for the thermal grade of the platinum.
    Some chains are hand made. Glass beads, plastic and resin beads are strung by hand. Pearls are also (mostly) hand strung. Bead made from organic material like wood, shell, bones, clay even fake ivory are also hand fabricated. Some chains made from gold are also hand fabricated.

    Problems encountered

    Though machines do the elementary work the finished product has to be hand done.The finished product is the result of skilled fingers and toiling hands as they decorate, set and polish the chain to its final finished stage. Heat and soldering required for completing the final product.

    Some chain designs like herring bone require a flattened profile and this has to be done by rolling the chain on a rolling mill.

    Secondary operations are needed to make the chain loose and flexible in order to sit properly around the neck.

    Decorations like diamond cut are added by using a special machine.

    Tools will wear and tear.

    Machines are expensive to maintain in tip top condition.

    Some parts might not be easily available, especially if it’s of an older machine.

    It turns out to be expensive unless used for mass production.

    Benefits of Chain making Machines

    Chains can be massed produced. Variety of designs can be made.Complex chains can be made from stamped components which are bent and then interlocked.

    It allows the making of thin and light hollow chains.

    Chains can be made in all karats of gold.

    It saves time as a number of chains can be made quickly and accurately.

    It is labor and cost effective.

    In up to date modern machines, which are very expensive, links are automatically welded by laser or micro plasma welding torch.

    Wires can be round, oval or square and can be used in machines with ease.

    Length of chains

    Chains can be made to order in the length one desires. However there are two acceptable lengths of chains, the Princess length which is 18″ long and the Rope length which is 45″ or 120″ long. A number of contemporary lengths are available; 15″, 20″, 25″ etc. Chains are also sold by foot or by spool. This system is useful for mass production.

    Types of chains

    Variety of designs run riot in the fashion world of chains. Broad, thin, light, heavy, ornamental, simple, intricate, Princess or Rope, flat or cylindrical, lots of styles and motifs abound. Here are some contemporary styles:Box chain: – a chain with box like wide squares.
    Byzantine chain: –a type of weave which is an old world style and is a chain with round links which create an intricate design that forms a tube. This design is also called birdcage design, idiot box and fool’s dilemma.
    Cable chain: – a chain with round links all of the same size.
    Curb chain: – a chain with oval links that are twisted to lie flat.
    Figaro chain: – a pretty popular design that has two or three small round links with and long oval link. This is a famous Italian design.
    Herringbone chain: – a chain with resembles fish bones being thin, small and slanting links that lie flat. Also resembles a centipede.
    Fob chain: – a thick chain with an ornamental pendant or seal or charm attached to it.
    Mesh: – thin, delicate, gauzy looking mesh woven from very fine wire, resembling a fabric, like chain.
    Omega: – a chain that lies flat and is solid and heavy and the surface made up of thick links.
    Multilayered chain: – a number of thin delicate, soft and pliant chains all strung from two clasps form a thick layered look.

    These are some of the common styles of chains available and in no way does this write up sum up the gamut of designs available internationally.

    Use chains as adornment. Dress up your purse with a dangling bead chain or have a pearl or silver chain protecting your sunglasses or adding color to your attire. Key chain, wallet chain, jacket chain, boot chain, chain swinging from ear lobes, finger rings with chains, bracelets with chains. Chains can be used easily. Be innovative. Chain up or shackle up. Start a chain reaction.

    Choker Necklace

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    Choker Necklace

    by Choker Necklace

    This marvelous jewelry encircles the throat like a collar instead of draping down to the collarbone or chest like other necklace. As the name choker necklace entails that in case it is somewhat tight, it might choke the wearer. It is a wonderful designer ornament that enhances the entire appearance of the lady. This article shall acquaint the reader with the best possible information about this fascinating jewelry piece such as different choker variants, suitable occasion to wear it and much more.

    Choker necklace are neck-hugging necklaces. In other words it should fit very close to the neck. In ancient times, both male and female used to wear this attractive neck jewelry and the craze for it still continues in today’s fashionable world.

    This marvelous jewelry encircles the throat like a collar instead of draping down to the collarbone or chest like other necklace. As the name choker necklace entails that in case it is somewhat tight, it might choke the wearer. It is a wonderful designer ornament that enhances the entire appearance of the lady. This article shall acquaint the reader with the best possible information about this fascinating jewelry piece such as different choker variants, suitable occasion to wear it and much more.

    Choker necklace is very short in length, mostly fourteen to sixteen inches. These have additional loops at one end of the necklace while clasp at the other end for the length adjustment. Some have sleek neck while a few have heavy neck therefore these supplementary loops are helpful for adjusting the length of the necklace in accordance with the neck. Choker necklace should always be very near to the neck then only it beautifies the neck of the wearer.

    There are different varieties of choker necklace available in the market. Each one has it own uniqueness. All diverse choker designs look superb on a long neck. However, if the neck is short or heavy then narrow chokers are a better option. Also, simple chains with a pendant give an admirable gaze to the wearer. Even delicate choker made by stones or beads randomly strung in the wire/thread are ideal for semi-formal occasions. Young girls going to college adore choker with fancy pendent in invisible or delicate wire.

    Pearl Chokers

    As the name specifies, these are pearl chokers with single or multiple strands of pearls to hold close to the neck. Natural, cultured or faux (imitation) pearls could be selected in the choker depending on the liking and pocket. The price of natural pearls is as high as the sky, then are cultured pearls and finally faux pearls are the most affordable choice. The look of the choker made up of these three different pearls are all same from a far distance but from a close look the difference in the quality shall be visible to the experienced eyes.

    Crystal Chokers

    These are glittering chokers. Crystal is a form of glass with a high degree of transparency that usually consists of a high proportion of lead oxide. It is traditionally hand-blown and is made of almost pure silica. When it comes to crystals the first word that struck is ‘Swarovski’. These are the high quality crystals possessing shimmering beauty. Mostly, all these chokers are made using sterling silver with rhodium polish. The sparkle of these crystals is too good to win the hearts at the very first glance. This branded crystal alone or else pooled with semi-precious gems make up the innumerable classy designs. The gemstone combos are truly appealing, as gems like carnelian, turquoise and tourmaline etc add a soft touch of colour to these amazing colourless stones making the overall look of choker necklace mesmerizing.

    Colourless crystals other than Swarovski are also commonly used and paired with semi-precious gemstones. Crystal chokers without pendant are much more alluring as the complete round chokers hugging the neck catches attention of the people around towards its wearer. Pendent could be selected if much loved but it diverges the beauty of plain crystal choker.

    Rhinestone Chokers

    Rhinestones are referred as imitation diamonds. These stones when strung in a strand of 14-16 inches are known as rhinestone choker. This choker adds sparkle and glitter to the overall appearance of the wearer. In few designs there are five or more strands twisted to make one chain that encircles the neck. This alone is sufficient to beautify the neck. However, it could be also worn with the pendent along with matching earrings. Pendent looks good with simple two to four-strand rhinestone choker.

    These chokers dazzle magnificently when lights rays falls on small stones mounted in the necklace. It is ideal for bridal wear. The designs in this choker assortment vary from geometrical, floral, butterfly and many more abstract designs. Mostly the designs are in the center of the choker and at both ends there are straight lines in a row one after the other, may be 8-10 in number. It is fashioned using crystals like large circular crystals surrounded by rhinestone chains in a boxed-in design looks very contemporary and beautiful. In place of circular crystals other shapes such as square, pear or heart shape etc could also be selected. All chokers are made either using sterling silver or yellow/white gold.

    Leather Chokers

    Chokers that are made up leather straps that stays just above the collarbone, accenting the neckline are referred as leather chokers. These are available in colour shades of leather such as shades of black, red and brown etc. It is mostly worn along with pendent in the center. Gemstones big in size are the most apt choice as a pendent for this choker variant. Larger the size of stone more voguish look is attained. These chokers must be worn with the informal attire as it gives aggressive yet the funky and trendy look to the wearer.

    Silver Chokers

    Silver chokers are must to have jewelry in the jewelry box of each and every female. Further, sterling silver with rhodium plated looks incredible. Infact, it gives the fleeting look of the platinum. At first one glance only veteran eyes could make out the difference between silver and platinum choker.

    The beauty of these white coloured chokers is further enhanced with the crystal, genuine diamond or imitation colourless stone pendent paired up with coloured gemstone. With a sleek choker, delicate pendent should be selected and vice versa. Plain silver choker with a simple pendent is the best choice for interviews and formal office attire. It also goes well with casual wear. For special occasions like prom parties more contemporary designs are suitable that are neither too sleek nor too heavy. It should more stylish and modish while for weddings heavy pendent with lots of dazzling stones in a broad choker looks enthralling.

    Memory Wire Chokers

    Memory wire is a beading wire that stays in round shape close to the neck. All types of beads are strung in wire and given a round shape that could be easily worn on the neck. The wires are rigid in nature therefore, it stays in one shape as given by the jewelry maker. It may or may not have the clasp at the back. Chokers without clasp and strings to droop could be bend open to wrap around the neck. These chokers have the ends of the wire secured as it they overlap each other at the back.

    This unbending choker could be worn more than one at the same time for example, in case of evening parties where the lady wishes the ravishing look then she can wear 4-5 single memory wire choker at the same time. The college going young lady can wear one single choker wire for the casual attire. Mostly this choker goes well without a pendent. Umpteen designs are possible with different coloured beads that are strung in wire. These are self-reliant to define the look of the lady wearing chokers.

    Gothic Chokers

    These chokers are made using cloth straps with the crystal or gemstone bead as pendent in the center. The width of cloth should be between 2 inches to 5 inches. Velvet, chiffon, satin or organza cloth band makes amazing chokers. Gothic choker ought to have pendent else it would look very bland and unappealing.

    All these are different varieties of chokers are created by jewelry designers since many years. Anyone of this could be selected depending upon the neck of the wearer. Each one has its own exclusive feature that would certainly be right for some or the other person. These days’ designers create customized chokers for their clients making a combination of 2-3 different choker varieties into one. For example – rhinestone name alphabets are set in a gothic choker or pearl, rhinestone and crystal strands are put up together in one single large choker and so on.
    Trend of choker necklace originated way back during French Revolution. Ladies used to wear red ribbons around their neck. In prehistoric times females used to wear this neck ornament to grab attention towards their slender and eye-catching neck. Even today, where glamour and fashion is part of everybody’s life, chokers play a vital role in defining the persona of the wearer. At present, there are many varieties to choose, from pearls to gemstones or memory wire to leather choker and so on. These remarkable necklaces are surely the preeminent mode to make one’s own powerful style statement. Do give it a thought!!

    Gold Metal Beads

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    Gold Metal Beads

    by Binasaji

    Glittering bright, gold beads are for those who are enticed by the lure of the yellow metal and can afford it – for gold is the most expensive metal (other than Platinum). Gold beads look great whether they are teamed with precious gems or just by themselves. The history and myths related to gold are myriad and gold beaded jewellery serves dual purposes of ornamentation and as a secure investment for the future.

    Beaded gold jewelry can be heavy or light and gold beads weigh quite a bit especially if they are solid. If you do not prefer traditional designs in gold beaded jewelry, plenty of designers offer economical, lightweight, contemporary patterns in gold beaded jewelry designs for office wear or at events where heavy beaded gold ornaments can look ostentatious.

    Fast Facts

    Just like silver, gold too is a soft metal – a slight application of force and pure gold bends or a light knock can dent it. This property of gold has advantages and disadvantages. The advantage is that gold can be drawn into wires which thinner than sewing thread and gauzy, diaphanous sheets. Even after it is drawn into such flimsy wires or sheets, it is possible to work with the metal. Skilful artists who craft the delicate filigreed gold beads use this property of gold to make eye-catching patterns.

    Gold beaded jewellery is strung together with either metal wires or chains, thick or thin cords or other materials like foxtail. The stringing material used depends on the size of the hole. A larger hole with require a stronger and thicker cord to balance the bead and a thinner holed gold bead can be balanced with a thin strong wire. Gold is extremely malleable and is usually mixed with other metals to give it strength and durability. Gold beaded jewellery will never tarnish or blacken unlike silver nor will it ever depreciate in value. In fact, good quality gold beaded ornaments will always appreciate in value as the price of gold is always headed north!

    Every country has its own traditional gold beaded jewellery and the designs of the beaded jewellery vary from region to region. For example a Moslem country will not have designs or images depicting living creatures like animals etc. whereas a Bali gold bead will predominantly have nature symbols. In India , gold beaded jewellery is compulsory for Hindu marriages. Gold, black and sometimes red beads are combined to create the Mangalsutra (symbol of a Hindu married woman).

    Purity of Gold

    Gold used in jewellery is never pure – other metals are added to it before making ornaments. The amount of metal mixed into pure gold reduces its purity and “Karat” measures the resultant purity of the gold. An easy method to understand the concept of Karats (K) is to divide gold in 24 parts – pure or fine gold is classified as 24 Karats which signifies 100% purity. Likewise 18 Karat gold has 18 parts of fine gold and 6% of other metals giving it a purity of approximately 75%. Other popular gold bead karatage is 14 K and 22 K.The current trend to identify purity, guaranteed by the manufacturer is Hallmarked Gold. Gold beaded jewellery carrying this mark have the guarantee of purity by either the World Gold Council or other reputed international manufacturers.

    Most gold beaded jewelry, if bought from well-know stores will be Hallmarked with the Karats ( either 18K or 22K etc.) mentioned on the piece.

    Popular Gold Bead Types

    A quick search on the internet throws up millions of sites offering gold beaded jewelry and gold beads for creating jewelry at home – authentic vintage gold beaded jewelry, modern lightweight designs, ethnic heavy wedding ornaments, Bali Gold beads, gold-filled beads, gold-covered beads, gold-vermeil beads etc. Different companies have interesting names for their gold beads and research is recommended for those who would like to buy their gold beaded jewelry online.

    Hollow gold beads are heavier than similar beads made of other precious metals. Some hollow gold beads are sometimes filled with lacquer or other materials to make them more durable. If the piece that has captivated you, uses hollow beads, ensure they are not 22K or 24K – since 22K gold is not as hard as either 14K or 18K gold beads and hollow gold beads, in particular need to have a higher mix of other metals to increase the durability and strength of the bead, so it does not become de-shaped. Hollow beads are not suitable for Bangles, rings and many stores do not carry hollow beaded jewelry for these jewelry items.

    Gold – filled or Rolled Gold beads are usually 14 karat gold beads which have been heated and pressure bonded to a base-metal centre (such as nickel) and the gold layer is a thick coating of 14k gold which will not come off as time passes. The advantage is that gold filled beads are stronger and look good even after years of use. The layer of gold is much thicker than electroplating and hence gold-filled beads are preferred to plated or even gold vermeil. Recently, gold filled beads carry a marking – for example a 12K/20 marking signifies 5% or one twentieth of the entire weight of the bead is in 12K gold.

    Gold Vermeil is a technique of applying a thin coating of gold (usually 14K) but thicker than electroplated gold coating on a sterling silver bead. These are less expensive tthan pure gold beads and require care while using since the vermeil plating can come off, if treated harshly.

    Another type of gold bead is the Cloisonné bead. Gold wires are soldered together to form a bead and the centre is filled with enamel and polished. Cheaper Cloisonné beads using wires of metals like silver, copper, nickel are also popular.

    Precious metal clay is extremely pliable and some handmade jewellery artists utilize this clay to make delicate gold beaded jewellery with or without precious stones embedded into it. 22K gold dust or small particles gold are mixed with water and binders. After the required pattern has been formed, the clay is fired and only the gold bead remains – molded into the set design. This is a relatively new technique but the purity of gold is higher and very interesting beaded jewellery pieces can be created with precious metal clay.

    Colors of Gold

    Gold has had a yellow color for centuries, but enterprising manufacturers have invented gold beaded jewellery in several other colors by increasing the quantity of other metals added to gold – to bring out the hues of the added metal. Colored gold requires more metal addition and the gold beaded jewellery and the purity is either 18K or lower.Colored gold beaded jewellery (rose gold, green gold, and white gold) have different metals mixed into gold to give them the required hue. Extra Copper makes gold rose colored while Zinc adds a greenish tinge and a higher percentage of Nickel makes gold white.

    White polish called Rhodium polish is often applied on parts of the gold bead making the bead glint. Rhodium polish brings out the yellow color beautifully by highlighting the contrast of yellow and white. From afar, a Rhodium polished piece can pass of as diamonds in the gold beads!

    Gold beaded jewellery with a dash of enamel coating in colors ranging from red, blue to green can add color to the yellow of the metal. Multi-colored enamel coated gold jewellery can be teamed with several outfits – the coating doesn’t last for more than a couple of years. This is a great way to add color to pieces which do not incorporate any gemstones.

    A noble metal considered to be as immortal as the gods – gold jewellery occupies the top spot in every woman’s collection. If the design you own is old and uninspiring, get a brand new creation made of the same gold by having it melted and crafted it into another ornament.

    Circular Barbells

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    Circular Barbells

    by RITIKA CHANGRANI

    Circular barbells are also known as horseshoe barbells. However, some horseshoe barbells are U-shaped instead of the usual circle. This horseshoe shaped design was all the rage in the early 1990s but has now faded out.

    What is the connection between weightlifting and body piercing? Barbells of course! Circular barbells are a very popular type of body jewelry mostly seen in eyebrow, naval, nose and tongue piercing. They are so called, as they resemble the barbells used by weightlifters.A barbell is a trendy piece of jewelry worn in body piercing. Barbells can either be straight or curved. They usually have small balls or beads at each end to keep the jewelry in place. The beads can usually be unscrewed from one or both ends for ease of wearing and removal. Sometimes, one bead is fixed, either it is welded or by epoxy. In such cases, only the other bead can be used to fix or remove the piece of jewelry. The barbell threads are usually right handed though left handed ones are also available. The gauge of barbell jewelry ranges from large (0 ga) to small (20 ga)

    The barbells that are curved into a circular shape are called circular barbells. It is in the form of an incomplete circle (typically three quarters of a circle) fitted with balls at either end with a small gap between them.

    Circular barbells are also known as horseshoe barbells. However, some horseshoe barbells are U-shaped instead of the usual circle. This horseshoe shaped design was all the rage in the early 1990s but has now faded out.

    A circular barbell is most apt for piercing where captive bead rings can be worn. Circular barbells are usually heavier than captive bead rings especially because of the balls, and so it may not be a good idea to use it for all types of new piercing.

    Circular barbells are most commonly found in eyebrow, nose (especially septum), nipple, naval, ear lobe, ear cartilage, cheek, tongue and genital piercing. There are different types of circular barbells, each with different barbell diameters to suit the various types of piercing.

    Circular barbells for the Nose

    There are quite a few options available for nose piercing. You can have a circular barbell between the nostrils, a simple stud or a barbell at the bridge.

    For new piercing, it’s best not to experiment with the funky bone or horn tusks. You need a good septum retainer for nasal septum piercing. A circular barbell works very well at this stage. It is a comfortable, discreet and simple way to start. You must select a circular barbell in a diameter that flatters your facial features. The proportional rings, especially those with a 1/2″ or 7/16″ diameters are very popular. However, what is more important is the look you want and your nose. Here you will have a lot of variety in ball sizes. Select one carefully as this can dramatically change the look of your face.

    For the Eyebrow

    Eyebrow piercing was introduced by the punk generation of the 1970s. It is usually done vertically. Circular barbells are very popular to be worn in eyebrow piercing especially at the outer end of the brow.

    For the Lip / Labret

    Introduced by early African tribes, lip/labret piercing have become a style statement today with teens and adults alike. This type of piercing is also known as Madonna and Monroe named after the divas who flaunted them. Circular barbells are apt for such piercing. They add a whole new dimension to the face. It’s simple, highly appealing with hardly any chances of infection, and hence quite safe.

    For the Ear

    Circular barbells are often worn in ear lobe as well as ear cartilage piercing. It is so popular that people don’t stop at one. A large number of people opt for 3 – 4 piercing in each ear and wear circular barbells of varying diameters.

    For the Nipple

    Nipple piercing in males can be dated back to the era of the Roman centurions. In the 14th century, Queen Isabella introduced a style of dressing that exposed the nipple. It was then that women started adorning their nipple with rings and barbells.

    For nipple piercing, circular barbells are the perfect type of jewelry. The diameter obviously differs for men and women. For men, 14 gauges of larger barbells are used and 12 gauge or larger is the preferred size for women.

    Types of Circular Barbells

    One is spoiled for choice when it comes to selecting circular barbells. The diameter of course depends on a number of factors like type of piercing, position etc. There is a huge variety of designs and materials that circular barbells are available in. Some of the more common ones are:

    – 14K Gold
    – 18K Gold
    – Sterling Silver
    – Surgical Stainless Steel
    – Acrylic
    – Niobium
    – Titanium

    Barbell Ends

    The most common circular barbell ends are round balls. They may be of gold, stainless steel, acrylic or titanium. However, this is not where it ends. Today you have a large selection of barbell ends to choose from. Gemstones and jewels are set in circular barbell ends of gold and silver. Spikes, dice, skulls and a host of other complex shapes are also available as barbell ends. It adds a whole new look to your circular barbell.

    For new piercing, it is advisable to opt for regular balls as barbells ends since the other shapes are often heavier and hence uncomfortable.

    Removal of Circular Barbells

    In a circular barbell, at least one end unscrews. It should be removed with great care and caution. Take gauze and seize one end of the barbell. The gauze will strengthen your grip. Using your other hand, gently unscrew the ball at the other end. To help the jewelry slide easily from the skin, you can lubricate the metal post.

    Circular barbells are the preferred jewelry option for most types of piercing as they are easy to fit and look extremely stylish. With the huge variety of designs available, you can choose one that suits your own style and flaunt it to your heart’s content!