Black Pearl Buying guide - JewelInfo4uBy:Sheweta Dhanuka Summary: These are procured only from the land of Tahiti. Pinctada Margaritifera or black-lipped oysters are grown in the waters of French Polynesia and the Cook Islands. The pearls are produced in the womb of these oysters.
Black Pearls are exceptional variety of pearls that every woman having known
its grandeur would yearn for the jewelry holding these pearls. Frenchman,
Jean-Marie Dormand was the father of cultured black pearl farming. The first
harvesting of black pearl was done in the year 1965. It was exported
foremost in 1972 and since then it has seen the robust growth.
To make the purchase of genuine pearls at the correct price is a tough
task. While buying it if the buyers have no information then it is suicidal
and even little knowledge might turn to be treacherous. In such
circumstances buyers should put off the plan of purchase for a moment and
search out the complete know-how about it then after ensue for the
acquisition. This content aims to proffer the buyers with the preeminent
reliable and comprehensive information about these elite pearls.
Black Pearls are also called South Sea Black pearls. These are procured
only from the land of Tahiti. Pinctada Margaritifera or black-lipped oysters
are grown in the waters of French Polynesia and the Cook Islands. The pearls
are produced in the womb of these oysters. With the attempt to facilitate
the purchase of true black pearls government of Tahiti had laid down few
regulations. These rules have to be followed by the sellers as the legal
rules and by the buyers as the buying guide. It begins with size, nacre
thickness, luster, surface quality, natural colour and shape. Some more
characteristics are discussed to provide additional information about this
extremely precious gift.
Size : The size of pearls is articulated in terms of the diameter
and the unit used is millimeters (mm). It is measured in two ways. First is
by the shortest diameter and secondly it is measured along the two diameters
-the longest and the one after it. Round and semi round shapes are measured
by the first while the rest three are measured in second way. The accepted
size of black pearls gauge between 9-12 millimeters. The pearls measuring
between 12-14 millimeters are associated as cream of the crop. Size between
14-16 mm is rare in nature hence are most precious and very expensive. More
than 16mm is even more rare. Size more than 18mm is beyond the imagination
and would fetch the price as high as sky. Buyers must ask for the micrometer
and check the size of the pearl themselves in an attempt to evade all future
bombshells.
Nacre Thickness : This characteristic determines the life and
luster quality of the pearl. Nacre is the successive layers deposited on the
nucleus surface of the pearl. It can be thick or thin. Thick nacre is more
than or equal to 80%, less than this percentage is referred as thin nacre.
Tahitian government allows the pearls with the thick nacre to be exported
while the rest with thin nacre are rejected. Thick nacre enhances the look
of the pearl as the effect body colour along with overtones and luster is
doubled.
Luster : In layman's words luster refers to the shine and gleam
while technically it is the quality of the light reflections from the
pearl's surface. When light falls on the surface of the pearl it is
reflected back in different directions from the internal layers of the
nacre. Generally Tahitian pearls posses high luster yet it could be ripped
into four that is very high, high, medium and soft. Very high luster means
light reflections are brilliant while high luster refers to bright
reflections. Medium is moderate reflections and weak reflection is soft
luster. Dull luster is seen in the pearls with thin nacre therefore as
pearls with thin nacre are rejected so is the pearl with dull luster. This
characteristic along with the surface quality plays vital role at the time
of pricing.
Surface Quality : Surface quality refers to the outer appearance
of the pearl. As pearls are produced by the natural process it tends to have
some or the other imperfection. Gemstones consist of flaws where as pearls
have blemishes on it's surface. These blemishes are easily visible by the
naked eyes and as such no specific instrument is needed. The surface quality
is split into four. These are Clean-Very Lightly Blemished, Lightly
Blemished, Moderately Blemished and Heavily Blemished. These ratings are
done one the basis of the smoothness and amount of blemishes on the surface.
Tahiti government had made the rule that the pearls very poor in surface
quality (having blemishes more than the quality D) could not be exported and
had to be sold within the boundaries of the country itself.
Quality A : This type is clean to very slightly blemished with
very high luster. Slight blemishes imply less than 10% of the surface that
even are concealed later on while making the drill hole. The surface is
completely smooth. This type is quite rare in nature. Everyone seeks this
clean surface quality but for buying it one needs bulging pocket.
Quality B : It is lightly blemished with high luster. Light
blemishes refer to imperfections less than one third or 33% of the surface.
Quality C : This type is moderately blemished with medium luster.
It is certainly more than one third but less than two third of the surface
that is less than 66%.
Quality D : It is heavily blemished with soft luster. In this type
the blemishes are fully concentrated and are more than in the two third of
the surface that is more than 66%.
Natural Colour : Pearls from Tahitian land could enlist varied
colours from the edge of the black lipped oyster that produces it. The
pearls seize black, blue, green, brown and gray body colours. Most of the
pearls hold attractive overtones like lunar blue, silver, gold, gray-pink,
peacock green, rainbow and reddish purple. Pearls are formed in diverse
permutations and combinations of body colour and overtones. Overtones are
the additional colours that increase the value in the economic terms. Pearls
without any overtone are priced very less as compared to those having
overtones. Further, regular deep black and gray with overtones of peacock
green and rainbow are very costly.
Colours are created by the nature itself in the black-lipped oyster. The
colours possibilities are ahead of the control of the farmers doing the
oyster farming. However, few oyster farming theories suggest that the trace
elements present in the water where the oyster grows might be the reason for
varied body colours and overtones.
Shape : It is first and fore most characteristic of the pearls
that ought to be studied by the buyer at the time of the purchase. There are
five distinctive shapes of the Tahitian pearls.
Round - This shape had, is and always shall be most in demand. It
is completely round sphere with diameter variation less than 2%. Perfect
round shapes are procured rarely.
Semi-round - It is also round but a little imperfect in shape. The
diameter variation rate varies from 2 -5 %. It is also known as off round or
near round. To differentiate between round and semi-round shape, roll the
pearl on the flat tabletop. If it rolls straight in one direction then it is
round and if it deviates from the straight line it is semi round in shape.
Semi-baroque - This shape is not round but has as a minimum of one
axis of rotation so that it could spin on a flat surface. It is could be
found in four different shapes viz. pear, teardrop, oval or button.
Circled - This shape contains idiosyncratic bands, streaks, rings
or grooves perpendicular to an axis of rotation of the pearl. These rings
cover more than 75% of the pearl's surface. Out of the total harvested
cultured pearls this shape accounts for 30%.
Baroque - It is always irregular that consist of no symmetry. It
cannot be spin at all as it does not have any axis of rotation.
Price : Price is ascertained from the surface quality, size,
colour and shape. It decreases from quality A to quality D. The cost
increases with the increase in the size of the pearl. Slight increases of
minor 1mm can also make the cost increase drastically. Body colours with
overtones are priced more than the pearls with plain body colour. Finally
the perfect round is priced maximum and minimum for baroque shape. Black
pearls are very precious and thus are expensive. However, it could meet all
the budget restrictions. For example when it comes to reduce the price with
the compromise in one of the characteristic then it should be shape. Shape
is important but it does not affect the durability but only the look.
Further, when all the pearls are strung together in the string the shape of
the single pearl is not even noticeable. In case of jewelries holding single
pearl the defect in the shape is veiled at the back and covered with the
metal.
Occurrence : Pearls are produced in the womb of black lipped oyster. It is
the miraculous amalgamation of animal and mineral cultivated by man. The
farming of oyster requires stacks of care like when weather is stormy it
needs to be engrossed in the lagoon where as during the summers it needs to
be taken to the cooler place. The farmers coddle oysters as their own
babies. Oysters are grown for minimum two years. At the time of harvesting
barely 30% of the oysters cultured generate a pearl. The by-products of
cultured pearl harvesting are mother-of-pearls as well as Keshi and Mabe.
These are widely used for decorative purpose and jewelry like earrings,
pendants, rings and broaches.
Imitations : Artificially black colored pearls are created but
they lack the natural bright colour and high luster as that of original
pearls. However, to produce something identical to Tahiti black cultured
pearl is very difficult. To shun every single chance of getting befooled,
make the purchase only from the truthful and reputable dealers.
Precautions : Black pearls are the most delicate darlings. In
order to enjoy wearing pearls for the lifetime several precautions and care
is required. Woman those who sweat a lot should avoid wearing pearl jewelry
on a regular basis and must wear it occasionally. The acid present in the
sweat ruins the durability, luster and shape of the pearl. It should be
protected from vinegar, lemon juice, baking soda, cleaning agents like
detergents or soap etc. and cosmetics such as hair sprays, perfumes and
bleaches etc. Exposure to excessive heat could dry it off and make it prone
to splits/cracks. Always ensure to remove it before going for a swim or
wearing the dress made up rough fabric like Shetland wool etc.
At the time of taking off the pearl jewelry always clutch the shank or
metal part instead of the pearl. This would evade the probability of
loosening of pearl from the jewelry. After the use the pearls must be
cleaned with the damped cloth. Once in a while it can be dipped in the
slight salty water and polished with the drop of olive oil to maintain its
luster. Home ultrasonic cleaner, steam cleaning and toothbrush are
absolutely no-no for cleaning. Finally it must be stored in a separate
jewelry pouch made up of soft cloth. Storing in any jewelry box is not
recommendable as after some time due to lack of air pearls could get dry and
be prone to breaks. Pearl necklace must not be worn when the string is soggy
because then string gets dirty soon and cleaning it is very difficult. With
the purpose to avoid the likelihood of loosing the necklace always restrung
it once in the year. These precautions would enable you to retain the pearl
and its jewelry.
Hard work, patience and utmost care gets paid off when mesmerizing black
pearl is obtained. Farmers pamper black lipped oysters like infants then the
amazing pearls comes into existence so we who own these pearls must continue
to take care of these pearls like our own babies. Exquisite jewelries are
created using it that makes the women look elegant and gorgeous. So be a
good caretaker and look beautiful always.
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